replacing my Turbo

[simonfraser]

on a KAD 44 EDC 2000

can see how the side fitting come off, exhaust elbow and exit to the intercooler

there is a central pipe connector with nuts on, red arrow, which are easily accessible
however there is a further set under the central shaft of the turbo, blue arrow, can't quite see how i am going to undo that ?

the top nuts that fix the turbo to the engine block are no problem, but again there is a matching pair below the fitting, the access to that is poor too, how am i going to undo that ?

& any further problems that i have not seen yet ?

 

[petem]

What's wrong with the old one Simon?

 

[simonfraser]

it's rusted to bits due to a leaking exhaust elbow, 20 yrs old.
i am suspecting the lack of top end revs is due to a lack of boost.

installing a boost gauge this week, but it looks v. poorly, BruceK has seen a pic.

 

[petem]

Did you try new props yet?

 

[Mr Googler]

With difficulty!

It is possible. I used a short socket for the oil return line (lower small pipe) and ring spanner for the 2 lower turbo to exhaust manifold bolts. It’s easier if you can attack it from the side reaching around the back. I undid the oil lines from the side of the engine block too and the small bracket half way up the pipes holding them together so they had some movement then slid the turbo out the back.

Buy new turbo....I wouldn’t bother with a rebuild again.

Don’t forget to drain coolant out of the turbo first

 

[BruceK]

I think we have discussed this before. It's such a simple job that is so difficult to perform. Need two elbows, lots of plasters for skinned knuckles, the dexterity of a forger and a 44 gallon drum as a swear box. Goodluck. You will work it out. Putting the new one on is worse. Make that 3 x 44 gallon drums.

 

[BruceK]

one tip I can give. Dont bend the oil pipe below too much for clearance. Makes it a pig to relocate. Get a magnet on a long rod. You will drop the bolts into the dark recesses of the bilge many times.

 

[Divemaster1]

Is the pipe below flexible ??

Of so loosen the clamp (or trace to source joint and disconnect) and remove unit with pipe connected ..

 

[Mr Googler]

Is the pipe below flexible ??

Of so loosen the clamp (or trace to source joint and disconnect) and remove unit with pipe connected ..

The lower return pipe is solid but has a short rubber section (37) so will move however...the feed line is solid and bolted both ends and the 2 are clamped together. These lines run amongst various rubber hoses so taking them out attached to turbo whilst possible if you have clearance above the turbo...would be awkward. On mine, the deck is 60cm or so above the top of the turbo so no chance.

I’ve only done this job once so someone like VP may well have a better method. Just sharing what I discovered.

 

[Divemaster1]

OK ... worth a try ..

...could you get in from the outside with a half-moon ratchet spanner / wrench ?? Used that successfully before on awkward spaces ...

 

[tico]

For the 2x on the main flange, you WILL need a conventional ring spanner. A ratchet one or an open ended one have too large a head to fit.

 

[simonfraser]

tnx guys, recon this is going to be joint effect, sorry about the pun, do this to make the mechanics job easier / quicker:

1) drain some coolant, or fill / mop it up after ?
2) remove the exhaust elbow
3) remove no. 14
4) anything else ?

(yes will buy a new turbo and various gaskets)

 

[Mr Googler]

If a mechanic is doing it....don’t do anything!

They are the pro’s

Coolant has to be drained from the turbo at least or you risk having coolant run into the exhaust manifold and into a cylinder with an open valve. I drained a bit from the manifold too....just to be sure.

 

[lynallbel]

If you can remove turbo complete with pipes attached, swap pipes onto new turbo and refit.

 

[Adethefridge]

Don’t get the bolts mixed up, from memory the oil clamp bolt is a few mm shorted than the other two, and the threaded hole is blind so the longer bolts ground out before forming a oil tight seal, also some turbos are supplied complete with all gaskets and even a syringe of oil.

 

[simonfraser]

tnx, yet again it pays to ask 'dumb' questions, avoiding some pitfalls by the sounds of it.

i'll leave it all to the mechanic.
will strip the cabin and remove various covers, that will save me some beer tokens.
have a VP quote which is about 15% more than the local yard using a new turbo without green paint.

fitting the turbo boost gauge tomorrow, and will bore you all with those details

 

[petem]

tnx, yet again it pays to ask 'dumb' questions, avoiding some pitfalls by the sounds of it.

i'll leave it all to the mechanic.
will strip the cabin and remove various covers, that will save me some beer tokens.
have a VP quote which is about 15% more than the local yard using a new turbo without green paint.

fitting the turbo boost gauge tomorrow, and will bore you all with those details

What are the part prices Simon (OEM and aftermarket)?

 

[Mr Googler]

What are the part prices Simon (OEM and aftermarket)?

The turbo will be the same Borg Warner unit either way.

 

[DavidJ]

Take the opportunity to replace all the coolant. I replaced the turbos on my KAD43 with new ones last year and put in new coolant (for the first time in 17 years!)
Also good to have brand new engine oil for the new turbos. I’m sure you will prime them first as per instructions.

 

[simonfraser]

The turbo will be the same Borg Warner unit either way.

1100 without green paint, 1350 with (inc VAT)
VP service agents will only install VP parts
I am not convinced about the engineering of a local yard, who will do whatever i ask for, so will pay the extra

If there were no oil lines / tricky connectors, i might attempt the swop myself, but some things are worth paying for