Sandex for deck paint.

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scruff

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Hi,

I used Sandex exterior masonry to paint my decks at the start of the season and it's now flaking off.

I used this paint on a previous boat which did not suffer this fate, not to mention the good reviews on here.

Has anyone else used Sandex this season and how has it fared?

The deck has been (I think) painted previously. My preparation was the same as on my last boat; clean decks with freshwater, dry and brush any remaining dust off the decks when dried.

The paint however has not bonded. I'm not sure if the paint has changed it's formula? or if I have just received a bad batch.

Has anyone else used this paint this season?
 
Unfortunately not all paints are compatable and if not will throw the new coat off. another common problem is when painting decks during the cooler months you can get a microscopic layer of moisture/ condensation which is virtually undetectable and will cause detachment at a later date. As for faulty batch ,I doubt it as these products are manufactured in thousand litre + batches and faulty batches are as about as rare as hens teeth! It pays to carry out a trial area first especially if you don't know what is on the deck.
 
I have repainted my cockpit and side decks this year, but I am still using the same large tin I bought 4 years ago, so not a new batch. :D

I think it is amazing stuff for non slip decks, cheap, works well and comes in a huge range of colours.
 
Leighb said:
I have repainted my cockpit and side decks this year, but I am still using the same large tin I bought 4 years ago, so not a new batch. :D

I think it is amazing stuff for non slip decks, cheap, works well and comes in a huge range of colours.
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+1, again about 3 years old, so not a new batch, but I used Dulux Textured Weathersheild, mainly 'cos B&Q could mix any colour to suit. Not lifting or flaking at all.
 
Cleaning

Do you guys have any problems keeping your surfaces clean?

I find it very hard to get grime out my sandex surfaces
 
There are various grades of Sandtex, the one I use which is perfectly good for non-slip is their Fine Masonry Paint. I would imagine that the coarser finishes might be more difficult to clean. The Fine grade is OK, I just use a deck brush and some of the usual deck wash detergent type of thing.
 
Just in the process of gradually repainting my deck etc with Sandtex Ultra Smooth. Needs a good couple of coats to get a deep colour (especially if you're changing the original colour like I am)

Pretty forgiving paint to be honest and applies very well..
 
Hi - what sort of preparation did you do? I hope to paint an old painted (weathered one pack) grp deck soon with Sandtex and should be grateful for any tips. Thanks, John

Fire99 said:
Just in the process of gradually repainting my deck etc with Sandtex Ultra Smooth. Needs a good couple of coats to get a deep colour (especially if you're changing the original colour like I am)

Pretty forgiving paint to be honest and applies very well..
Click to expand...
 
Amazon8mCat said:
Hi - what sort of preparation did you do? I hope to paint an old painted (weathered one pack) grp deck soon with Sandtex and should be grateful for any tips. Thanks, John
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I used Dulux masonary paint, but I'm the prep will be the same. I washed the decks well, then sanded and wiped down with meths to remove dust, grease etc. Then rollered the paint on - 2 coats. I used reasonable quality masking tape as required to save lifting and replacing for each coat. Presently just requires a good clean.
 
I shall probably use a detergent bio/fungicide solution to clean off old lichen stains (ie from fungus/algal growth) first. Then wash off any residues with clean water +/- rain! After that I shall sand any surfaces that do not appear to be well weathered. If dusty might consider a stabiliser but otherwise will wash off again. Will probably not mask off except where abutting timber e.g. rubbing strips/toe rail and lockers etc since I hope to use something which will cover both the treadmaster and the strips of grp deck between.

Any further advice much appreciated, especially with respect to use of masonry paints such as Weathershield and Sandtex (untextured - I have the Treadmaster on already). Thanks for responding, John
 
Useful message recieved from 'OldHarry':

Most of the better masonry paints (i.e not cheapo Homebase type which is too soft and wears quickly) seem to stick to pretty well anything. The criteria on the tin is that the surface is firm and dry, so a good wirebrushing will probably do most of it. I have always used it over other paints. Its water based acrylic resin so doesnt seem to react with any oil based paint. I would have thought it would stick to GRP - I had no end of trouble getting it off when I got some direct on Gel coat where it wasnt needed and let it dry. However I would have thought a good rub down with say 120g to take any surface gloss, and remove any wax/silicone polishes that may have been used would be a wise precaution, as well as keying it sufficiently for the paint to stay put. That old red treadmaster looks 'orrid when it has weathered badly, doesnt it? It too should take the Sandtex or whatever if its still serviceable other than the fading. Its not fun to get it off either, as the glue used to fasten it doesnt respond to anything short of real brutality! Hope that helps.
 
From what I have read on other fora, good quality masonry paints can be easier to apply, usually last longer, are tougher, have a greater variety of colours available and have better/kinder anti skid properties for bare feet than many alternatives. However, I suspect that the main reason is that they are much cheaper since they are produced in vast quantities for the building trade! I have yet to try one of these but intend to because, hopefully, it will last longer and cover both the old Treadmaster and the exposed strips of grp deck between ... and I have already spent far too long painting during my present refit and need to get our boat back in the water next season - also still a lot more painting to do besides the 35 sq m of deck!

Galago said:
It may sound silly but ... what's wrong with real deck paint?
Click to expand...
 
Galago said:
It may sound silly but ... what's wrong with real deck paint?
Click to expand...

Deck paint £20+ for 750ml. Slow to dry, and needs careful prep if its going to stay put. Not particularly durable. No real choice of colour: just one shade in each.

Masonry Paint from £22 for 2.5 litres (that covers a lot of deck!) Dries in less than 1 hour, goes on pretty well anything and stays there. Durable (except the real cheapo stuff). Huge range of colour shades in some makes (Dulux, Albany etc)
 
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