Rope hooks in cockpit locker?

All you need are enough S/S or plastic medium hooks for the amount of lines you need to hang.

Make the same number of 8mm cord loops long enough to pass around the coils. Fit the hooks, hang a loop on and tape in place close to the mounting point of the hook. Should now remain in place and not be able to fall off.

When stowing your lines, open locker, put coil up your forearm, grab loop end, pull through coil and hook on hook. Coil now hanging and secure.

Worked on our previous boats at a fraction of the cost of Chandlers alternatives.

Simples.............................. :cool:
 
I used this sort of thing:

Double HAT & COAT HOOKS Large Pack Aluminium Dress Robe Garment Peg Door Hanger | eBay

Cheap and easy to cut down to the size you require. They have lasted very well.

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I have used exactly same as doug and fixed them to a wood batten itself hung to a lower level from the original high inaccessible level batten .Means that I can both see the new hooks and reach them to pass the hank loop over when kneeling at the locker.Certainly sorts out the warps and all those short lengths from the previous shambles.These hooks couldn't be cheaper,more durable or hookable.
 
All you need are enough S/S or plastic medium hooks for the amount of lines you need to hang.

Make the same number of 8mm cord loops long enough to pass around the coils. Fit the hooks, hang a loop on and tape in place close to the mounting point of the hook. Should now remain in place and not be able to fall off.

When stowing your lines, open locker, put coil up your forearm, grab loop end, pull through coil and hook on hook. Coil now hanging and secure.

Worked on our previous boats at a fraction of the cost of Chandlers alternatives.

Simples.............................. :cool:

That's the sort of system I use, another advantage being the small plastic hooks and associated loops don't restrict access to the rest of the locker like fixed, larger hooks might.
 
Thanks all. A lot of good tips and advice there.

Rotrax - your hooks sound good and like the technique to put them on.. almost makes me reconsider line tamers!.. One reason I dislike them, apart from being fidly, is that any rope in the near vicinity usually gets pulled off at the same time! Not very good bunched with other ropes IMO.

Also like the idea of a board with dowel through them - could be one for the future.

Do brass hooks rust? Or is it just that 'brass' hooks from DIY stores are brass-coated and rust once the coat wears out..

Anyway thanks again (y)
 
Thanks all. A lot of good tips and advice there.

Rotrax - your hooks sound good and like the technique to put them on.. almost makes me reconsider line tamers!.. One reason I dislike them, apart from being fidly, is that any rope in the near vicinity usually gets pulled off at the same time! Not very good bunched with other ropes IMO.

Also like the idea of a board with dowel through them - could be one for the future.

Do brass hooks rust? Or is it just that 'brass' hooks from DIY stores are brass-coated and rust once the coat wears out..

Anyway thanks again (y)

I suspect brass hooks from cheap sources are steel hooks with a yellow varnish on them.

Jonathan
 
Since I find nothing I like, I make my own from 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum strip. I bend them around a mandrel to resemble a circle fishhook except even farther closed, so that they do not snag sail bags or clothing. They hold body weight. The ropes are secured with ~ 12" continuous slings hitched around the coil, that then drops over the hook. very secure. About $0.60 each.
 
No, I used the Ikea hooks, adjusted a little so they stay on the rod. I tied a loop of parachute cord to the back of the hook permanently, then, to attach a line, I push the loop through the coil and drop it onto the hook so the cord is hanging from the cord. One downside is that it makes the hatch cover heavier to lift, and I definitely need to attach it to the guard wire to keep it up, or it's liable to brain me!
 
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