rudder stuc fast

[jacks_jems]

Hi I have resently purchased a what from paper work is a mcwester 27 custom built mark 4 l.o.a.28'9 desined by C.J.S Roy and built by Atlanta Marine launched 1982 I have no proof this info is correct it has a 1.9 Peugeot engine
it has been in dry dock for some 8/10 years and I cannot move the rudder . any info as to bearings would be helpful please as well as confermation as to model of vessel

 

[gordmac]

Welcome. Can't help with that model but can you get some penetrating oil in about it? If it won't rotate with a bit of force can you try jacking it up a bit?

 

[RichardS]

Assuming that it is a tiller operated rudder then it obviously can only be the bearings. As above, lots of penetrating oil plus repeated small movements and, if no success, rudder/ stock removal.

Richard

 

[dragonvc]

Sounds as though corrosion of stock or calcium from last visit to salt water I would try hot water with mild acid followed by penetrating oil and repeat then try tapping rudder stock.I suspect too much leverage on the rudder may damage the rudder so you end up rebuilding the rudder.

 

[prv]

I suspect too much leverage on the rudder may damage the rudder so you end up rebuilding the rudder.

Obviously strapping a ten-foot pole to it for leverage may not be a good idea, but I'd suggest that any rudder which can be damaged by application of muscle power direct to the blade was not strong enough to go to sea anyway, and it's better to find this out in the yard.

Pete

 

[Tranona]

Welcome to the forum.

Your information about the boat is correct. Macwester Marine was very successful in the early days of GRP boat building and in the early 1980s the moulds and rights to the boats were bought by Atlanta Marine. Suggest you contact the owners association www.macwester.org.uk for more information.

The engine is probably not original, but many boats were completed by owners from mouldings or kits. That engine is far too big for the boat but if it has been well installed it has probably had the revs and power restricted and it should be OK.

 

[anniebray]

If you need to get new bearings made, UHMWPE from Direct Plastics is a very good choice. Very low water absorption & low coefficient of friction.

 

[philwebb]

There is a penetrating oil called “Crack-it” available from plumbing suppliers. It incorporates a freezing gas which will shrink the metal shaft relative to the plastic bearing material and allow the oil to get in between.
The other thing you could do would be to take off the clamp head where the tiller is attached. After applying penetrating oil tap the shaft down carefully with a mallet or soft hammer. Ideally you should have an assistant to support the rudder blade and try to wiggle it. If you can knock the shaft down a bit you can clean up and grease the exposed lower bit before pushing or jacking it back in place.

 

[Tranona]

There is a penetrating oil called “Crack-it” available from plumbing suppliers. It incorporates a freezing gas which will shrink the metal shaft relative to the plastic bearing material and allow the oil to get in between.
The other thing you could do would be to take off the clamp head where the tiller is attached. After applying penetrating oil tap the shaft down carefully with a mallet or soft hammer. Ideally you should have an assistant to support the rudder blade and try to wiggle it. If you can knock the shaft down a bit you can clean up and grease the exposed lower bit before pushing or jacking it back in place.

That won't work with this boat as it has a lower bearing in a shoe on the bottom of the skeg. It it cannot be freed with penetrating oil then there is no alternative to removing the lower bearing (which may well be seized) and removing the rudder completely.

 

[jwilson]

Unlikely to be modern style Delrin replaceable bearings.

Quite possible on a boat of that era is a steel or bronze rod through a steel or bronze tube glassed into the hull, grease in tube, tiller head on top. Often had grease nipples into upper part of tube section. Lower bearing into skeg probably just the end of the rod forming a pin into a hole in the skeg, that part most unlikely to seize badly. Had exactly the same setup on a previous similar aged boat. Used to get stiff every winter layup, soon freed off in use.

Take off tiller fitting and try penetrating oil down tube. Repeat regularly for a week or three then try gentle persuasion, not brute force. Tap up/down and wiggle rudder.

 

[langstonelayabout]

But before you put all of your weight onto the end of the tiller (Yes, I've had to do this just sailing my uncle's Macwester 27) please check that the rudder blade is actually clear of the ground and able to turn.

It wouldn't be the first time someone had had problems with the helm of their boat, only to find the rudder blade and skeg firmly stuck in the ground...

 

[jacks_jems]

thanks for the welcome and info

 

[jacks_jems]

hi thank u for info thatr sounds exacly like what I can see .. I have removed rudder and now working on releasing agents down from the top about to remove grase nipple and try to put fluid in half way down I do have a dulge at the bace of the tube inside the boat I was thinking perhaps a bearing fiberglased in ther at end of tube or perhaps just a seat for the tube .

 

[jacks_jems]

hi thanks lowe beareing free and rudder removed it is the shaft in the tube that is stuck fast

 

[jacks_jems]

many thanks to every one I am now attempting to free rod from outer tude as advised it seems ther is no bearing only the one at the bottom of the rudder which is free as for the engine yes my thorts were it is far to big and I will be looking to replace it in due cource

 

[Neil_Y]

The best stuff for helping with seized metals is ACF-50 as this chemically attacks/dissolves the corrosion products. The oxidised material takes up more space so needs to be moved/dissolved.
Leave it to soak in for a day or two, you can also use an acid like citric crystals from brewing kit suppliers that can dissolve rust. If you replace a metal bearing you need to be aware that the old metal ones generally run higher pressures (they have smaller surface area) so direct replacement with a plastic such as UHMWPE may result in the bearing deforming under pressure. Other materials are available.