Robertson screw system

sarabande

sarabande

Well-Known Member
Joined
6 May 2005
Messages
36,182
Visit site
robetson and torx

I got a 4 gall bucket buckshee a few years ago of 2 3/4 just about finished them now they have been reealy good slipless than posi's but
These torx head screws are much better you wont want to use any other after trying them . the drivers never slip !
you do need good qual driver bits though.Cheap chinese tend to snap
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p89...=26799513263&gclid=CJXnw83nzrsCFZLKtAodsg4AFw
 
Widely used in Canada and perhaps the US, but virtually unknown over here.

Not at all convinced that they're sufficiently better than Pozidriv to offset the fact that nobody will ever have the right screwdriver.

Pete
 
Robertson screws are great.
After using them you will find almost all others extremely frustrating.
Funny thing about them is they are cheaper to produce than other screws but Robertson always insisted on charging more.
I think it was Henry Ford who was so annoyed by this he had Philips design a screw which would not be subject to Robertson’s patent. It’s not as good but was good enough.
Most multi drivers have Robertson heads included
 
sarabande said:
I am almost at the stag eof glueing and screwing some bits of boaty wood together.

Does anyone have any views on the suitability of the Robertson screw system please ?


for woodworking
http://www.robertsonscrew.com/Linked Files/woodworking & misc.- no pricing-e.vs.pdf

Screwdrivers and heads
http://www.robertsonscrew.com/Linked Files/driver & bits catalogue.e.vs.pdf


It seems to be a logical system, and that appeals to someone like me, who can confuse a Pozidriv and a Phillips at fifty yards.
Click to expand...
To my eye, Pozi and Phillips head look out of place on a boat (but a personal thing).

If the head in either of these starts to slip on the driver, all is probably lost! Slotted head you could almost always remove.

Hex head screws are the best as the head has no draught (i.e. no taper) and as long as the cavity is clean, it is almost certain to allow removal of the screw.

Robertson look good but are they available in the right materials and are they available at all?
 
sarabande said:
I am almost at the stag eof glueing and screwing some bits of boaty wood together.

Does anyone have any views on the suitability of the Robertson screw system please ?


for woodworking
http://www.robertsonscrew.com/Linked Files/woodworking & misc.- no pricing-e.vs.pdf

Screwdrivers and heads
http://www.robertsonscrew.com/Linked Files/driver & bits catalogue.e.vs.pdf


It seems to be a logical system, and that appeals to someone like me, who can confuse a Pozidriv and a Phillips at fifty yards.
Click to expand...

If you are just using the screws to hold the work together then ordinary slots are fine. The advantage of the Robertson type is positive driving when using automatic equipment and more positive location if removing them. Neither of these apply to DIY gluing so not worth the premium.
 
prv said:
...where you are. Not where we are. I don't think I've ever seen a square-headed Robertson screw or driver in person.

Pete
Click to expand...

Quite possibly though most good ones have lots of different heads.
I did once ask for some in the B and Q near Anniesland Cross. The lad had no idea what I was talking about.
 
If anyone is interested I could send you some.
They are not expensive.
The shipping might be a bit pricy
I have about 2/3rd of a box of 2 inch left over from doing the floor of my house( glued and screwed no squeeks) and about the same of drywall screws from the walls.
I used 3 inch stainless from building my deck they were quite expensive but galvanised no longer acceptable with pressure treated wood.
Brass are readily available.

For wood work on any kind of cabinetry I find a good set of clamps and some glue work best.
 
We use both the square and the torx-type socket in screws for decking and other outdoor woodwork. It's a very positive fit for the driver and as someone said earlier, the absence of taper means that the driver stays put on the screw even when the thread bites and the screw races in to the wood - other types of driver are left behind by this leading to a 'spin out' resulting in a chewed up screw and bit. It's good not to have to exert lots of pressure on the driver all the time in anticipation of this, and also allows easier backing out.

We get ours from specialist suppliers who include a driver for every 500 or so screws, but I have found drivers in mixed boxes from B and Decker.
 
I'm going to try these! They look great. I don't mind admitting I can't tell Posidrive from Philips. Now I'll never get it wrong. Bit more expensive - but I probably use less than 100 a year.
Thanks to the OP for posting.
 
Having just finished an extension, the builder was using Jewson own brand screws which are basically Pozidrive but with a square centre and you get a free bit in every box. Cheaper than similar Spax German made screws and work just as well. I've used loads and they never slip and easy to remove if needed.
 
PetiteFleur said:
Having just finished an extension, the builder was using Jewson own brand screws which are basically Pozidrive but with a square centre and you get a free bit in every box. Cheaper than similar Spax German made screws and work just as well. I've used loads and they never slip and easy to remove if needed.
Click to expand...
also pozi & phillips fit the Jewson Supascrew as well
 
wickes, torx and a bit

wickes have boxes of torx screws for decking supplied with a bit in the box only have a few sizes they drive in without even drilling a hole the non taper heads never slip.The price is virtually the same as slotted or posi

Once you have tried ether robertson or torx head you will not want to use anything else ... They look better in place as well

Brass slotted look good but they are very slow to use in a professional capacity
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top