Replacing through hull fittings

Pete - apologies, I replied before seeing your post. Where do you source your magical hole cutters? Are they SDS or regular ie will they fit a regular power drill?

Funny really - I have them because I was struggling to remove the fittings on Ariam, actually just before we bought her (she was booked in to be painted immediately after the sale, so the owner agreed we could do the job before she was technically ours!). I can't remember what my plan had been, but it wasn't working. So I sent my dad, who'd popped down to help, off to the nearest B&Q to get some standard hole saws because I hadn't brought mine.

He came back with these tile cutters; I was annoyed at first. But then they turned out to work really well.

They're not SDS, just standard plain shanks that will fit in any drill.

Pete
 
In a previous thread on this topic, someone said that it's better to use sealant on the threads, as PTFE tape is normally used by plumbers on a fitting they might wish to subsequently open. They said that PTFE is excellent at reducing friction and there is the possibility of the joint unscrewing itself in the rough and tumble environment of a boat.

That makes a certain amount of sense. Technically anything is a bodge because we're putting a parallel-threaded valve on a parallel-threaded pipe, and my understanding of the BSP standard is that it demands either a fibre washer or an O ring to provide the seal in such cases. But it's completely normal practice in the leisure marine world, professional as well as DIY, to make the seal on the threads instead. Teflon tape has always worked fine for me, and I've had to cut off old fittings that were done with it and couldn't be unscrewed, but I can definitely see the argument for a combined thread-locker and sealant like some of the loctite products.

Pete
 
A simple job, I've done it on two boats now.


Buy DZR from ASAP: http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine/dzr-threaded-skin-fitting-connections . Bronze would also be ok
Pete


I wouldn't go with the bronze seacocks as the use non DZR brass for some of the parts.

"The ball is chrome plated CW617 brass. The valve shaft and packing body are brass CW617"

I've just ordered new skin fittings and seacocks from ASAP and they steered me away from the bronze seacocks for this reason.


Edit: Sorry, just read someone has already pointed the above out...
 
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