safty advice needed, need to remove fuel sender from tank

markcw

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Need to remove my fuel sender in the fuel tank as our last outing the gauge was showing 3/4 full but we had filled the tank to the top filler cap. Would also like to do some maintainence on the the fuel pick tube and mesh filter, have never removed or checked this area since having the boat.


Any advice on safty issues i may incounter, have to admit worried a little as exposing the top of the fuel tank which will allow vapours to escape, i think i have about 3/4 of petrol in tank remaining, but unsure because of the gauge accuracy.:confused:

Will have extingusher ready and battery discounected, any othe rthings i should think of before doing the work.
 
Need to remove my fuel sender in the fuel tank as our last outing the gauge was showing 3/4 full but we had filled the tank to the top filler cap. Would also like to do some maintainence on the the fuel pick tube and mesh filter, have never removed or checked this area since having the boat.


Any advice on safty issues i may incounter, have to admit worried a little as exposing the top of the fuel tank which will allow vapours to escape, i think i have about 3/4 of petrol in tank remaining, but unsure because of the gauge accuracy.:confused:

Will have extingusher ready and battery discounected, any othe rthings i should think of before doing the work.

Interesting a nearly empty tank has far more fuel vapours (which is the major risk) than a full tank... but to be honest I know if I was doing the job my natural instinct would be to get the tank as empty as possible....

Just do the job in a well ventilated area.. which most boats inhabit naturally, disconnect engine battery & don't use any power tools or even electric screwdrivers as they can cause a spark. If you need to check sender unit or the like prior to fitting back in the tank, seal tank opening and test well away from tank. As you have already planned, fire extinguisher able to extinguish fuel fires at the ready is a good precaution.
 
I remember changing a fuel pump (in the tank with the sender) on a car was a nervous experience.

As said, disconnect battery or batteries completely.

Knowing a fire extinguisher might not be good on a petrol fire, I instead had a well soaked large towel handy should the unthinkable happen, the same priciple as putting out a chip pan fire, carefully lower a very wet towel onto it.

I did mine with a full tank. No option to wait for it to run down as the car wan't going anywhere until it had a new fuel pump.
 
Likewise, have replaced the fuel pump and sender in a BMW. Rubber mallet to hit the screwdriver to remove the locking circle, then pulled the whole unit out. Once out, lay a towel over the opening to stop things getting in and also stop the vapour coming out.

Explosions need Oxygen, and with the tank full, there would be little to any in the tank.

Ventilation is key to prevent any build up of vapour outside the tank ;-)
 
Just as importantly, be sure that everything is sealed when you are finished. Petrol leaks are just as much a concern.

Good luck!

Cheers,
Paul
 
Transplant done and patient ok

All the precautions taken, first, sender came out easier than thought, first thing i noticed was the cork float was very heavy for cork and incrusted with resin from the petrol, also the tank was full to the top of petrol.
Pulled the float off the shaft and weighed it on my mini scales, :eek: 38grms total, so ive been up to my local auto shop and various other outlets and have managed to get and exact replacement cork float, new float on scales weighend in 8.2 grms:D:D

After cleaning all the connections and rubber seals placed it back on the fuel tank and waaaaa I now have nearly a full tank a snige under the full mark, before the work i had between 1/2 and 3/4 tank of fuel by the needel gauge, now needel is also rock steady, before the needle would flicker and move about

So all in all 2.5 hours of back breaking work;);) cost of float £2.00 and i have possible saved £20 in fuel:D. and now know exactly what fuel i have in my tank.

Thing is im slowly ticking off all my jobs that i had planned for the winter what will i do when the cold/wet weather arrives, oh well have to polish here again, its hard haveing a boat.

Thanks all for reply, have to admit very nerve racking:(:(,

mark
 
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well done, nice when a plan comes together!

..I have a similar issue, my tank gauge goes to empty when I still have 1/2 a tank... your job has got me thinking that is a job I should tackle... at least with diesel its a smaller risk!
 
yeh really glad ive done it now, very satisfying when it goes right, which is not allways the case.

Amazed how heavy the old cork float was, realy saturated with petrol and resis
 
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In the good old days before health & safety was even a glint in some beaurocrats eye. The BSS scheme had just been invented and stated all petrol fuel systems had to be pumped not gravity fed. All tank outlets had to come from the top of the tank. Slipper launches and Freemans particularly needed modifying. This was a Slipper launch. Standard procedure was drain tank put fuel in staff cars. Take tank from boat. Place tank on marina side leave a hose pipe running in tank all weekend. Monday morning check there is no fuel on marina surface drain water from tank. Take tank to workshop light oxyacetylene welder and pass in front of filler as final test before welding. Well this one wasn’t empty enough it launched itself into the air took out all the overhead lights and landed back on the bench. It had been wedge shaped it was now the shape of an overstuffed cushion. All very shaken all that was left to do was advise the owner the tank was beyond repair and required replacement. Even we in our naivety changed our procedures, be very careful with petrol!!
 
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