Rule 12V auto bilge pump constantly running

Vega1447

Vega1447

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Well not exactly. It is the ? newer type without a float switch - activates every few minutes and should detect the fact that there is no water present.

Unfortunately it runs for a minute pumping non existent water and then shuts off for a few minutes.

Which will happen first, flat batteries or damaged pump?

I have disconnected the auto feature by removing the fuse.

Is it worth taking the unit home and boiling it or what? :)

Background info, I had a loose connection to alternator power take off which meant no power to switchboard. Hope that didn't damage the pump??

Suggestions welcome..
 
Strong guess that it's clogged with debris, holding water by its sensor. If it were mine I'd remove it and give it a clean out - likely around a filter near the bottom.
 
Electronic switches which sense the presence of water without a float are likely to trigger false pumping if the water is dirty. Wet dirt or slime sticking to the sensor allows a signal current to flow, and switch it on, or more likely to keep the pump running after the water has gone. Some pumps I have had have needed frequent cleaning to prevent this happening.
 
Rule Auto pumps, at least the ones I've used, work by switching on periodically, and sensing the presence of water by the current drawn (or maybe the motor speed?). No water, the pump should spin freely and draw little current, so it shuts off for 2 minutes or so. Then it starts again.
We've found them very reliable for RIBs and other open boats.
I believe they don't like to be run totally dry too often. So they don't belong in a dry GRP yot.
They can clog like anything else, probably can't tell if the motor is slowed by water or dirt. Or a dry bearing????

http://www.rulepumpsupply.com/Bilge_Pumps.html

I don't know how easy it is to damage the electronics in them.
I'd try using it as its maker intended, if it don't work, it's broken!
 
I found the noise of the pump motor going every couple of minutes very annoying so I rigged a finger type float to the manual circuit of the pump. These floats are also not my favourite but it will do for now. Hidden in the small print I think it said the current draw was about 30 milliamp/ hrs or as they said minimal I worked this out to be about 10 amps draw if you left it on while of grid and away for a couple of weeks.
 
Vega1447 said:
Thanks all - I'll try cleaning it & post here if that works..
Click to expand...

We had one, exactly the same symptoms, was kaput. Bought another and a few years later exactly the same. I think that if you Google the problem you'll find that it is quite a common problem.
 
longjohnsilver said:
We had one, exactly the same symptoms, was kaput. Bought another and a few years later exactly the same. I think that if you Google the problem you'll find that it is quite a common problem.
Click to expand...

Which leaves open the question whether 'kaput' meant bunged up and just needed a clean out, or meant somehow broken.
 
Vega1447 said:
Thanks all - I'll try cleaning it & post here if that works..
Click to expand...

I think you will find "computerised" Rule automatic bilge pumps sense water by monitoring the current, as suggested earlier

If there is no water the current is low because the pump is doing nothing ... so it shuts down again.

If there is water the current is high because the pump is now working. It runs until the current falls , then it shuts down .

They cut in to check every 2½ minutes. Power consumption in"checking mode" is said to be minimal
 
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VicS said:
I think you will find "computerised" Rule automatic bilge pumps sense water by monitoring the current, as suggested earlier

If there is no water the current is low because the pump is doing nothing ... so it shuts down again.

If there is water the current is high because the pump is now working. It runs until the current falls , then it shuts down .

They cut in to check every 2½ minutes. Power consumption in"checking mode" is said to be minimal
Click to expand...

Is there any reason not to (slightly) widen the pinhole that admits the water?

Thanks.
 
Vega1447 said:
Is there any reason not to (slightly) widen the pinhole that admits the water?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I think your pump may not have the control system I describe.

Perhaps it has this system but it should not activate every couple of minutes, only when 2¾" of water is sensed

The Rule Mate series of Bilge pumps feature a solid state water
sensing technology that eliminates the need for a separate
float switch.
When water enters the bilge and reaches a certain height (2-3/4 inches) a
sensor turns the pump on. After the water is pumped out, another sensor
shuts the pump off.
The sensor’s unique “field effect” technology will only recognize water. If
a 100% concentration of oil is detected the pump will not activate. This is
not a zero discharge prevention system. The result is the most technically
advanced bilge pump available in the marketplace.​
 
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Yes, the RuleMates have "field effect" sensors. There seems to have been some problems with them, but we bought a RM 1100 gph in 2010, and it has worked perfectly since then: https://shetlandf4.wordpress.com/bilge-pump/.

I do give it a flush out with fresh water at the start and end of each season, taking it through several start/stop cycles, so that might help keep things from sticking and stopping.
 
I had the problem described with the auto bilge pump constantly running and flatten the domestic battery it was linked to.

Dabchick has a deep bilge with a manually operated electric pump at the lowest point and somehow always a few cupfuls of water. This was enough to make the auto pump cycle but not clear.

The solution was to move the auto pump a few feet into normally bone dry bilge: it will still act in emergencies but doesn`t otherwise cycle and flatten the battery.

We have starter plus x 2 domestic batteries all separately switched so the worst would be to flatten one battery.

Where does the water come from? tried tasting it and brackish, I suspect a bit from the anchor hawse pipe, a bit if I clean the log impellor, a bit from the calorifier release valve etc, not much and not worth hunting for.
 
I experimented a bit. With the pump slightly elevated so completely dry it stopped cycling.

But even with a small amount of water (unavoidable as like Chubby above my Vega has a deep bilge) cycling continued.

I tried spraying the pump inlet (impeller) with a hose but no noticeable improvement.

The supplier (CH Marine in Cork) are checking whether I am still in (3 year) warranty...

Here's hoping..
 
Vega1447 said:
I experimented a bit. With the pump slightly elevated so completely dry it stopped cycling.

But even with a small amount of water (unavoidable as like Chubby above my Vega has a deep bilge) cycling continued.

I tried spraying the pump inlet (impeller) with a hose but no noticeable improvement.

The supplier (CH Marine in Cork) are checking whether I am still in (3 year) warranty...

Here's hoping..
Click to expand...

When I searched on this forum I found that *blush* I had posted a similar thread in June 2016 and am therefore still under warranty.

CH Marine are honouring the warranty and have said they will send me a new pump on receipt of the old one.

Yay.
 
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