Running aircon from 16A supply. More advice?

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On a previous thread http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=306828&highlight=dockpower there was a discussion whether it would be possible to run the aircon on my boat from a single 16A supply. The reason for this is that in Croatia, most shorepower supplies on the kind of berths I get given are 16A and 32A or bigger are like hen's teeth.
I was put in contact with a guy called Karl who used to work for Victron in the UK and who is now living in Croatia and a few days ago he inspected my boat. The first thing he did was to accurately measure the current draw of my existing Condaria aircon chiller unit. During the initial cooling phase, the chiller was consuming 30A. After the temp in the boat stabilised, the chiller was consuming 12-13A when the compressor was not running but when the compressor cut in, the current draw went up to 23-24A. He reckons this is not untypical for the size of chiller unit fitted. From this info, it is obvious why my aircon blows a 16A supply.
Karl is proposing 2 different solutions and I've been thinking about a possible 3rd solution and it is really this 3rd solution which I need to kick about a bit

Solution no 1 is to fit a 5kW Multiplus inverter http://www.energy-solutions.co.uk/victron_multiplus.html to power the aircon. However because the aircon consumes so much power in the cooling phase, Karl is suggesting that the gennie runs the aircon until it has stabilised after which the Multiplus is left on the 16A shore supply. However and this is the killer, the charging side of the Multiplus is apparently only charging at 2-3A so there will be a large net drain on the batteries, even under charge and even with the aircon in stable mode. Karl is also suggesting that the existing batteries (new last year) are changed for high capacity gel or lithium ion batteries. Because of the battery drain issue and because of the necessity to run the gennie until the aircon has stabilised, I have dismissed this solution.

Solution no 2 is to fit a Dockpower dual shorepower transformer (as I believe admillington had fitted to his new Sq58) http://www.energy-solutions.co.uk/dock_power.html. The problem is that the smallest Dockpower model is for 2 x 32A supplies but Karl believes that the manufacturer could supply a 2 x 16A unit (at what cost, I don't know yet). The attraction of the Dockpower is that it checks the voltage and phase of the 2 incoming supplies before it combines them. The problem with this solution is that in many Croatian marinas, you have to fight to get 1 x 16A supply let alone 2 supplies but this solution is something I'm investigating further

Solution no3 is my idea and something I haven't yet bounced off Karl. The essence of my problem is that I'm happy to run a gennie in the evening to power the aircon but I don't want to run the gennie all night. We like to run the aircon in the sleeping cabins at minimum speed all night during the height of summer because we don't like to have loads of open windows (yes we have screens) because SWMBO is paranoid about mozzies and I'm not particularly fond of them either. So what I was thinking was whether to fit a 2nd small chiller unit which could definitely run off a 16A shore supply, to provide chilled water to the 3 sleeping cabin airhandlers only at night. The problem is how to integrate this unit with the main chiller unit. Would we have to have a completely separate system of chilled water pipes and controls? Could the output from both chiller units be pumped into the pipes simultaneously to increase the total cooling capacity available for the boat, an attractive option for me because the main chiller unit does take quite a while to cool the boat. Would I need a separate seawater feed and exhaust circuit?

Any advice or comments appreciated
 
ref #3 I think your idea is best of lot. On all my last 3 boats i have had twin chillers. I run one when it is enough and shorepower is weak, and 2 when I have a 63amp or better supply. They share the same chilled water loop that runs through the boat, and at night i turn off the saloon and unused cabin air handlers then all the cooling "power" goes to the cabins where people want airco, exactly as you describe. I don't have any vlaves etc to operate to select one, two or both chillers, it all happens nicely automatically without valves I think

My two chillers share the same seawater supply and pump. It is all just parallel plumbed ie the seawater supply splits with a "Y" to feed both chillers

Job done
 
Mike,

I am collecting a Dock Power 2 x 32amp system from Energy-Solutions next Tuesday and expect to have the unit up and running within 3 weeks.

Rather that a self contained system I have gone for seperate units. (2 x Transformers + seperate controls) this just because of space problems.

Paul Holland their MD is most helpful and I am sure they could offer a 2 x 16amp system, but I understand your restictions.

We are fortunate as we have 2 x 32amp for each berth.

Doug
 
I have had to climb the learning curve with A/C and shore power as well.

We have 2 separate shore power circuits. One does the A/C, the other does everything else. The 11kw genny is happy to power everything.

Our A/C features a common sea water pump and 3 individual chiller units serving a number of air handlers.

I have devised a number of shore power connecting options for the 2 16 amp plugs. The most useful has been a twin 16 amp socket lead which plugs into a 32 amp supply. I have yet to have one made which plugs into 3 phase.

When using 2 separate 16 amp supplies there is no phasing problem because the systems are separate but occasionally the trip doesn't like the jolt when the A/C cuts in. Sometimes you can get away with just running 1 chiller.

In the main though most 16 amp supplies are happy with the A/C being plugged in.

As John said would happen when we first got the boat we do find ourselves running the generator more than before. The only problem is remembering to turn it off, it's too quiet :)

It is certainly all something I hadn't contemplated as we moved up in size.

Henry :)
 
I have devised a number of shore power connecting options for the 2 16 amp plugs. The most useful has been a twin 16 amp socket lead which plugs into a 32 amp supply. I have yet to have one made which plugs into 3 phase.


Henry :)

We have 2 x 32amp in-line sockets in a pig tail configeration connected to a 64amp 3 phase (Red) plug and also the same set up using a 125amp 3 phase plug (Yellow)

Both sockets are connected to ONE phase only with the screws of the other 2 phases removed and the cable entry to the pin rendered unusable.
 
I agree with solution 3 as the way to go. This assumes a stand alone compressor/system, with peak load 2.5 - 3 kW (give yourself a bit of headroom on the current draw). A car system tends to draw circa 4kW, and your combined bedroom volume would clearly be considerably more than a car, but if your main system has already pulled the temp down to 21C you are only asking it to maintain, and also not cope with solar load at night. It might struggle in the morning as the solar load builds up though.
 
Option 3 for me, simplest way of doing things. Also not depenadant on finding two 16amp sockets or a 32 amp one.
 
Aside from joining the general consensus on #3 (out of those three alternativess), may I ask you why exactly you're not even considering the easiest solution known to mankind, aka LBOK?
Aside from the safety concerns, which would be solved with the box suggested by BartW, why spend money for a problem that doesn't exist... :confused:
 
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Aside from joining the general consensus on #3 (out of those three alternativess), may I ask you why exactly you're not even considering the easiest solution known to mankind, aka LBOK?
Aside from the safety concerns, which would be resolved with the box suggested by BartW, why spend money for a problem which doesn't exist... :confused:

RTFQ MapisM, RTFQ. :D He is lucky to get one 16A socket in Croatia, let alone two of the suckers. You need 2 sockets to deploy LBOK
 
Ops, I did read quickly and missed that.
Weird, I never had that problem in Croatian marinas.
Anyway, if that's now so difficult, #3 it is, obviously. :)
 
One thing most people are unaware of is just how much the cooling water pumps draw.

Our old Sealine T51 took close to 20a for just the raw water cooling pump.
The aircon itself was far less of a problem.

Our current Princess and the old Sealine have only one raw water pump so it is on whenever any of the aircon systems are running.

I dont know how this fact helps you but keep it in the back of your mind. Might make a difference when considering option 3 - for example.
 
Our old Sealine T51 took close to 20a for just the raw water cooling pump.
Mike that doesn't stack up - it's about 6hp. That's a monster of a motor, and probably only available in 3 phase. You airco raw water motor ought to have been more likely 1hp or so
 
#3 sounds best. Maybe some of the following numbers help...

We have a 36,000 Btu Chiller which draws around 13A when running. As ever startup is the big issue which will draw upto 5 times as a short spike. Most good CB's will handle this. If i can't get a 32A then i split the chiller to one 16A feed & the air handlers & other stuff to a second, job done. However if the CB's are old (not type D or even B) & trip i can switch in a "Soft Start" unit which ramps the compressor in the chiller up slowly. This is magic & fixes the startup issue. I can just get away with the airhandlers & the chiller on a good 16A CB.


For night i took a different route & installed a seperate 5k Btu unit in the aft cabin which i can run from my 3Kw MultiPlus off my 1,100Ah batteries. It's ok for occasional use but would be a lot of battery cycling for daily use.

It sounds like a second chiller of say 24k Btu with maybe a soft start would leave enough Amps for your air handlers from a single 16A.

What is the total rating of the airhandlers you run at night? My 2 cabins have 6k units with 2 x 12k in the saloon.
 
RTFQ MapisM, RTFQ. :D He is lucky to get one 16A socket in Croatia, let alone two of the suckers. You need 2 sockets to deploy LBOK
Hang on a minute.
On second thought, also option #2 requires 2 sockets, I reckon (which btw is what reminded me of the notorious LBOK).
And for anyone considering the Dockpower whatever, the LBOK should be much more appealing in comparison! :D
 
Mike that doesn't stack up - it's about 6hp. That's a monster of a motor, and probably only available in 3 phase. You airco raw water motor ought to have been more likely 1hp or so

I didnt think of it that way.
All I saw on the Sealine was the AC current draw leap by about 20 amps when the raw water pump was switched on (for some reason it was controlled by a seperate switch).
I suppose that switching it on must have also started a compressor through some kind of flow switch.
However, once the pump was running with one A/C unit, switching another A/C on only increased the overall electricity by a couple of amps.
So I'm a bit confused.
I've not done the same test on the Princess.
There may have even been something faulty on the Sealine.
I have a friend with a Sealine T52 in SC and we will be travelling with him to Valencia next week. His A/C system is identical to our old one so I think I'll have a look at his consumption figures.
As I say, I'm sure that the difference in consumption between one unit running and two units was very small.
If so, this is important to consider if you are to seperate systems as in suggestion 3.
IMHO of course.
 
Weird, I never had that problem in Croatian marinas.

Me neither. Perhaps time to find another marina?

As you say, a two-into-one lead is the best solution. If not two 16A, then two 32A using the same phase - nothing LBOK about that.

One of the most useful leads I had in Croatia was a 32A to 16A converter, which picked up one of the phases.
 
Ops, I did read quickly and missed that.
Weird, I never had that problem in Croatian marinas.
Try berthing in Palmazana or Korcula Town in July or August. You're lucky to get 1 x 16A supply
 
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