replacing perspex in a lewmar forehatch

saltyrob

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The perspex in my forehatch is crazed due to uv.l have a replacement piece of perspex and would be grateful for any information/advice on removing the existing glazing and fitting the new.

Many thanks

Rob

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pete

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Hi
I removed the toughened glass and resealed it on my fore hatch this year (made by Houdini marine) after removing the hatch, under the hinge there was a split in the frame and with a bit of care and patience we sprang it apart and removed the glass.
hope this helps
Pete

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john_morris_uk

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Some hatches have the polycarbonate sheet just stuck in with Sika Flex or similar. I removed one a few days ago to tighten the hinge screws. Run a stanley knife round the join and lever carefully) Clean the old sealant off (mechanically ie with a scraper, but try not to scratch or damage anything) To fit the new one, check the fit and then apply a layer of sealant, press the new perspex/polycarb in place and fill in the edges with more sealant. Smooth off with a cloth/kitchen roll and white spirit. The white spirit acts as a lubricant - not as a solvent by the way, and Sika flex gets everywhere. When it is set, as far as you and I are concerned, there is no known solvent for Sika Flex so be careful... You need lots of rag/kitchen roll and sometimes its best to scape any large excess of first before you start smoothing and finishing.

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anabel

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Couple of years ago I had to do this job as a result of badly crazed & slightly cracked forehatch. Remove the old polycarbonate or perspex with aid of strong sharp knife. Doesn't matter if you break it. Make sure not to damage or scratch the frame. Clean thoroughly (essential). Bed new polycarbonate in with Sika Flex or, as I used, Seal and Bond (made by German company called Wurth). Clean off any sealant that is squeezed out. Like other post says, have rolls of kitchen paper to clean up mess as it seems to get everywhere. Very difficult to clean it off after it cures. Place some sort of weight on top to hold it in place. Not too heavy otherwise it will squeeze out too much sealant. Leave it for day or so until it has cured. When I did this job I used a polyc. that was 2 mm thicker than the old one. (12mm tinted instead of 10mm). Very expensive. Afterwards I figured out a new hatch (opening section) would have cost very little more.
Good luck with project.
EH

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saltyrob

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Thank you for all your advice.Am I right in assuming that the glazing is held in place by the Silaflex or similar sealant.Also is there a particular type of Silaflex or similar which should be used.First time I have done this job.

Many thanks

Robert



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Johnjo

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I have just recently fitted a Lewmar hatch, on the box it stated that the glass/plastic whatever panes, can be relaced in minutes without the use of sealants.
Having never done the job myself I am not in a position to give advice, but could be worth a look at the link below before proceeding !...

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://lewmar.com/webspares/index.asp>http://lewmar.com/webspares/index.asp</A>

regards mike

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Boathook

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I renewed the perspex in mu giot? hatches a few years back. The uk agent supplied an etching agent for the perspex and 3M 3200 sealant for the bonding. Looked like new except that the aluminum frame was 20 years old. Cost a few quid to do but cheaper than replacements. Most other comments in this thread I used to remove and replace the perspex.

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