rigging shackles

dylanwinter

dylanwinter

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Buckingham
www.keepturningleft.co.uk
I am going with the dynema instead of turnbuckles for attaching the shrouds to the side-decks

so....

5mm is the size of the pins on the existing rigging

some of these


strip shackles

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sailing-d...UK_Sporting_Goods_Sailing&hash=item5d323d1cbf


std shackle

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5mm-pin-S...UK_Sporting_Goods_Sailing&hash=item4aa5d0e5f1


d shackle


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bow-Shack...orting_Goods_Sailing&var=&hash=item76c09c2b3d



dylan

I managed to clear the slot on gaff in the method suggested on this forum - worked a treat

I stripped the fittings and have started on the spars

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4Ot-OowiDU

I understand I have to replace the gunge under the fittings

clear bathroom sealant worked very well on the duck punt - can I use it for sealing the fittings


Dylan









if
 
Not to doubt you Dylan, but 5mm sounds awfully small for a clevis pin on a Rigging Screw. Normally they are the same size as the thread.

See here:

http://www.stalok.com/online_shop_item_details.asp?ItemRef=B24&sec_id=1575

Even 3mm wire has a 6.5mm pin. Are you sure you measured it right?

Also I heard (not sure from where) that glazing sealant doesn't like stainless steel very much because its slightly acidic (or something like that). Might be worth going for proper marine silicone or sikaflex as its a pretty important fitting.
 
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Collars of Oxford, dead famous spar and oar maker.

Re ebay shackles - make sure they are marine grade s/steel. Lots of cheap rubbish being sold which ain't fit for purpose - especially if holding the stick up.

Avoiding the runs - put on many thin coats, don't try and slap it all on in two or three goes.
 
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on the video is it ptf tape round the threads dont know what good it would do unless they were bulking out the thread had the white gunge gone hard or was it soft because you can get selants that dont set and keep moisture out that way
 
One of the sikaflexs was my thought... not for adhesion but to help stop water ingress...

With regard to sealant - for important stuff I would use the tried and trusted's - for the new bung hole on my tender I used bathroom sealant - seems to work... for the moment..... :rolleyes:
 
re varnish

Collars are top notch spar & oar-makers, trust what they've done.

They'll have used Sikaflex or similar (Marineware do one - 292?)under all the fittings, and in the bolt holes, as I did when I made mine, to stop water ingress with a s**t to a blanket stickyness combined with flexibility. Also drill pilot holes for new fittings, and get some gunge in the threads of the new and replaced screws, to stop water creeping in through capillary action. Use a good excess, and wipe off whilst still wet with a turpsy rag - don't be tempted to let it go off then cut away with a knife, 'cos that will breach the gasket you've formed, and look a mess.

Don't use B&Q bathroom sealer, please.:eek:

Never heard of Rustins varnish, either - was that B&Q, too?:rolleyes:

Classic boat long term varnish test shows Sikkens Novatech and Coelan very superior to most others - Rustins not tested.
 
Rustins and sealants

maxcampbell said:
Collars are top notch spar & oar-makers, trust what they've done.

They'll have used Sikaflex or similar (Marineware do one - 292?)under all the fittings, and in the bolt holes, as I did when I made mine, to stop water ingress with a s**t to a blanket stickyness combined with flexibility. Also drill pilot holes for new fittings, and get some gunge in the threads of the new and replaced screws, to stop water creeping in through capillary action. Use a good excess, and wipe off whilst still wet with a turpsy rag - don't be tempted to let it go off then cut away with a knife, 'cos that will breach the gasket you've formed, and look a mess.

Don't use B&Q bathroom sealer, please.:eek:

Never heard of Rustins varnish, either - was that B&Q, too?:rolleyes:

Classic boat long term varnish test shows Sikkens Novatech and Coelan very superior to most others - Rustins not tested.
Click to expand...

the rustins suggestion came from the wooden boat builders on another forum

and what does clear bathroom sealant do that is bad?

D
 
dylanwinter said:
the rustins suggestion came from the wooden boat builders on another forum

and what does clear bathroom sealant do that is bad?

D
Click to expand...

Rustins - fairey nuff if you trust the forum.

If clear bathroom sealant was any good, Collars would use it. Sikaflex "grabs" better than a sealant - it's adhesive and sealant, and known to retain flexibility under marine conditions.
 
trusting forums

maxcampbell said:
Rustins - fairey nuff if you trust the forum.

If clear bathroom sealant was any good, Collars would use it. Sikaflex "grabs" better than a sealant - it's adhesive and sealant, and known to retain flexibility under marine conditions.
Click to expand...

trusting forums is always dangerous

we shall see on the Rustins

I hear what you say about collars

D
 
I would use the appropriate grade of Sikaflex (Sikaflex 291) for sealing - you don't want leaks! It is granted twice the price of B & Q but, in the scale of things, is £6 going to matter? Prepare all your sealing applications first so you can do them all at the same time and use a complete cartridge as it does go off. http://www.marinemegastore.com/product.asp?pf_id=BUR_170091&src=GBASE&gb_exvat=1
 
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ghostlymoron said:
I would use the appropriate grade of Sikaflex (Sikaflex 291) for sealing - you don't want leaks! It is granted twice the price of B & Q but, in the scale of things, is £6 going to matter? Prepare all your sealing applications first so you can do them all at the same time and use a complete cartridge as it does go off. http://www.marinemegastore.com/product.asp?pf_id=BUR_170091&src=GBASE&gb_exvat=1
Click to expand...

Better still don't buy it from Marine Megastore. Well, not if you want it this side of next year.
 
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