rigging help required - stainless wire ferrules.

Even Chance

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I have new 5mm uncoated stainless wire for my guardwires. I also have the thimbles, but only wire-rope clamps to hold it.
I once watched a guy machine ferrules from brass at work. He worked out the required inside diameter, and squashed the ferrule oval before sliding it over the two wires. It was an absolutely perfect fit. It was then crimped in the vice, and held very strongly. It was used for a strop for lifting barrels.
How do I work out the required diameter of the ferrule so I can machine ones here and make a bonnier job of my guardwire? Two 5mm diameter circles and the straight lines between them? Help please....

Is brass ok? I thought it would crack? What material would be better?
 
As vyv_cox says they are usually made from copper not brass. If you wanted to make some, from a quick calculation i think you would need a hole with a diameter of 8.18mm.
 
Yep, theyre the ones.

The ones that are fitted at the moment are definately copper. I have a 20mm bar of copper that I can turn down.

Thanks orangemikey, I will get onto the lathe right now and see how that diameter works out. I have a drum of 5mm stainless wire here that I can play around with.

As an ethnically correct "tight ersed Scot", I will try my damned best to make these wee beggers rather than resorting to buying them!

Hopefully back shortly with good news;)
 
The bloody wire is 4mm diameter, not 5 as I stated previously.

Is it possible to work out the hole diameter again for 4mm please?

So sorry for this.
 
Tried a 6.8mm hole just now. Couldnt find my copper bar, so tried aluminium. It didnt work. The alu relaxed after crimping in the vice, and didnt hold the wire. Will copper work any better, and will crimping in the vice be sufficient?

The guy made it look all so easy!
Off to find my copper.......
 
Hi, I made my swages from two 16mm square bars bolted together then drilled to the outside diameter of the finished swage. The copper ferrules are so cheap as to make it time consuming exercise to make them. To effect the swage I have a simple steel frame with a bottle jack in it, a cheepy 10 tonne one would easily do it. If you do make the copper ones, I would suggest forcing the machined (or drilled ) part over two 4mm bars to creat the oval hole for the doubled wire.

Re the vice idea. There are bolt together swage bars. But usually take two or more bites on all but the smallest sizes. I find a quick and dirty method is to tighten them up and then bash the halves together, tighten some more, bash etc until the gap is closed.

Oh, don't forget to thread the wire through the stanchions BEFORE doing the ends................
DW

(my first paying job, aged 7/8, was making the rigging for the family boat & kit business. 3 pence an end and splicing the rope tails to the halyards. We had a 25 tonne Talurit press then. Boats up to 27ft.)
 
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