Rowlocks and sockets, in chrome...tasteless bling, or just fabulous?

And while you're at it get some dome head nuts to use on the underside rather than have nasty, sticky out bits of machine screw waiting to tear your finger ends. You may need to hacksaw/grind the machine screws to a suitable length.
 
prv said:
It's M4, countersunk, with a choice of 25 or 35mm length, and many pack sizes from singles, twos and threes to 20, 30, and 50.
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Thanks Pete, I was having a blind moment. Although, I'm still just assuming that M4 indicates 4mm dia? Does the same "M4" distinction apply to the nuts I'll want underneath?

Thanks for the ergonomic thought, Alahol.
 
dancrane said:
Thanks Pete, I was having a blind moment. Although, I'm still just assuming that M4 indicates 4mm dia? Does the same "M4" distinction apply to the nuts I'll want underneath?
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That's right - for all the "M" metric threads, the size is the outermost diameter of the male thread. The nut and bolt must be the same size thread, so you need some M4 nuts.

Pete
 
Dan,

I'm sure you know this but a reminder, when cutting bolts / machine screws, wind a standard nut up beyond the cutting point, towards the head.

The act of removing this later will repair the thread damaged by cutting, if this is not done it may be impossible to get a nut on the thread afterwards.
 
Good advice, thanks.

For neatness, shouldn't each whole rectangular rowlock-socket be countersunk, flush-fitted into the surface of the deck, a millimeter or two?

Taking bets on how long it'll take to drill 17mm dia holes through my 30mm thick GRP/wood-core sidedeck-overhangs, using a hand-drill...it's probably older than me... :rolleyes:

I can't decide whether to pick up a 17mm wood drill-bit like this...

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/power-to...t-Wood-Drill-Bit-17mm-11407656?skuId=11918363

...or drill a 17mm 'ring' of smaller holes with bits which will go through the GRP/wood core more easily.
 
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dancrane said:
Good advice, thanks.

For neatness, shouldn't each whole rectangular rowlock-socket be countersunk, flush-fitted into the surface of the deck, a millimeter or two?

Taking bets on how long it'll take to drill 17mm dia holes through my 30mm thick GRP/wood-core sidedeck-overhangs, using a hand-drill...it's probably older than me... :rolleyes:

I can't decide whether to pick up a 17mm wood drill-bit like this...

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/power-to...t-Wood-Drill-Bit-17mm-11407656?skuId=11918363

...or drill a 17mm 'ring' of smaller holes with bits which will go through the GRP/wood core more easily.
Click to expand...

Dan,

yes in a perfect world the rowlock seats should be flush, or may tear clothing / posteriors.

However isn't this a winter job ?...
 
Seajet said:
...isn't this a winter job ?...
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It is, Andy, but the recent dismal weather hasn't made me think "that can wait", so much as "oh well, it's hideous weather, I can do that job I was thinking about".

Nice to get satisfaction from a boat even when you can't sail her. Every job I've done on the Osprey has hopefully improved the resulting sailing (or rowing) experience.

Having said that, using the hand-drill, it might take until winter...
 
Dan, you probably know this already but if you're going to use a flat bit, you need to decide that at the start- don't try using one to ream out a smaller hole, it won't work (guess how I know).
 
Mavanier said:
...don't try using one to ream out a smaller hole, it won't work (guess how I know).
Click to expand...

I think I tried that myself, years ago with a power-drill. I made a mess of almost all practical projects I touched then, so I can be confident that it ended badly then, too.

I'm not very confident that a hand-drill will shift enough solid material, turning a bit as wide as 17mm. Is it possible, d'you think?

Plan B was to drill a ring of 3mm holes, until the 17mm dia rowlock socket fits. Slightly mad, but any untidiness will be invisible. What did they do before cordless drills?
 
A cordless Dremel is good for tidying up holes, but for the same money you can get an inverter and use your Black and Decker.
Or get a file that's the right kind of size.
Any chrome on a boat should be chromed bronze, not steel.
Make sure the rowlocks are outboard enough that the oars can angle down enough without tending to hit the gunwhale on every little wave.
I've seen boats with the sockets set into a little raised bit to fair them in without cutting big slots in the deck. Tufnol or similar?
 
dancrane said:
Good advice, thanks.

For neatness, shouldn't each whole rectangular rowlock-socket be countersunk, flush-fitted into the surface of the deck, a millimeter or two?
Click to expand...
Just bash 'em in like I did on my Heron.

HeronVarnish07.jpg
 
dancrane said:
I think I tried that myself, years ago with a power-drill. I made a mess of almost all practical projects I touched then, so I can be confident that it ended badly then, too.

I'm not very confident that a hand-drill will shift enough solid material, turning a bit as wide as 17mm. Is it possible, d'you think?

Plan B was to drill a ring of 3mm holes, until the 17mm dia rowlock socket fits. Slightly mad, but any untidiness will be invisible. What did they do before cordless drills?
Click to expand...

Dan,

assuming you have the required drill bits, just step up size in stages starting with a small pilot drill.

You're right about cordless drills though, one would make life a lot easier; I normally reckon Homebase stuff is junk, but I did get a surprisingly good 18V cordless from them at a good price; don't know what their current deals are like though.
 
Unfortunately, there's also my latent fascination with electric propulsion to worry about. If I get a hefty cordless drill on the boat, it's only a matter of time before I'm trudging round boat-marts/boot-sales, looking for a tiny propellor to stick out through the transom flaps. :rolleyes:

I had 12 and 24 volt drills in France - low-endurance Far East cheapies - never quite as good as I hoped. I always wondered why the manufacturers don't offer a version that could also be hooked up to a car's 12v supply - after all, most remote operations will have a car or truck nearby, and their batteries won't go flat after 20 mins of hard work. Likewise on a yacht.

I wonder why the traditional brace & bit isn't available new anymore? No boring recharging necessary, no heavy anti-ecology batteries, and I expect it'd be possible to buy British instead of Chinese. My boat is inconveniently far from a power socket so I'd buy one like a shot. Any serviceable oldies out there, for sale?

Truth is, as Pete said it's very unlikely I'll have to bore through 30mm of GRP because the core is probably wood. Not such a task but uncertain as yet.
 
Thanks Alahol, as soon as I'm paid, I'll order one. £8!! And no charging worries, ever. I didn't know they were still available new. :)

I wonder if I can attach a propellor to the bit-end...:rolleyes:
 
Around our way ( Midhurst ) there's a monthly indoor market where one of the regular stalls is a society dedicated to old tools - I forget their actual title but they always have good, interesting stuff for sale; maybe there's something similar - or the same outfit - around your area ?
 
Tried the rowlocks today - after lowering the mainsail at sea, courtesy of my new pal Lazy Jack.

Dropping the main - without it filling the cockpit - certainly was a surprisingly relaxing experience, and prevented the swim/crash-stop we'd got used to at the beach.

Rowlocks in, oars out; and I rowed us a half-mile to see how it went. I was surprised by how hard the boat was to keep on course - very reluctant to row straight unless SWMBO sat dead central. Possibly I oughtn't to have raised the centreboard so far.

Close to the slipway I hooked the oars in too quickly, and lost one rowlock overboard. I'd only secured them with whipping twine... :rolleyes:

...but two hours later, the tide having dropped a few feet, I returned to the beach...and there was my chrome rowlock, gleaming brightly up at me.

I doubt I'd have been able to find a less shiny one, so, in answer to my original question, CHROME IS GREAT! :)
 
Dinghies are **** rowers without the CB down. Makes sense really as rowing boats have a definite 2 or 3" keel and a prominent skeg at the stern.

Still can't see the lazy jacks advantage, but if you find them useful.....
 
Lakesailor said:
Still can't see the lazy jacks advantage...
Click to expand...

Maybe it relates to the class. The Mk2 GRP Osp has broad sidedecks and not that much floorspace...and nowhere to stow the boom when it's not supported by the sail. The shrouds prevent the boom going out further than about 60º off the centreline (do other dinghies have such a small sweep? I can't remember) so once the main is raised, any odd shift/gust begins shoving her about even if you're trying to spill wind.

I'd thought a topping lift would keep the boom out of the way, but that's less of a problem than the sail, and I haven't the heart to crush the main into a rough heap in the bilge when we land...

...so keeping sail and boom overhead, just works.

Even in today's light airs, two smaller dinghies near as dammit rolled off their trolleys ashore, because they were hauled out without their sails freed to spill wind.

The onshore breeze makes landing harder in a biggish boat...somebody has to stand chest-deep to keep the nose to windward, while the other fetches the trolley...

...and if the mainsail stays up, the Osprey becomes decidedly wayward. Previously, letting the main drop as we reached the beach, meant boom and sail often flopped overboard to one side or the other - it was a mess. Not any more.

The lazyjacks aren't perfect, but I can now turn off the power without any cockpit chaos in just a few seconds, even before coming ashore. And once the sail's up, I hook the lazyjacks forward to the gooseneck, so there's no cat's cradle to snare swimmers.

I unknowingly bought a pack of terrible sail-ties at Force 4, £5.95...not recommended:

View attachment 33583

...the elastics should have been secured in the holes by tight steel rings...but all the rings just snapped and broke off. Hopeless. I tied them with whipping twine instead.
 
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