Saildrive anode advice.

[Daydream believer]

I have a Brunton anode in my hand right now & your point about them dropping off is valid. there is very little meat at the screws. i am looking at it & wondering if there is any mileage in drilling a small hole through the anode just level with the underside of the head of the fixing screws. Then passing a loop of seizing wire over through the hole , over the head of one bolt & back through the hole. Then seize it to the head of the other bolt. I could get a 5mm washer under the heads of the bolts. the bolts need to be be held with locktight because as the anode wears they become slack anyway.
Would the seizing wire react with the anode? would it hold the anode in place? Would the anode still work even if a little slack?
An alternative idea is to get a hacksaw & cut a slot in the side of the anode just where a washer would go. Then insert a large SS washer into the slot so that the screw had a greater bearing surface to grip the anode.
Any comment?

 

[nortada]

I am very aware of stray currents and do not connect to shore power if I am away from the boat. For the month in question the boat was on a pontoon in Lymington.
I will try the trick of shielding the Anode fixing holes with some kind of paint. Interesting idea as they are an early point of failure as you say.

Shielding holes has worked for many years for me. Without any marked reduction in the efficiency of the anode protecting the vitals.

 

[captainboo]

Shielding holes has worked for many years for me. Without any marked reduction in the efficiency of the anode protecting the vitals.

I paint Hammerite Special Metals primer around the bolt holes and a narrow ring around the base of the anode where it meets the propellor hub on my Featherstream for the same reason. Works well with no loss of metal from these areas.