Revamping work tops with Formica

[Capt. Clueless]

Really? Rolls? I've never seen it in B&Q.

Are you not confusing it with Lino?

No, I'd confused it with Fablon.

 

[superheat6k]

I used Apollo Magna which is a 6mm thick laminate layer, very similar to Corian, but only £87 for 3m x 610mm sheet, including delivery.

Easy to work using conventional wood working tools.

It looks fantastic (IMHO).

 

[pcatterall]

Looks good superheat ! The 6mm might be better to work than the 1mm Formica. I will check Corian out

 

[superheat6k]

The supplier I used was www.sheridan-uk.com

I bought through my company and got a 50% discount, against others that had quoted, so try it on.

Ensure you tell them clearly you only want the 6mm layer, not the chipboard backer of a normal worktop.

I think when you see how much genuine Corian costs you will need to sit down !

 

[Hadenough]

The supplier I used was www.sheridan-uk.com

I bought through my company and got a 50% discount, against others that had quoted, so try it on.

Ensure you tell them clearly you only want the 6mm layer, not the chipboard backer of a normal worktop.

I think when you see how much genuine Corian costs you will need to sit down !

Problem is the edge. OK if you put a fiddle on the front edge but what is the edge on the inset sink and insert?

 

[superheat6k]

Problem is the edge. OK if you put a fiddle on the front edge but what is the edge on the inset sink and insert?

I made a precise template from MDF and cut the sink hole to allow me to under mount the sink, I cut this out with a jigsaw and finished it with a router. The photo shown was before I fitted the teak fiddle rail. I did try to use a thin piece around the curved edge, but it wouldn't follow the profile - it has to sit flat.

The sink was recessed into the plywood original top beneath and sealed into place using sikaflex and I made the cut out sit exactly halfway across the raised flat rim right around the sink, so the insert sits on top of the same raised rim. I faired the top sharp edge carefully by hand with a small file just to remove the sharp corner.

The hinged lid on the hob prevented me recessing this, and the lid is essential to keep the curtains away from the burners.

This photo shows the insert piece removed

 

[d4dunmor]

I have used international decorative surfaces (ids) they have lots of depots throughout the UK
Once the laminate is rolled up small protect edges with cardboard and cover with cardboard I have sent these successfully by courier
But working on site with minimal tools will be hard as everybody knows laminate is brittle until bonded
You can also buy what's termed as a backing sheet this is usually plain white 1/3 price of standard laminate
This is used bond onto the backs of panels to protect and stop panels warping
You are going to need an edge treatment solid lippings ??
Choose the adhesive carefully ! Only used myself in kitchens up to now !

 

[Steve_N]

I've used Formica quite extensively in our boat. The local Formica agent agent recommended buying door skins as the cheapest way to get a large sheet. From memory these will roll into a tube of around 30cm in diameter. For adhesive I used a mix of West epoxy thickened with colloidal silica. In the attached pictures the toilet plinth, basin 'worktop' and headlining panel are all Formica.

Edit P.S. - the sheets can be cut with sharp scissors.

 

[d4dunmor]

I've used Formica quite extensively in our boat. The local Formica agent agent recommended buying door skins as the cheapest way to get a large sheet. From memory these will roll into a tube of around 30cm in diameter. For adhesive I used a mix of West epoxy thickened with colloidal silica. In the attached pictures the toilet plinth, basin 'worktop' and headlining panel are all Formica.

Edit P.S. - the sheets can be cut with sharp scissors.

Nice job Steve n ☺

 

[pcatterall]

Thanks all again!
I do propose to cut the sheets here at home. Fortunately the worktop has an existing 'fiddle along its length so there is no edge to worry about there. I will cut very slightly oversize and use a sanding block after gluing. There are edges exposed where the cooker top lifts out and I will sand a very slight angle ( an arris? or is that just glass?) to limit the chance of chipping. previously I think I cut the sheets with a fine saw and the sheet just overlapping a solid bench and pressure only on the down stroke. using scissors is a new idea to me, I would have thought that 1mm Formica would chip ( but I can try it on an off cut)
Regarding adhesive, I recall using 'Thix o Fix' ( ?) a thixotropic contact adhesive. It worked on various kitchens I built in the 80s and was still going strong after years of use. I will be bonding to existing Formica which I propose to abrade well to act as a key. West epoxy sounds like another option and I will appreciate any other ideas.

 

[pcatterall]

Thanks guys.... all sorted!...... bought an 8x2 sheet from ebay. Did the cutting with fine jigsaw and also a hacksaw blade ( pad saw?) which was the neatest but no good on tight corners.
It came rolled to about 1 foot diameter but will go to Spain flat ( now its in 20"x 24" bits) in a box with other goodies.

 

[rogerthebodger]

I use one of these to cut formica. less chance of splitting at the cut.