Saildrive diaphragm

boatmike

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You know the things, that pesky bit of rubber that Volvo say should be changed every 7 years. ***** Selling Peregrine the surveyor has obviously commented that the damn thing is 10 years old and should be replaced and the buyer is looking for the inevitable reduction in price. Its an MD2010 with a C120 leg. Has anyone had one of these replaced recently and can give a guide as to cost please? (assuming vessel is out of the water already)
 
You know the things, that pesky bit of rubber that Volvo say should be changed every 7 years. ***** Selling Peregrine the surveyor has obviously commented that the damn thing is 10 years old and should be replaced and the buyer is looking for the inevitable reduction in price. Its an MD2010 with a C120 leg. Has anyone had one of these replaced recently and can give a guide as to cost please? (assuming vessel is out of the water already)
Bits are around £200. Fitting 8-10 hours depending on access in the boat. So £600 typically for a Volvo dealer to do. Sensible to have oil changed and engine drained and refilled (water and oil) at the same time. DIY usually needs 2 people for some part of the proceedings, but is a steady "out one day, back in the next" job.
 
Bits are around £200... oil changed and engine drained ... at the same time. DIY usually needs 2 people for some part of the proceedings, but is a steady "out one day, back in the next" job.

I paid £139.50 for the Diaphragm Kit from KeyPart; for my 120S the part number is 21389074.

Agree with time-scale, but we had a bit of cleaning up to do on the gasket face. Don't try to do it without shifting the engine as far forward as the user manual tells you, it is necessary.
 
Agree with all the above, I did one on a 2030 last week. I did not rush one bit and easily had it done in 2 days. The only help was hauling the engine out and then replacing it, plus a push from beneath with the saildrive. I did my own on a VP 2003 single handed, but at my leisure. To save the mess as much as anything, tapered wooden bungs can be put into the respective holes to stop the freshwater coolant being lost. It will save a lot of mopping up.
 
I had mine done by Motortech of Haslar Marina a couple of years ago and it came to a little under £900 with labour and the dreaded VAT. It was eight years old and there was some indication that cooling water was creeping across the seal towards the gearbox oil section of the leg.
 
Incidentally when I changed mine last year it was 17 years old. Looked as good as new.

Changed mine last week, also 17 years old, looked a bit sorry for itself on the underside.

I think the biggest problem is the zinc ring that holds it down, mine had a bit of corrosion on the underside, leaving a sharper edge to wear into the rubber.

I won't be touching it again this side of 2032!
 
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