S1- S1G conversion

Graham_Wright

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I was looking at doing this a while back, but the instructions I found referenced a part that was obsolete, with the replacement also being obsolete and a further iteration or two as well.

If you did it recently, what gyro (or "gyro" :) ) did you use, and where did you get it?

Cheers,

Pete
 
I was looking at doing this a while back, but the instructions I found referenced a part that was obsolete, with the replacement also being obsolete and a further iteration or two as well.

If you did it recently, what gyro (or "gyro" :) ) did you use, and where did you get it?

Cheers,

Pete

……ebay. Bit shocked as I was expecting a "round" thing and when it (a Kionix) arrived in a slim Jiffy bag, I was concerned.
 
I have one that I have built and then removed when I upgraded to an SPX 30.
The unit is potted and thus totally waterproof. It requires +5V instead of 12V that can be wired to the rudder reference instead of it own RED pin.

You can have it for £50 including UK shipping.
 
I have one that I have built and then removed when I upgraded to an SPX 30.
The unit is potted and thus totally waterproof. It requires +5V instead of 12V that can be wired to the rudder reference instead of it own RED pin.

You can have it for £50 including UK shipping.

What I bought (and what is now on ebay offer) is a naked pcb with a flying lead that is installed within the case. There is/was a stand alone unit externally connected.
 
I have one that I have built and then removed when I upgraded to an SPX 30.
The unit is potted and thus totally waterproof. It requires +5V instead of 12V that can be wired to the rudder reference instead of it own RED pin.

You can have it for £50 including UK shipping.

Cheers, that's interesting. Presumably it goes on the external gyro connectors rather than the internal ones? What exactly is it? I thought the official Raymarine external gyro box had something to do with the compass as well?

Pete
 
Cheers - that's an official part, though, complete with "Raymarine Tax" :)

Fine if you want to do things by the book, but when the actual component is only a few quid (they're stamped out in their millions these days as smartphone tilt sensors) I object to paying hundreds of pounds for a very simple supporting PCB and a connector.

It's possible to hook up a chip yourself for a few quid, there are details on t'interweb if you Google. Or buy a plug'n'play rate gyro for about £100 here - http://www.ebay.es/itm/RAYMARINE-GYRO-S1-S2-S3-A-G-/251414816776
 
Seems easy and fairly cheap. Academic for me now anyway, as I added a Raymarine Smart Heading System about 7 years ago, to make MARPA more effective on my radar/plotter. It works well.
.
 
It's possible to hook up a chip yourself for a few quid, there are details on t'interweb if you Google.

Exactly, that was my point. But the instructions out there are a bit dated now, and the specific parts they refer to are hard to obtain. There are certainly viable alternatives, but it all started to get a bit complicated last time I tried to nail something down. Partly because the chips themselves are all surface-mount which I can't solder, and the breakout boards are increasingly using I2C instead of the 2.5v analogue standard, to make it easy to communicate with PICs and Arduinos etc.

Or buy a plug'n'play rate gyro for about £100 here - http://www.ebay.es/itm/RAYMARINE-GYRO-S1-S2-S3-A-G-/251414816776

Thanks a lot for that. Realistically the extra cost over DIY might be worth it to me for something I can just take out the packet and wire in :)

Pete
 
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