rewire

[rob]

Can any one advise me on a good book on wiring a boat.
Mine need a revamp in that department this winter, and I am intending to comletely rewire the whole boat, but need a good guide and informative book to guide me. Any help greatly appreciated.
Regards
Rob

 

[lezgar]

THE MARINE ELECTRICAL & ELECTRONICS BIBLE
THE 12 VOLTS BIBLE FOR BOATS

I can't give a opinion because I don't read these books
You can find in www.cruisemart.co.uk

 

[steve_cronin]

Just a bit of advice:-

Buy plenty of a) Solder b) silicone grease c) self amalgamating tape d) various sizes of cable ties

Use multistrand (tinned if possible) wire and always oversize if possible.

Clip everything at short spacings - bit leave it until all is finished.

Use the highest quality & current rated components that the budget allows.

Solder all wire terminals do not rely upon "crimp" fittings. Silicone grease all push on & screw down terminals. Leave no bare metal connectors showing - bind them in self amalgamating tape.

Just a few pointers. There are several books on the subject and always the RCD of course!

Steve Cronin

 

[Guest]

Nigel Calder's book:

Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual

Very solid stuff.

 

[Guest]

When you say solder, do you mean in addition to crimping or other mechanical means?

I have have poor experience with soldered connections over the years. They always seem to induce weak points unless the soldered part cannot be mechanically stressed.

The most infamous technical failures in my life (ie the ones people remind you of 15 years later) have come as a result of soldered connections. Sad, but true.

I don't solder at all if possible (at the moment, I can't even find the trusty soldering iron I've had since I was ten years old). Making crimp connections with the proper tool seems to be OK (plus shrink sleeving, goo etc as required).

 

[steve_cronin]

Your reply seems to betray that you rely upon the solder to hold the wire in place.

If you will forgive me this is how most amateurs use solder in electrical connections. The joint should be a sound mechanical connection before it is soldered. For example a spade terminal should be crimped onto the end of the wire (pre-tinned recommended) and then multicore solder applied to the joint and heat applied by a suitable (say 30watt) iron. solder should run into the joint and run just a little into the braid of the wire. The joint should be shiney in appearance and NOT have the look of crinkled silver paper. This would indicate a "dry joint". Simply placing the wire on top of a terminal stud and running solder over it is not satisfactory and will in the circumstances you suggest eventually end in failure.

Purely crimped joints will in my experience eventually attract hidden corrosion and therefore high terminal resistance which can be the very devil to detect in the event of apparent equipment failure.

Steve Cronin

 

[Guest]

That's what I thought you meant.

As I say, I don't use solder on the boat if I can help it. Too much hassle. I have yet to have many problems with properly crimped connections, so I'll wait and see.

I have built a lot of electronics over the years, which is my main usage, but it's not my favourite occupation so maybe I'm biased.

 

[steve_cronin]

Also use:-

High Temperature Flexlite UL Wire which is tinned, very tough and available in several c/s areas (& therefore current ratings) & colours from Radiospares on http://rswww.com

Steve Cronin

 

[Guest]

The 12 volt bible, available from any good chandler is all you need.

 

[Guest]

I recently bought the Marine Electrical and Electronics Bible. It has been a great help. See http://marineelectrics.org/