Replacing teak veneer on hatch boards

[dulcibella]

One of my Rustler's two hatch boards has an area on the exterior surface in which the teak veneer has been destroyed and the grain of the marine ply core is showing through. I'd like to sand it flat and clean, re-veneer, seal and re-varnish the exterior surface. I'm not after a furniture-maker's finish, just something decent-looking and durable. I'd appreciate guidance on materials and techniques.

 

[Tranona]

You can buy veneers from Robbins timber or from a variety sources - google the term for a list. Re-veneering flat panels requires some means of applying pressure while the adhesive cures such as clamping a board over the panel. Make sure your finished thickness will still slide in the runners. Finish with your own choice of coating - personally I would use International Woodskin if they are exposed to the weather.

You may find it easier to just replace them with either new teak faced ply or Polycarbonate.

 

[saltylegs]

I have used Vale Vaneer in the past http://www.woodveneeruk.co.uk/
They have lots of variety including Iron on sheets that you use with a type of sheet glue,
I found them a bit awkward but the normal sheet veneer that is attached with contact adhesive worked well on larger areas such as chart table and locker doors.

 

[pmagowan]

It depends on a number of things. You can glue with epoxy, contact adhesive, wood glue et al. The key is to get even pressure throughout. Contact adhesive achieves this by being more or less dry when you stick it on so that you can apply the pressure with a roller from inside to out. Bubbles are a risk and most contact adhesives struggle when exposed to damp.

Epoxy is a good choice. The west system website gives an excellent guide on how to use it for such an application. Clamping pressure needs to be applied evenly for long enough to let it cure. This can be done using something flexible to diffuse the pressure and then a lot of clamps. Another ply board sheet may suffice, or lots of weights. Alternatively you can just put the whole thing in a plastic bag and apply a vacuum. This applies significant pressure evenly.

Once it is stuck down then you need to put some work in sanding and sealing. A router can be used to trim the veneer, there are specific bits for this. Epoxy can be used again but it is not UV stable and so requires a few coats of regular varnish to protect it. You can add a UV stabiliser but I would still use varnish. Be careful to seal the end grain and any fittings such as screws and trim nails.

Finally, find out why it had so much wear in this area. You might need to add tread, a fair lead for a rope or just extra varnish for the UV protection.

 

[bluerm166]

Had this same issue with washboards,particularly at bottom corners, and in my case used a layer of 4/5mm marine ply bedded to the old face with epoxy,forming a rebate at the edges to the channel.Epoxy fills edges very effectively where original face imperfect.
Yes increases weight but also strength.

 

[Ruffles]

Normally wash boards are made from ply veneered both sides and solid timber at the sides where they wear. The new veneer will extend to the sides and tend to get damaged?

Might be easier to make new. You just need to order the timber from Robbins or wherever. And you can use the old boards for Winter! It took me less than a day.

You'll need a plug cutter set for the sides.