Rutland 503 wind generator problems

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gary3029

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I have a rutland 503 which for the past year has done a fantastic job at keeping two batteries topped up. The generator works through a proper controller. The problem is the batteries are now not charging. The fuse is ok and the control unit appears to be working ok. We are having good winds at present yet the readout does not go above 0.3. My one weakness in DIY is electrics!! How can I test output from generator to control unit? Control unit to batteries so I can try and locate problem.
Thanks
 
Since you say that electrics are not your strong point, could be that you don't actually have a problem at all. Taking your figure of '0.3' to mean 0.3 Amps then if the batteries are fully charged (which they would be if all is working well in the winter with no usage) then you would expect the current to fall right off to practically zero regardless of the wind - indeed, that's what the regulator does for you to prevent the generator from overcharging the battery.

But to be sure, we need to know a little bit more....especially what the battery voltage is when the current of 0.3A is flowing and whether you have been using the batteries or whether they have essentially been at rest unused and charged by the wind generator for some while before taking this reading.
 
When I say they are not my strong point I do have some understanding and there is a problem. The controller can be used to assess condition on both batteries. I have never seen the batteries show a recording below 12.5 .Through winter I have been working on the boat and run the heater from the battery and the genny tops them back up again. This is now not happening as one battery reads 10.0 and the other reads 11.4. This change was sudden. When there is no wind the read out will change from 0 to 0.3. There was a lot of wind the other day and output was 0.3 with batteries at 10.0 and 11.4 with no improvement to battery state
Thanks
 
"When there is no wind the read out will change from 0 to 0.3. There was a lot of wind the other day and output was 0.3 with batteries at 10.0 and 11.4 with no improvement to battery state" Are you saying that the maximum normal output is 0.3A? That is very, very low to expect it to keep a heater (presumably Eberspacher-type?) running for long. What you are describing sounds to me as though there is a load on the system that is keeping the battery volts low. The difference between 10 and 11.4 is one diode drop so it sounds as though there is something drawing current from the more discharged battery. You need to locate that load and disconnect it, then wait for the battery to charge. At 0.3A, if that is the maximum output, 10 hours will give only 3Ah. A 100Ah battery will take 100 hours to recharge (neglecting losses, etc. so nearer 130 hours in practice). Two 100Ah batteries will take twice as long. There is another issue with your system design in that you don't want that diode drop. There are ways round that but first lets solve the immediate problem.....

A) Is 0.3 Amperes the sort of maximum charge you get and would expect from this charger?

B) What loads are on, on the boat? What is the heater load and for how long?
 
The heater failed to start the other day that is how i knew there was a problem. For the past 2 year the system has worked fine. The heater comes on for 1 hour every morning, runs fine and then goes off. The service battery copes with this and the genny keeps the battery charged, the engine battery is also charged. Whilst out of the water have used both batteries to run the heater for a couple of hours when I am down there. This system has worked fine and we have had very strong winds. The failure was sudden so something has failed. It is still windy, the batteries are not charging and of course the heater won't run. There is no other electrical device switched on.
A No I would expect far greater than 0.3 amp charge dependent on wind . This is a proven system for my needs and has worked great...never had flat batteries before!!
B When I am not there the loads are nil. Heater will be used for a couple of hours when I am down there.
I need to know how to test if the problem is with the genny, the controller or the batteries.
Thanks
 
Do you have the Owner's Manual? If not, you can download it here....

Rutland 503 Owner's Manual

Can you tell me what the LEDs show? If you haven't got this type of charge regulator, which type have you got? Do you have the manaual for that? What does the manual say about testing?
 
Without actually seeing the setup it is difficult to give a definative answer. We still don't know what the 0.3 is, there is an assumption that it is amps but from your description it could just be a level on a scale!
However can I suggest that if you have a multimeter you could set it to a dc voltage setting of say 200 volts and then test across the input connections on your regulator. With a bit of wind blowing you should get a reading from the generator. This will at least tell you if the geny is working.
I am sorry but I am not sure what the votage should be but I would expect around 14-15volts minimum. I know that the manual for the 913 model states.

" When turning the windcharger is capable of generating votages in excess of the nominal voltage. Caution must be exercised at all times to avoid electric shock"

Marlec are very helpfull and can be contacted at. www.marlec.co.uk
Hope the above helps.
 
had a 503 for running continuously for 10 years and only upgraded to 913 as now almost knackered after 3 sets of bearings, 2 fans and other bits as outboard main engine (cat) which has low engine charging rate, not got the answer really to your problem but have you cheked the carbon brushes that pickup the alternator charge from 2 slip rings to the output wires. these are the 2 screws on the side, take them out and the brushes will come out it may be they are worn down and sticking in any carbon dust formed.

unles it is blowing a good 3/5 you will not see more than 1 amp but then the charge rate goes up quickly to 2/3 amps (would not like to be sailing if the charge rate gets up o 5 amps!

one thing I did learn about these is that if you put a voltmeter across the output terminals you will only see 9-11 volts and you will think how can this charge a 12v battery but it can and this is ok as the alternator output is a rectified sine wave and is really a series of humps that peak around 15v but your meter will read average voltage only. when the voltage exceeds the battery voltage you get charge and when not no charge. the charge is a series of pulses. pretty crude but seems to work in practice

another possiblity is that the regulator is not working and thinks the bateries are up to cut out level

would confirm that marlec staff are very helpful and a call to them will give you a good check list of things to try. best of luck
 
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