KevO
Well-Known Member
I had been asking the same question on the hustler owners association forum but not one response... I would have thought others would have been down the same road. 
Saloon windows replacement questions
- Thread starter Boo2
- Start date
john newton
New Member
I can only share my own experience of my old Moody 36. I replaced the saloon windows with 8mm polycarbonate after hearing of a sister ship which suffered a window broken by a big sea. It is, of course much stronger than acrylic. I used 3M 5200 sealant and dish type washers under the bolts heads fastened through to the original inner part of the original aluminium framed windows. (the idea is to allow for slight movement as temperature changes) I had only very minor problem with leaks which seem to sometimes find a way via the bolts. Polycrabonate eventually goes slightly opaque. If I were doing it again I would increase the number of bolts, shortening the spacing from about 10mm to 6 or 7mm. I would think hard about using polycarbonate again, maybe use thicker acrylic. Of course the strength needed is related to the size of the opening. The fore and aft windows on my barky are much smaller and I used acrylic for them.
Sign makers have all the materials and cutting expertise you need, especially to bevel the edges. Drill bits need to be appropriately ground with a different angle than used for metal and the sign maker will give you the details.
Sign makers have all the materials and cutting expertise you need, especially to bevel the edges. Drill bits need to be appropriately ground with a different angle than used for metal and the sign maker will give you the details.
KevO
Well-Known Member
Ok, my replacement windows finally arrived...
They are to be fitted with stainless interscrews. So... 2 questions...
Firstly, what sealant should be used to seal the alu frame to the GRP? Technautic just said 'use a non-hardening mastic'. Any genuine recommendations please?
Secondly, as can be seen from the bottom pic of the original windows I posted earlier,
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3756291&postcount=13
the frames suffered from galvanic action in the vicinity of the stainless screws. Is there anything I could do when fitting the new screws to help prevent that in the future? Dip the screws in summat or whatever?
They are to be fitted with stainless interscrews. So... 2 questions...
Firstly, what sealant should be used to seal the alu frame to the GRP? Technautic just said 'use a non-hardening mastic'. Any genuine recommendations please?
Secondly, as can be seen from the bottom pic of the original windows I posted earlier,
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3756291&postcount=13
the frames suffered from galvanic action in the vicinity of the stainless screws. Is there anything I could do when fitting the new screws to help prevent that in the future? Dip the screws in summat or whatever?
misterg
Well-Known Member
Arboseal GZ butyl tape (as above)
Is there anything I could do when fitting the new screws to help prevent that in the future? Dip the screws in summat or whatever?
Tef-gel or Duralac (but this is yellow
)
KevO
Well-Known Member
Thanks misterg... sorry I missed the previous reference to Arboseal GZ 
It sounds ideal as does the tef-gel.
It sounds ideal as does the tef-gel.
misterg
Well-Known Member
xeitosaphil
Well-Known Member
Ok, my replacement windows finally arrived...
They are to be fitted with stainless interscrews. So... 2 questions...
Firstly, what sealant should be used to seal the alu frame to the GRP? Technautic just said 'use a non-hardening mastic'. Any genuine recommendations please?
Secondly, as can be seen from the bottom pic of the original windows I posted earlier,
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3756291&postcount=13
the frames suffered from galvanic action in the vicinity of the stainless screws. Is there anything I could do when fitting the new screws to help prevent that in the future? Dip the screws in summat or whatever?
Having replaced my four windows , 2x Saloon windows- 2 x heads windows both supplied by Houdini with toughened Glass Pre bent to shape, I bedded them using MARINESEAL 033 SYNTHETIC RUBBER BEDDING AND GLAZING SEALANT
http://www.marinemastics.com/marine-seal-033/marine-seal-033.html
This is two part putty which is mixed in equal parts to form a constant colour. It is a cold temperature component which when mixed forms a solid rubber component. It gives plenty of time to fix all those inter screws which in my case amounted to about 30 per window. Excess can be removed with a sharp blade or knife/ chisel either at the time or once cured.
I also replace the Fore Hatch 12mm Perspex supplied by Hadlow Windows, for my lewmar Hatch ( only place I could get blue tinted ). They also routered a new opening in it for a new Vent, as recommended by them I used Their glazing tape and Abosil sealant which made it very easy and a clean process.
Can recommend both companies, if not for two different purposes.
No company connection just a satisfied customer of both sets of products
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ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
Kev, windows look NICE. Were they expensive (need I ask)Ok, my replacement windows finally arrived...
They are to be fitted with stainless interscrews. So... 2 questions...
Firstly, what sealant should be used to seal the alu frame to the GRP? Technautic just said 'use a non-hardening mastic'. Any genuine recommendations please?
Secondly, as can be seen from the bottom pic of the original windows I posted earlier,
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3756291&postcount=13
the frames suffered from galvanic action in the vicinity of the stainless screws. Is there anything I could do when fitting the new screws to help prevent that in the future? Dip the screws in summat or whatever?
KevO
Well-Known Member
£87.50 each (inc interscrews etc) plus VAT IIRC. Toughened glass rather than some polymer. Took about 6 weeks to get them back after I sent them the old ones to use as templates.
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yoda
Well-Known Member
One of the original questions was about the colour of the window. If it's not too late do NOT go for a blue tint - it's horrible when below. A very light smoke tint if any at all.
Yoda
Yoda