rope construction for a continuous line furler?

Ian_Edwards

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I need to make up a continuous furling line for a Karver furler.

It looks like a 10mm polyester braid on braid will be the best option, it doesn't need to be that strong but does need to be easy to splice into a continuous loop, and reasonably soft so it grips the furling drum.

There seem to be a range of different constructions for braid on braid, 24 strand outer - 12 strand inner, 16 strand outer - 8 strand inner, etc.

Which construction is easiest to splice into a continuous loop, so that there no increase in diameter at the splice?
 
Don't get too hung up on the splice. Arrange it so the splice is near the furling drum when the sail is rolled away and it moves away from the drum as you unfurl. That way, it will never pass through the furling drum.

I have a cam cleat on my coaming at the cockpit, which i use if i only need to partly unfurl the sail. My splice never gets as far as the cleat, so it doesn't even need to be a particularly strong splice, keep it simple.

Thanks to Craig at CB rigging for reminding me of the above when i recently changed my furling line :encouragement:
 
I've done a few endless lines on dinghies. There are lots of ropes suitable for this at around 4mm diameter.
Depending on what splice you use, the key is basically to have an equal cross-sectional area of strands in core and cover, within limits. With a little practice I can do splices that run seamlessly through blocks and cleats.
I suspect the idea of buying the right rope for the job is even more important on a yacht furler.
I'd be wary of convincing myself the splice never needed to go around the furler, the time it needs to is when things are already going a bit Pete Tong, when you least want to be let down by your gear.
 
I've done a few endless lines on dinghies. There are lots of ropes suitable for this at around 4mm diameter.
Depending on what splice you use, the key is basically to have an equal cross-sectional area of strands in core and cover, within limits. With a little practice I can do splices that run seamlessly through blocks and cleats.
I suspect the idea of buying the right rope for the job is even more important on a yacht furler.
I'd be wary of convincing myself the splice never needed to go around the furler, the time it needs to is when things are already going a bit Pete Tong, when you least want to be let down by your gear.

How do you suppose the line will go around the furler if the splice starts at the furler and moves aft as you unfurl ?
 
How do you suppose the line will go around the furler if the splice starts at the furler and moves aft as you unfurl ?

If it is a continuous line furler for an asymmetric then the full length of the loop of rope may go round the furler wheel multiple times when furling and unfurling. Certainly ours does.

Very different from a genoa furling line which is not continuous loop, but a single line from the furler
 
If it is a continuous line furler for an asymmetric then the full length of the loop of rope may go round the furler wheel multiple times when furling and unfurling. Certainly ours does.

Very different from a genoa furling line which is not continuous loop, but a single line from the furler

Of Course !

I was thinking of my continuous genoa furling system.
 
When I had Bainbridge double line genoa reefing I used braid on braid, 12mm IIRC. I think that this is 24/12 construction.
Selden did have splicing instructions on their web-site which I probably used.
 
How do you suppose the line will go around the furler if the splice starts at the furler and moves aft as you unfurl ?

Done right, it's hard to actually find a continuous line splice. There's usually just a bit of stitching that shows if you look very carefully. Trimming a German main when racing, a common technique to play the waves and gust is to winch in on the windward winch whilst easing on the leeward winch. After a bit of that you have no idea where in the system the splice actually is.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vGtJh4lEE90
This is the Sailspar splice and as has been mentioned they used Liros rope which is easy to splice, other well known makes will do the same job! This is for the Sailspar continous line reefing gear, a great bit of kit!

Brilliant to see that. The interesting thing is that the loop he splices is actually quite short, the secret I've found to braid on braid splicing of any sort is having plenty of outer to "milk", the more you can compress the outer the more space you have to get the fid and other outer inside....
 
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