Saildrive prop removal

Bav34

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I have a Volvo saildrive and need to remove the prop to replace the anode. There is a cone aft of the prop. I have undone a large ss bolt that goes fore and aft but am now not sure if the cone pulls or screws off. I have tried both (gently) but it is confusing as there is a transverse hole going through the cone = gearbox in reverse and screwdriver through hole ... no luck, but there are alse numerous cut outs on the cones face by the prop which look as tho' it's a two screwdriver lever job. Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
If you've removed the bolt already, the cone should screw off anti-clockwise..... using a screwdriver through the hole whilst holding the prop.
 
Sometimes they hang up on the plastic washer thats behind the cone, just get a big sturdy screwdriver, but watch your knuckles on the prop blades for when it suddenly lets go, speaking from experience here!
 
Just removed mine and after the s/s bolt was removed, I placed a piece of timber between the prop and the ground so I could gently tap the large screwdriver inserted through the hole in the cone. Did not need much of a tap for the cone to become lose.
 
After the locking cap screw is out the cone unscrews anti-clockwise i.e. normal RH thread. It needs a fair bit of torque. Up till last year - when I fitted the Kiwi - I used a DIY wrench made of two lengths of 50mm angle iron about 1m long either side of the cone with a coach bolt connecting them through the hole. With a bit of wood stuck in the jaws of the rope cutter to stop the prop shaft turning, that started it quite easily - less than 20 kg.m (c. 200 Nm).
 
On one boat I always had problem with anode screws coming loose (phillip head) even though also used loctight.
I think the anode was corroding around the ss screw thereby reducing the tension in the screw. I bought a number of alen key countersunk set screws and have used these since then and never had the problem again.
 
I experienced the same difficulties removing the propellor cone, but thanks to the above advice succeded. The anode hadn't been changed for a couple of years so it needed a lot of force to get the cone moving - I think it would be worth undoing & retightening the cone every year to avoid it ceasing up, even if the anode doesn't need changing.
 
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