Sail slide mast track mods

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Ardenfour

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I'm currently having my mainsail converted from bolt rope to slides. The mast track immediately above the gooseneck is widened to accept the bolt rope, with a feeder type affair screwed on where the slot narrows. My immediate problem is how do I close off the wide part of the slot so the slides don't all fall out when the sail is lowered? The wider slot extends to about 350mm above the gooseneck. I cant slide the gooseneck upwards as the old system incorporated a through the mast roller reefing mechanism, so boom position is fixed. I anticipate screwing some sort of plates on, but how do I get the edges flush with the existing groove so the slides don't catch?

Ideas gratefully accepted, thanks.
 
Yoou could try bashing the bent out part of the track in the mast and this may get it close enough to suit. Failing that as you say you will have to attach plates each side to reduce the gap. Also facilitates putting the sliders in. So attach plates with screws into a tapped hole. I think careful filing will reduce sharp edges and minimise sliders sticking. I have always stuck with bolt rope in track as it is much easier to reef and unreef with bolt rope. But that is up to you. good luck olewill
 
Thanks, I'd just remembered it's called a 'mast gate', googling that threw lots of ideas up. I couldn't simply hammer the slot though, mine's is cut away rather than folded.
 
The simple way is to drill a hole and use a pin on a lanyard to stop the slides falling out. A mast gate is the usual way and you may find one of the rigging or mast suppliers has one to fit your profile or you could make one.
 
after you drill a hole in the mast groove , for a pin , it is better to run an 8mm tap into it so a set screw can be fitted ,
this is how z spars masts are done .
 
I think i understand your problem, but their are lots of different sorts of mast extrusion. Some have a track as sort of add on outside the main profile of the mast and others have the track inside the main profile of the mast, if that makes sense.
The solution to your problem will be different in each case so a picture would be a great help.
Failing a picture, if you put "yacht mast sections" into google and look at the images you could point us at the one that matches your profile.

Good luck
 
Selden do a mmast track insert that's about 350mm long .you can shorten it.But also bear in mind where you need to exit slides when reefing if not on a lanyard system at the lower luff.PM me for part number
Cindy
 
Yep, I did exactly that and so needed a mast gate. I looked around for suitable alu extrusion and did a stop gap version using al angle from B&Q. Hacksaw off most of one web and file smooth. Then drill and tap through into mast section. I had to bash a bit of a curve into the wider web so it could snuggle up bettter to the curve of the mast. Think it was an M5 or M6 tap.
 
I saw a nice looking DIY job on a website. It was constructed from two sections of aluminium carpet cover strip, done with nothing more than a hacksaw, a file and a drill. I was toying with doing the same when my mast came down in a storm and gave me the somewhat expensive opportunity to buy a new mast designed for slides!

PS. Being able to quickly drop the sail and tie it to the boom, avoiding having to stuff it all into the cabin out of the way is a big improvement for single handed sailing.

Found it http://www.beneteau235.com/f235_mods-mast_gate.htm
 
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I have the same problem on Carousel. The sail is held up above the large bolt rope type slot by a bit of line so the sail cover doesn't fit. I have to do a lot of buggering about to drop the main sail luff so I can put the sail cover on when I'm leaving the boat.

I have a couple of bits of carpet strip cut and ready to fit when I get some knurled knobs to use as fixings. And a suitable tap, and a drill, and the time.

The gate on Chiron's Proctor mast was 1.5 times the length of a slider and could be removed for reefing but the sail stowed neatly on the boom. I want to emulate that.
 
Furthermore....presumably you need to put in eyelets up the luff as well? I got the whackers and SS eyelets from Point North. With my arrangement the gate won't take any stress from the slugs so important to place the eyelet above the reefing cringle in a suitable place.
 
Ardenfour said:
Agree 're pin. Problem is the opening extends 350mm above the gooseneck so the slides would all bunch that height above the boom
Click to expand...
I fitted a long split pin, 4 or 5mm diameter from memory, and if it is slightly splayed it stays in position - mine has never come out unless I pull the lanyard, and when slab reefing I have to have 2 or 3 sliders drop down under the split pin so the cringle gets over the hook. Works for me.
 
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Thought I'd post an update and some pics of my mast gate efforts. Gold coloured anodised alloy carpet trim, £2.99. In 40 years it should fade to match the mast...
Very little strain on it, even when reefed, so self tappers seem adequate, and only two screws to release the slides to remove the sail.
 
Ardenfour said:
Thought I'd post an update and some pics of my mast gate efforts. Gold coloured anodised alloy carpet trim, £2.99. In 40 years it should fade to match the mast...
Very little strain on it, even when reefed, so self tappers seem adequate, and only two screws to release the slides to remove the sail.
Click to expand...

Nice one! Exactly the same effect as the stainless gate closing plates on my mast which look original (1979).

Yoda
 
When I converted from boltrope to slides the mast manufacturer (Z Spars) provided a zinc diecast, which fitted into the narrow slot and filled the wide slot and went the bottom of the slot at the other. From memory the piece was kept in place by one recessed self-tapper.
The current mast, just has a self-locking stop - the widened slot just being sufficiently tall to easily insert the batten-end slugs.
 
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