The steadying handle just gets in the way and if you can't hold it the things just thrash around on the end of the drill, a very poor substitute for a proper tool. Usually the gears are made from putty too.
Why does the OP's picture have a chuck key in it?
The steadying handle just gets in the way and if you can't hold it the things just thrash around on the end of the drill, a very poor substitute for a proper tool. Usually the gears are made from putty too.
Why does the OP's picture have a chuck key in it?
My chart table has a hinged lid, with a 45mm deep space underneath. I want to drill a 44mm hole in the side of this space, into the electrics locker...
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Bought an equivalent one from LiDL and used it to drill two 8mm holes when I was fitting a Racor filter-separator. Normal drill would not fit in the space between the 'wall' and the engine.
Just for that one job alone it was worth it.
Note that there is a safe limit to the revs when using these gadgets; this is where a variable speed cordless drill - also from LiDL - came in handy.
The proper tool is ?
and what does it cost?
Nobody I am sure expects something for under a fiver to be the equal of something costing £100, £200 or £300 but for the average DIYer who may only need the thing a couple of times in a lifetime it could well be the answer.
I hope it is better construction than the one I bought elsewhere. The plastic case formed the bearing bearing surface around the spindles.
+1The steadying handle just gets in the way and if you can't hold it the things just thrash around on the end of the drill, a very poor substitute for a proper tool. Usually the gears are made from putty too.
I doubt you would hold this gadget steady enough for a hole saw.I wonder if I can use one of these to drill further into the "back" of my chart table, in the recess under the monitor.
Don't waste your money - cheap, and I mean really cheap chinese ****. The gearing is extremely rough and cannot transmit any real torque - max rpm IIRC is 500 - ouch.