running new halyards

smeaks

smeaks

Well-Known Member
Joined
31 Aug 2003
Messages
729
Location
tyneside
Visit site
I am intending to replace the halyards. The mast is currently unstepped. I am launching on Sunday and now have the new halyards ready. Is it best to run the halyards with the mast down or up?

My intention is to sew the buisness end of the old halyard to the whipped end of the new to draw the halyard through and out of the mast foot. Is there a better method?

All advice gladly accepted with thanks!
 
I suggest sewing + tape. Sewing for security; tape to cover ends which might catch.

Replaced 2 halyards like this yesterday. Total time 10 mins.
 
Better to do it with the mast down as you can guide the lines into the sheath blocks But definitely stitch it then tape over to streamline the joint. If it does snag and come apart inside the mast it can become a major headache and saving a couple of minutes not sewing it is nothing to what it will take to sort out.
pete

to slow. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Good method ... plus ONE pass of tape over all to smooth it out for passage round sheaves, past obstructions like spreader brace inside mast etc.

I note another advocates tape on its own - that's fine with good free running gear - but sadly not all is like that and I like a more secure method !!
 
Self Amalgamating Tape only sticks to Self Amalgamating Tape. Electricians Tape sticks to everything except Electricians Tape.

You need Gaffer Tape. Gaffer Tape sticks oil to wet glass (slight exageration, but you get the idea). Tear off about 8" (200mm) and wrap it *lengthways* around the cord. If this will result in more than two turns, then trim the width first.

Gaffer Tape is also sold in the retail market as Gaffa [sic] Tape, and Duck [sic] Tape <shudder>.

Sewing as well is a good belt-and-braces approach.
 
Proper job is to have a loop spliced into the whipping so you just tie the mouse line to it and tape over the knot. Failing that, definitely sew it, five turns of strong whipping cord will be much stronger and wont get peeled off by some bracket or other. use a little soft tape to 'fair' the join if it looks like it might jam.
I might prefer to do it with the mast up, as the halyards will have a lot of friction when lying on each other, spreader brackets and what have you.
 
All my halyards have the loops whipped onto the ends. But I still prefer to sew and tape. Mainly because my halyards are still the same ones as when I bought the boat 10 yr ago. Ropes are fine - they get the wash-machine each winter, but whipping twine ? isn't so long-term for me to trust ...

Having tried feeding lines through a mast years ago - I do not intend to do it again !! My Ex was helping me till after some hours ... we ended up into evening still out there - she went off in huff vowing never to get involved in such silly things again !! We used bike chain, fencing wire, all the favourites that people advise.
 
My favourite weight for re-running halyards if lost from mast, is a whole load of m6 nuts threaded onto the mouse line.
And do it with the boat heeled so that the mouse slides down one side of mast without wrapping around other halyards etc
 
Spot on, and leave the whipping on the new halyard and whip all the running rigging with a loop. In the autum buy a big spool of braided fishing line (cheap as chips) to use as mouse line and remove all the running rigging leaving mouses line on over the winter.
 
Definately when mast down. Having run out of time and gone for doing it with mast up, stiched and taped and one of the genny halyards currently stuck........
 
Well, there you are roughly equal votes for mast up or down!

FWIW, I always do this as you are planning and have done so for about a dozen halyard changes. Providing that if it doesn't fit you don't force it, it works for me. BTW ours is 40' mast.
 
I used to race on a boat which had an unfortunate halyard chewing habit.

As a result we got pretty good at running new ones with the mast in place. The key to joining the mouse to the new halyard is to keep it thin enough to go through the blocks without compromising strength. I use a rolling hitch about 9 inches from the end of the halyard, then about 10-20 other hitches down to the end. Then tape that whole length.
Never had one fail yet....
 
I know with my mast and head sheaves ... the halyard size is prime size for the sheave. This leaves precious little spare to allow any knot, rolling hitch etc. to lay extra to halyard diameter - if it does - it sticks as it enters mast head.
I have to make sure that connection is "in front" of halyard end ... that only one thin wind of tape to fair in is used. Then it passes through relatively easily.
I've used cheap farmers line ... flat braid ... light 2, 4mm lines .. they all work as long as the connection is faired and supple enough to take the turns etc. without creating a ridge or obstruction in the connection.

Up or down ... down obviously gives you access to mast head to help feed ... but then increases chances of snagging the spreader brace bar inside mast.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top