Replacing skin fittings and sea-cocks?

RogerMayne said:
http://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/ rothenberger 70525 rogrip m 10in pump plier or http://www.oxtools.co.uk/pro-adjustable-wrench-extra-wide-jaw.html should do it
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Pretty certain that neither of the above would have worked on the 2" valve I replaced. I took a fair bit of effort to get wrench in correct place and then get it moving. Access was very poor and I don't think the "extra wide" version would find the face in correct place to get even a partial turn. The other set look too wimpy for my setup.

I'd start with a Stillson and look around for something else if that won't work. It looks as if Nigel's setup is roomier than mine so he might have more options. Doesn't matter much if you chew up the old fitting a bit on removal. New fitting won't be as tight going in.
 
Also planning to do some of mine this haul-out. My concern is sealing the ball valve to the skin fitting and the hose tail to the valve. If I use PTFE tape (which should be fine) the only way to find out is when re-launched. What are you going to do? Trust the tape or use a sealant?
 
When I asked the question the consensus opinion was to use Sikaflex. That's what I did and so far no issues.
 
Putting new ones on my boat tomorrow. I have got some loctite 55 pipe sealing cord, which according to everything I read is superior to PTFE. There is a video on the Loctite site. £5 for small roll on ebay
 
Hallberg Rassy recommended Loctite 275 ( high strength, high viscosity, large threads threadlocker ) . If you need to dismantle something only use a heatgun to soften the sealant, clean the area and use .

You can position the tail and ball valve to the correct angle by hand whilst the Loctite 275 is fluid ( it didn't require the mating halves to be screwed up to the end ) - after 10 mins it's solid and water tight.

Kevin
 
Mistroma said:
Pretty certain that neither of the above would have worked on the 2" valve I replaced. I took a fair bit of effort to get wrench in correct place and then get it moving. Access was very poor and I don't think the "extra wide" version would find the face in correct place to get even a partial turn. The other set look too wimpy for my setup.

I'd start with a Stillson and look around for something else if that won't work. It looks as if Nigel's setup is roomier than mine so he might have more options. Doesn't matter much if you chew up the old fitting a bit on removal. New fitting won't be as tight going in.
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I used the Rothenbergers (two sets)to replace my skin fittings and seacocks earlier this year and their grip and leverage was perfect for the job.
 
I used a box spanner when I replaced a heads skin fitting a year or so ago. Relatively inexpensive, provided the ideal access and torque in the awkward space. Purchased from toolstop I think.
 
Tried the Loctite 275 to seal the ball valves to through hulls, what a disaster!

Had no trouble with the 3/4 bsp one but the 1 1/2 was another story. I was very careful making sure the threads were clean, fitting dry and double checking. After applying the loctite the valve only went halfway down the thread before it started to stiffen. I had to put the stillsons on it and pull so hard the previously solid through hull started to turn.

According to loctite's site it has a cure time of 7 minutes on brass. I couldn't have taken more that two before it started to go off.
The only way I can get it back off is heat which might damage the valve or grinding the skin fitting. Even then I will probably have to use heat to remove the tail. A warning to others if you are going to use a threadlocker use something with a longer cure period!
 
smithy said:
Tried the Loctite 275 to seal the ball valves to through hulls, what a disaster!

Had no trouble with the 3/4 bsp one but the 1 1/2 was another story. I was very careful making sure the threads were clean, fitting dry and double checking. After applying the loctite the valve only went halfway down the thread before it started to stiffen. I had to put the stillsons on it and pull so hard the previously solid through hull started to turn.

According to loctite's site it has a cure time of 7 minutes on brass. I couldn't have taken more that two before it started to go off.
The only way I can get it back off is heat which might damage the valve or grinding the skin fitting. Even then I will probably have to use heat to remove the tail. A warning to others if you are going to use a threadlocker use something with a longer cure period!
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Dry fit the seacock to make sure it "looks in the right direction" when tight, disassemble & apply sealant & re tighten, it might be easier to file off the skin fitting end to get the seacock facing the correct way .
 
I did that, had the whole thing dry fitted correctly it was just the loctite started to cure although the valve still had another three turns to go before being in its proper position.
 
smithy said:
Tried the Loctite 275 to seal the ball valves to through hulls, what a disaster!

Had no trouble with the 3/4 bsp one but the 1 1/2 was another story. I was very careful making sure the threads were clean, fitting dry and double checking. After applying the loctite the valve only went halfway down the thread before it started to stiffen. I had to put the stillsons on it and pull so hard the previously solid through hull started to turn.

According to loctite's site it has a cure time of 7 minutes on brass. I couldn't have taken more that two before it started to go off.
The only way I can get it back off is heat which might damage the valve or grinding the skin fitting. Even then I will probably have to use heat to remove the tail. A warning to others if you are going to use a threadlocker use something with a longer cure period!
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When I replaced original builder-fitted brass seacocks this spring I used the same Sikaflex for the through-hull as for sealing the threads and locating the angle of the seacock handle. No practical access for a spanner on a lock-nut. Seems fine. As the fittings I put on were bronze I hope not to do the job again anytime soon. I ended up having to cut off all but one of the old through-hulls as access for spanners was so tight. The originals had very clearly been fitted before any furniture had been put into the boat - probably long before the deck was even stuck on.
 
vyv_cox said:
The sealant used was the one advised by Hallberg Rassy. Their comments were quite scathing about the use of Sikaflex, which many people use very successfully. Not the first example of H-R's questionable knowledge concerning seacocks.
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So are you saying that their advice about Loctite 275 is wrong also?

What about the sealant between the fitting and the hull?
 
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