Road Trailer loading for a 16 to 18ft I/B motor boat , But unshure

penfold

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Guess I should abandon the buying of the 4 wheel unbraked trailer plus get a bigger towing car ; thanks for all the info and guidence provided me CP
No one knows until the weight of the vessel is known and the two numbers on your car's VIN plate are known; then a judgement might be made as to whether you need a new car.
 

fisherman

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At Mylor launching from the slip us free, but parking is expensive, I can park at the slip, but the trailer has to go a half mile from the slip, and costs the same as the car.
I have a solution. I get a car transporter trailer, put the boat on it, drive to the slip and launch. Park the trailer, then put the car on it. Simples!
 

Capt Popeye

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No one knows until the weight of the vessel is known and the two numbers on your car's VIN plate are known; then a judgement might be made as to whether you need a new car.

Yep but , I o not know the weight of the boat , its not a regular model or a known make , so have not been able to get any firm details of weight , yet ?

But Fisherman posted detais of my present car towing capacity and I am very limited , legally :

The bog issue I guess in that its an Unbraked 4 wheel trailer so poss not legal anyway : Have thougt of hiring a long car transporter trailer , Fisherman also commented upon that idea {:)#
 

ProDave

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Don't under estimate the task of setting up a boat trailer for a particular boat for the first time. I made some alterations to a previous boat trailer and the only practical way to do it, was make measurements and photographs of what you want to alter, then make the alterations with the boat off the trailer. That meant making alterations in the summer season while the boat was afloat, then waiting for winter crane out to see how successful you were. It took 2 tries, hence 2 years to get it right.

How are you going to get the boat onto the trailer? If intending to float it on at a slipway, best of luck with that for the very first time.

I towed a previous 18ft yacht that had a stated weight of about 800Kg on a 4 wheel braked trailer with a car rated at 1.5 ton with no problem, but I suspect it was close. the 4 wheel trailer must have been at least half a ton on it's own.

Why not post a picture of the boat here, someone might have a better idea. But it seems certain it will need to be a braked trailer.
 

penfold

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Thinking of Buying a Road Trailer for a 16 to 18ft Motor Boat with Inboard Engine but uncertain of max loading on thge suspension : So any advice please as to Load Bearing capacity required : This Inboard Motor Boat is not a satndard boat so cannot find out the boat weight etc : Have seen Motor Cruisers , mainly O/B ones on what appear to be quite lightweight trailers , but certainly do not want a Traier failure to happen to me

Thank you CP

NB Loading on the Trailer independent suspension appears to be available in loadings of 350 , 550 , ???
Going back to the OP; some pictures of the boat would help estimating the weight, but greater precision is needed really for specifying a trailer. What facilities are available where the boat is? A crane, travel hoist etc?

Trailer failures only happen to chronically neglected trailers, people move their own boats around on trailers without mishap all the time. I've towed boats thousands of miles and never had so much as a puncture because the trailers were maintained. Axles and axle sets from suspension makers are available up to 1800kg capacity, allowing a twin axle to have a total capacity of 3500kg for the weight of trailer and load, which is the practical limit for trailers in the UK.
 

fisherman

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My local engineer warned me not to take on a long trailer trip without spare wheel(s), and a set of bearings. You don't need much kit to do a bearing change, pliers, big adjustable, long punch (big screwdriver), hammer. The trick is to keep the wheel on the hub, remove the split pin and nut, pull hub and wheel off together, gives you a firm mounting while you work. The hub has a groove to enable a drift in to knock out the old race. Use the old bearing race as a drift to knock the new one in, thick edge to thin edge so you can knock the drift race out again.
I've had two roadside punctures. or rather tyre failures, because they get old before they wear out. Bit of a surprise going round a bend with a flat tyre.
 

northwind

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My local engineer warned me not to take on a long trailer trip without spare wheel(s), and a set of bearings. You don't need much kit to do a bearing change, pliers, big adjustable, long punch (big screwdriver), hammer. The trick is to keep the wheel on the hub, remove the split pin and nut, pull hub and wheel off together, gives you a firm mounting while you work. The hub has a groove to enable a drift in to knock out the old race. Use the old bearing race as a drift to knock the new one in, thick edge to thin edge so you can knock the drift race out again.
I've had two roadside punctures. or rather tyre failures, because they get old before they wear out. Bit of a surprise going round a bend with a flat tyre.
While this is true of roller taper bearings, many braked trailers are now fitted with Alko hubs, which use a sealed bearing, which has to be pressed into the hub. These are a pain to change at the roadside...
 

northwind

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William_H

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I think around here tapered roller bearings are most common. It is quite common to see a spare wheel for the trailer mounted on the vertical winch post on a stub axle. Such that you carry spare tire and spare bearing.
It is vital on any long run to stop after a few kilometers and just check hub for heating. Before departure worth jacking the side of the trailer to just spin each wheel and check for noise and stiffness.
My dad way back got to tow a caravan from Darwin to Perth about 3000k. The caravan had done just a few km from new but had sat on sight for some years. A little way down the road the bearing got hot. Enough to heat the stub axle to softening and break. In fact so hot that the wheel went in to scrub to start a small fire. Treat bearing with great respect. Tires too. ol'will
 

ChromeDome

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No one knows until the weight of the vessel is known and the two numbers on your car's VIN plate are known; then a judgement might be made as to whether you need a new car.
When ready to go the car commonly has some spare load capacity within its allowed weight,- you may move stuff from the boat to the car to get the trailer GW down.
 

Capt Popeye

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Ah well thank you for all the comments , been most helpfull to me in my Quest to recover a boat , by road , from river Dart moorings and transport it to Teign

Well owing to the Towing weight restrictions I have decded that its NOT a legal suitable task for a Vitaria , also the 18ft 4 wheel trailer is most probably not road legal , so a possibly unsuitable car plus an illegal trailer plus plus a very heavy boat (inc i/b engine , so must again try and sort out a Boat trailing company of other commercial company agreeable to undrtaking this task

THank you again CP
 

fisherman

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You can hire a 4x4, flatbed trailer also, if a contractor proves expensive. Then you have to winch the boat on, and not all boats have a strongpoint designed for such load, you have to put a strop round the keel.
 

fisherman

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Hiab lorries come in all sizes, so maybe not ask for the bigger ones, our local is about £1k per turnout. He can lift fifteen tons if it's right alongside between the outriggers. Not into the water mind, as he can't get that close to the quay edge, about ten tons or a bit less just outside the legs.
For what you need the average Jewson delivery lorry style is adequate.
 
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