Replacing throug hulls / seacocks

I’ve just purchase Groco stuff for my thru hull replacements . Expensive yes but seems like very good quality stuff. Expect it to last a really long time.
Have previously used tru design on a yacht I’ve since sold, really good but definitely need the load bearing collars and substantially much bigger than a bronze seacock. Roughly 3 times bigger.
If you have the space great - go for them.
 
I’ve just purchase Groco stuff for my thru hull replacements . Expensive yes but seems like very good quality stuff. Expect it to last a really long time.
Have previously used tru design on a yacht I’ve since sold, really good but definitely need the load bearing collars and substantially much bigger than a bronze seacock. Roughly 3 times bigger.
If you have the space great - go for them.
I have not checked all of Groco's products but their in-line IBV valves have chromium plated brass balls. DZR valves are all made of the same alloy.
 
I presume plastic truedesign is not appropriate for engine intake in the engine bay?
Fine unless a coded boat. They’re rated to something like 500C while the hoses go soft in boiling water.
I thought likely to be easier to fit solo than the straight through style though hull
ask for help on the forum, you’d be surprised how many will be willing to turn up and have a cup of tea then help for the day.
 
Trudesign fan here, I've renewed all (including engine intake) skin fittings and seacocks with them.

I've also used the additional collars for reassurance. Easy enough to fit, but yes, they are bulky! I epoxied my skin fittings to the hull.
 
Looking at ASAP, they also offer stainless steel throughhulls and seacocks. How desirable are they?
No real benefit over DZR and possibility of crevice corrosion in the threads of through hulls and spigots. if not well sealed against seawater.
 
I’ve just purchase Groco stuff for my thru hull replacements . Expensive yes but seems like very good quality stuff. Expect it to last a really long time.
Have previously used tru design on a yacht I’ve since sold, really good but definitely need the load bearing collars and substantially much bigger than a bronze seacock. Roughly 3 times bigger.
If you have the space great - go for them.
Changed all original brass Jeanneau underwater seacocks and through hulls for bronze Groco in 2013/14. One subsequently failed, connection to ball broke. Replaced with another Groco. Another (largest) since changed for Trudesign as Groco one became ludicrously stiff to operate. So far I like Trudesign, but physically so much bigger than bronze ones so needed to reroute pipe with a 90 degree adaptor.
 
Changed all original brass Jeanneau underwater seacocks and through hulls
I don't believe Jeanneau ever used brass through hulls, even when they used brass seacocks. I believe there was a lot of confusion caused by various magazines over the issue by referring to both parts as if they were a single unit.
 
For bronze thru hulls consider also Maestrini and Guidi. If you like Trudesign you can fit their valves to bronze thru hulls. A bronze thru hull is an awful lot stronger and tougher than a plastic one and that’s what I fitted in my mini-refit. I also went for DZR valves and bronze hosetails. I have a few Trudesign too and Forespar. They are easier to turn and lighter in weight. I don’t trust them as much as the metal, especially the bronze products. Trudesign do collars for their thru hulls to boost strength.
 
I'm getting the boatyard to replace some seacocks as I have enough to do on my new to me boat. They have all seized due to lack of use and one I removed I noticed that the plating was coming of the ball part.

The yard are using DZR. I did consider specifying tru-design but I suspect that the size would have been an issue. If more seacocks become an issue in the future I will be looking at tru-design as on my last boat they just worked so easily.
 
We are replacing all our metal through hulls with Trudesign, except for the engine intake which is Forespar (existing purchase).
Having 'messed around' in this industry for over 30 years, including 15 as an engineer, I think being concerned about strength for a leisure boat application is unecessary. I have seen through hulls fail, but those have been severely corroded. I have never seen one in good condition fail on a leisure boat. I'm not saying it hasn't, couldn't or won't happen - i'm simply saying that the probability is so low it should be at the bottom of the list of concerns. Any material will be strong enough for our intended use, provided it is looked after and therefore just go with budget or preference - mine is composite :cool:
 
I’ve not started this through hull replacement project yet, but thought before I started I’d do a test to see how brittle the seacocks are.

This morning I’ve give a sample a decently sharp hit with a hammer and none broke off / shattered or so much as moved. Are there any other non destructive tests I can / should do before leaving as they are for another year?
 
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