Nina Lucia
Well-Known Member
Can I use Blake’s Seacock grease to lightly grease our windlass that I just dismantled, degreased and cleaned
Any better grease for this job?
Any better grease for this job?
Royal Lofran windlass
- Thread starter Nina Lucia
- Start date
Poignard
Well-Known Member
The Lofrans Royal Instruction Manual says this:
I didn't have this manual when I overhauled mine many years ago but I used Quicksilver lithium grease which I happened to have and it has been fine.
I didn't have this manual when I overhauled mine many years ago but I used Quicksilver lithium grease which I happened to have and it has been fine.
Poignard
Well-Known Member
If you need it I have a PDF of the manual and some other info (parts list etc) which I can copy for you.
alahol2
Well-Known Member
Used my Morris K99 standard waterproof grease when I did mine. It's been fine. You can get a set of the nylon bushes from A R Peachment for not much money...
Prices per item are shown below.
630936 = 0.54
630935 = 0.41
630933 = 0.41
630934 = 0.83
601433 = 7.96
All prices + VAT and p&p
Kind regards
From: Steve Aldridge
Sent: 11 October 2016 13:22
To: Stores <Stores@peachment.co.uk>
Subject: FW: LOFRANS / RFQ (Request For Quotation)
A few years ago but I don't think inflation has been too high since then.
Prices per item are shown below.
630936 = 0.54
630935 = 0.41
630933 = 0.41
630934 = 0.83
601433 = 7.96
All prices + VAT and p&p
Kind regards
From: Steve Aldridge
Sent: 11 October 2016 13:22
To: Stores <Stores@peachment.co.uk>
Subject: FW: LOFRANS / RFQ (Request For Quotation)
A few years ago but I don't think inflation has been too high since then.
Nina Lucia
Well-Known Member
Neeves
Well-Known Member
Refreshing to hear some one is servicing their windlass. When you re-assemble make sure that any stainless bolts are isolated from any aluminium castings.
Jonathan
I had a brain freeze but
Think Duralac and there is a grease based product (with which I'm not familiar - but has been mentioned on this Forum)
J
Jonathan
I had a brain freeze but
Think Duralac and there is a grease based product (with which I'm not familiar - but has been mentioned on this Forum)
J
Last edited:
Poignard
Well-Known Member
Good advice.
I bought my Lofrans Royal second-hand and had to drill out all the screws holding the case together.
If I ever bought a new one I would first dismantle it and apply Duralac or similar to every screw.
Nina Lucia
Well-Known Member
Thanks Jonathan,
I will definitely look for Duralac or similar before starting to fit the stainless screws back into the aluminium cast. Some of them was so difficult to remove and two of them needs to be replaced. Duralac grease will be ideal.
I will definitely look for Duralac or similar before starting to fit the stainless screws back into the aluminium cast. Some of them was so difficult to remove and two of them needs to be replaced. Duralac grease will be ideal.
Neeves
Well-Known Member
I find it bizarre that so many, though I can only think of two, marine devices are based on aluminium castings held together with stainless bolts or studs (without any protection between the 2 metals). The two I can think of are windlass and outboards. For outboard there is no expectation that the owner will disassemble the device but windlass manufacturers do recommend an annual service. But nowhere in the instruction I have looked at are any mention made of coating the stainless bolts with Duralac to protect them thus allowing future easy disassembly.
If you buy 'something' from Volvo if often comes with a little vial of Loctite or a Loctite clone to secure the bolts (this has nothing to do with corrosion but to stop the component falling apart). But how much would it cost to print a warning or supply little tubes of Durlac. Word of warning Shamaya - Durlace gets everywhere, have some rags and turps handy - but it works.
The problem is slightly deeper - when yachts are commissioned the individuals installing the windlass don't use Duralac either and if the windlass is not serviced annually - it can as Poignard describes - cause issues. I am asked for advice on windlass, servicing, removal etc - I always have an angle grinder in my kit!
As an aside - way back in the distant past we bought one of the new Honda 4 strokes, 2hp (I think its now a 2.2hp - or something (supporting environmental ideals). I cannot recall the reason but we had need to take it to a Honda service agent, in Sydney. He told us the studs were corroded into the block and he would need to drill the studs out and re-thread - at a cost more than a new outboard. We would never buy a Honda again. Sadly Honda are not unique in having aluminium castings held together with stainless bolts. $ stokes are demanded for environmental reasons - so why should we need to buy something that might have a very short lifespan, which is more environmentally friendly a smoky 2 stroke or a prematurely aged 4 stroke
I appreciate aluminium saves weight, which for an outboard that will be carried - is important - but why no Duralac?
Why is Duralac never used during assembly at the factory and warnings printed in the servicing section of the operators manual. Is it all so difficult.
Whinge over (but I might whinge again if another thread is started).
Duralac is not the only 'treatment' there is an oil based product - whose name I forget.
Jonathan
If you buy 'something' from Volvo if often comes with a little vial of Loctite or a Loctite clone to secure the bolts (this has nothing to do with corrosion but to stop the component falling apart). But how much would it cost to print a warning or supply little tubes of Durlac. Word of warning Shamaya - Durlace gets everywhere, have some rags and turps handy - but it works.
The problem is slightly deeper - when yachts are commissioned the individuals installing the windlass don't use Duralac either and if the windlass is not serviced annually - it can as Poignard describes - cause issues. I am asked for advice on windlass, servicing, removal etc - I always have an angle grinder in my kit!
As an aside - way back in the distant past we bought one of the new Honda 4 strokes, 2hp (I think its now a 2.2hp - or something (supporting environmental ideals). I cannot recall the reason but we had need to take it to a Honda service agent, in Sydney. He told us the studs were corroded into the block and he would need to drill the studs out and re-thread - at a cost more than a new outboard. We would never buy a Honda again. Sadly Honda are not unique in having aluminium castings held together with stainless bolts. $ stokes are demanded for environmental reasons - so why should we need to buy something that might have a very short lifespan, which is more environmentally friendly a smoky 2 stroke or a prematurely aged 4 stroke
I appreciate aluminium saves weight, which for an outboard that will be carried - is important - but why no Duralac?
Why is Duralac never used during assembly at the factory and warnings printed in the servicing section of the operators manual. Is it all so difficult.
Whinge over (but I might whinge again if another thread is started).
Duralac is not the only 'treatment' there is an oil based product - whose name I forget.
Jonathan
Nina Lucia
Well-Known Member
???
Absolutely agree! I think they just want us to keep buying same or similar products again. I had to replace most of the bolts and drill and retreated two. New windlass is £500.00 so I tough I might give a try to save it for a little while.
Absolutely agree! I think they just want us to keep buying same or similar products again. I had to replace most of the bolts and drill and retreated two. New windlass is £500.00 so I tough I might give a try to save it for a little while.
alahol2
Well-Known Member
I don't service my windlass every season, it gets too little use to warrant it. What I do is to grease the stainless bolts at assembly and then I loosen re-tighten every year. This ensures that I can undo them when I need to.
I do the same with the exhaust elbow bolts and the visible bolts on the 2HP Mariner O/B. It only takes a few seconds every year but can save hours of frustration.
I do the same with the exhaust elbow bolts and the visible bolts on the 2HP Mariner O/B. It only takes a few seconds every year but can save hours of frustration.
pandos
Well-Known Member
Reading this thread has given me the collywobbles...my windlass has never been touched other than I took the motor apart and cleaned it with WD40 and a hammer about 10 years ago..(it came back to life and is opperating fine since)
I used wd40 on the basis that if it is stuck use wd40, or a bigger hammer.
I resealed it with dirco..
Maybe next year I will consider servicing it...(I presume if I go at it at least one bolt will shear and I will be worse off ..)
I tried to buy duralac in a chandlers here a few months ago and they looked at me as if I had two heads, likewise in an electrical wholesalers....(I have since bought a large tube on Amazon...and it does go everywhere)
I think lanocoat/lanolin is probably the oil that Neeve's is thinking about. The makers of Windpilots recommend it as a means to protect the aluminium from the stainless/corrosion.
I used wd40 on the basis that if it is stuck use wd40, or a bigger hammer.
I resealed it with dirco..
Maybe next year I will consider servicing it...(I presume if I go at it at least one bolt will shear and I will be worse off ..)
I tried to buy duralac in a chandlers here a few months ago and they looked at me as if I had two heads, likewise in an electrical wholesalers....(I have since bought a large tube on Amazon...and it does go everywhere)
I think lanocoat/lanolin is probably the oil that Neeve's is thinking about. The makers of Windpilots recommend it as a means to protect the aluminium from the stainless/corrosion.
alahol2
Well-Known Member
The other protectant oft recommended is Tef-Gel.