Saildrive garter replacement advice

ruvane

Well-Known Member
Joined
24 Nov 2005
Messages
190
Location
Ashkelon Marina
www.techno-laser.com
I have a Volvo MD11 with a saildrive and am a little concerned about the rubber seal between saildrive and hull.

Where can I get a new one and roughly what do they cost?

What's involved in replacing it?

The metal ring that sits on the outside rim of the rubber where it meets the hull looks shot. Should this also be replaced?

TIA.
 
Sail drive rubbers should be replaced about every 5 years depending on model and type, you may also have an insurance problem if has not been replaced as recommended by the manufacturer.

You will have to lift out to replace it, have a look at the bolt ring, most can be blasted and re-painted.

Parts are available over the phone, not cheap, look out for wires than run between the two layers of rubber to warn of a leak between the two.

andavagoodweekend......
 
I think from memory Volov spedicfy every 7 years, not 5. The job isn't so much complex as time consuming. The boat I had with a 120S/2002 required the engine to be tilted forward such that removal was the easiest course of action - took about 8 hours to replace over several days, allowing for re-rusting and repainting the metal ring.
 
Thanks for the replies.

Do the saildrive/engine/gearbox need to be disconnected? What I mean is that can the new seal be installed without dismantling the entire drive train? Sort of slipping it over the end of the saildrive and then up the leg?

Thanks.
 
No - afraid not.

The engine needs to be disconnected from the sail drive leg which then needs to be lifted out of the boat.

The saildrive then needs to be split in 2 as the seal is clamped between the upper and lower parts of the saildirve.

As others have said - diffculty is largely dependent on access around the engine - we were lucky when we did ours a couple of years ago.

Estimate a day to get it out - then some time to take it home clean up etc etc split saildrive and insert new seal - then another day to put it all back together could be longer or shorter depending on Access.

Keyparts will sell you a replacement kit for c £120 ish
Also remember you may need new gasket to fit drive back to engine

I probably have some notes on the job if you want to PM me - also there was an old PBO article that walks through the process

Good luck
 
All correct advice so far but unlike me dont forget to get the oil out of the engine before before seperating S/D otherwise you end up with a bilge full. Also worth noting the diaphrams have a date stamp on them so dont get fobbed off with one thats been sitting on a shelf too long. The next owner might know about it and will think he will have to renew earlier than necessary.

Its not too difficult. Best of luck
 
If you have limited access as the leg has to go upwards and rearwards to get the propshaft round the bend as it were, you can drain the leg and pull out the prop shaft and bearing carrier then the leg can go vertically upwards. lot easier than it sounds, should be able to do it in 5-6 hrs.
 
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