Retrofit serpentine belt kit for high capacity alternator

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I thought some hereabouts might be interested in a retrofit serpentine belt kit.

I fitted a 120A Balmar alternator to our Yanmar 4JH2E about three years ago. It is paired with a Balmar Maxcharge regulator. The alternator comes with a double vee pulley as standard but the engine, in standard form, has a single vee pulley on crankshaft and water pump. Hence it is not possible to fit a double belt without upgrading the engine pulleys. The alternator, I am told, requires about 3hp to drive it when the regulator requires it to produce high output. For example, after three days laying at anchor, our battery state is at around 75% and the alternator will initially charge at about 80A. At this load the single vee belt is at the upper end of its capacity and typically I would see black belt dust after such a charging session. I was never comfortable with that so wanted a better drive train.

I stumbled upon Electromaax serpentine belt kits, see here: http://www.electromaax.com/products/complete-marine-serpentine-pulley-kits/

It was fitted last week and, although I didn't do it myself, it seemed fairly straightforward. Our mechanic had the job done in a couple of hours. The replacement crankshaft pulley bolts over the top of existing pulley, no need to remove the existing pulley. The water pump pulley is replaced as is the alternator pulley.

The idea with the serpentine kit is that because there is a much larger surface area around the pulleys there is no belt slip so no dust. The wider belt can deal with the heavy loads of the alternator and because there is not a requirement for high belt tension (in an attempt to prevent slippage with a vee belt) the bearings on pump, crank and alternator are less stressed.

We were out at the weekend for the first try and certainly with a 60A charge on Sunday morning there was no belt dust. But that's not really a high load test, if anyone is interested I'll let you know how we get on with it when we start seeing 100A charging sessions.

Here is a picture of the completed installation: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qtoi35a7hupk6l9/serpentine kit.jpg

No connection with Electromaax - just a happy (so far) customer. Electromaax have a UK base at Wokingham and the folk there are very helpful.

It wasn't cheap, probably £400 all in and before someone says I could have done it cheaper with a pair of my wife's tights and a pulley turned out of oak on the lathe in my shed - that doesn't appeal to me thanks! Recently every post I make people seem to dismiss as nonsense because it cost over 30 bob!

Rob
 
That looks like a very nice fit of a much wider belt. My old 1997 Ford had a similar belt and present car the same. They seem to work well so I imagine it will drive the alternator nicely. Please don't criticise those who advocate old wives tights. I think cheap options are at least interesting but I certainly would not criticise you for doing it properly. Every man to his own poison. Good luck olewill
 
Please don't criticise those who advocate old wives tights. I think cheap options are at least interesting but I certainly would not criticise you for doing it properly. Every man to his own poison. Good luck olewill

Thanks Olewill. I didn't criticise those seeking cheaper alternatives, I just said that type of solution didn't appeal to me. As you say, every man to his own poison, couldn't agree more.

Rob
 
I stumbled upon Electromaax serpentine belt kits ...
Unfortunately Electromaax don't seem to do a kit for my engine (MD22P-B) and even if they did, what about the alternator pulley? Are these all a standard size?

I'm tempted to see if I can modify a set of pulleys from a car-breaker, especially as I have the added complication of a belt to a second (24V) alternator on the other side. Has anyone tried this?
 
Our boat has a 38HP three cylinder Yanmar.

It has a 110 amp Balmar alternator and regulator.

Four years ago there was evidence of belt dust and mild squealing when under load.

Since carefully adjusting the belt and checking that the regulator is set correctly the dust is no longer evident.

This is with the standard belt.
 
Since carefully adjusting the belt and checking that the regulator is set correctly the dust is no longer evident.

This is with the standard belt.

I don't doubt that; having used ours on a single belt I know it can be done. I wanted a bulletproof solution and one that would repeatedly take high loads and that I could be confident was well within capacity.
 
Thanks for the tip. They have an conversion set for Volvo 2040 as well as I see.
I must say that 700 Dollar is a price level that makes me hesitate as we have the joy additional charge because of tax as well here in Europe.
But I consider it a viable tip to replace the 60A alternator currently present.

Thanks again.
 
Also called poly vee belts supplied by Fenner but available from most power transmission / bearing suppliers.

The supplier posted seems to supply a kit for each engine which saves the design if purchased as components but you also pay for that.
 
One thing that I should add - the pulleys are different diameters to the originals; the crankshaft pulley is significantly larger. That is good inasmuch that it spins the alternator more quickly at lower engine revolutions but it does mean that the tachometer overstates engine speed. I understand that some of the later tachometers can be adjusted but not my 1995 vintage. So a conversion factor needs to be derived (or swap out the tacho for an adjustable model).

rob
 
I've yet to find anywhere where I can buy the pulleys individually.

There are heaps of suppliers if you Google (try Google advanced search). Here's an example: http://www.pte-ltd.co.uk/products.htm

Changing pulleys can be fairly straightforward...if you're very lucky. The problem arises with dished or belled pulleys, in which case you'd need a pal with a lathe and maybe welding skills. As you'll see from the above site, they're cheap as chips compared with the aftermarket kit the OP fitted.

My preference if starting from scratch would be a HTD (toothed) belt rather than a polyvee: by making the driven pulley wider than the others, the belt will self-align, making any installation that much easier. HTD belts are often used on classic competition motorcycle transmissions, so they'll easily cope with any alternator you're likely to fit.
 
I considered a similar setup as I have a spare 110A alternator in case I have a problem with the stock 80A model. It didn't seem to suit my system so kept the original and bought 110A as spare I instead of a larger model.

Could OP give some detail on his system and usage. e.g. battery capacity and type, solar/wind, type of cruising, time at anchor?
 
There are heaps of suppliers if you Google (try Google advanced search). Here's an example: http://www.pte-ltd.co.uk/products.htm

Changing pulleys can be fairly straightforward...if you're very lucky. The problem arises with dished or belled pulleys, in which case you'd need a pal with a lathe and maybe welding skills. As you'll see from the above site, they're cheap as chips compared with the aftermarket kit the OP fitted.

My preference if starting from scratch would be a HTD (toothed) belt rather than a polyvee: by making the driven pulley wider than the others, the belt will self-align, making any installation that much easier. HTD belts are often used on classic competition motorcycle transmissions, so they'll easily cope with any alternator you're likely to fit.

I'd confirm that the HTD belt did away with belt-slip, from the time I first started fitting a smart regulator.
I've run up to 120 amp alternators using this no-additional cost system.

The one thing I do like about a serpentine belt (as fitted to modern cars) is the belt tensioner and the fact that it needs very little slackening off of the alternator to get the belt on. However I see no tensioner on the system fitted as an example and would suggest that the comparison with a modern auto system is probably fallacious.
 
I'd confirm that the HTD belt did away with belt-slip, from the time I first started fitting a smart regulator.
I've run up to 120 amp alternators using this no-additional cost system.

The one thing I do like about a serpentine belt (as fitted to modern cars) is the belt tensioner and the fact that it needs very little slackening off of the alternator to get the belt on. However I see no tensioner on the system fitted as an example and would suggest that the comparison with a modern auto system is probably fallacious.
Cars have valves that get nurgled if a timing belt slips, this on a boat only drives alternator & circulation pump
 
The flat hyvo belts are the dogs bollacks, trucks have run them for years, most are changed on the year4 service which on some trucks is well over 500k.
The real old motors with v belts like my old landrovers have, req constant tinkering to stop slippage, and thats only with a 70 amp alternator, bet they would die of fright if they saw a 120 unit!
My boat has a flat belt, but its also got cross cuts on the grooves im guessing for grip when they get wet?
 
Cars have valves that get nurgled if a timing belt slips, this on a boat only drives alternator & circulation pump

I think you are both talking about different belts.
The htd is a v belt with notches/teeth in and not a cam belt as fitted to some engines, cam belts dont drive alternators.
The belts on my land rovers are the tooth type and they still wear.
Some of the smaller trucks have manual adjust hyvo belts and i think i have adjusted one on the last 7 years.
 
Cars have valves that get nurgled if a timing belt slips, this on a boat only drives alternator & circulation pump

I was not referring to the cam belt, almost universally fitted to OHC engines nowadays, but the serpentine belt which drives the ancillaries, on my last 12 cars this has had a spring-tensioner bearing on the rear face of the belt.
No doubt if you lift the bonnet of your car you'll see the same thing.
 
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