Replacing Life Lines

[Neeves]

I agree dyneema hollow tape as a chafe cover would be an excellent answer to the dyneema being cut by a spinnaker, or other headsail, sheet. I suspect its an expensive option and an expense that many might reject. I'd also worry that if the cover was cut you might not see what is happening 'inside' and the issue is when the spinnaker is deployed long term, like days, on a blue water ocean race. When we did RORC 4-6 days races we might have a spinnaker deployed continuously for 48 hours.

We have had 6mm dyneema (Liros) lifelines for over 5 years now, but we don't fly a spinnaker and the sheet for our screecher (Code Zero like) is much higher than for a spinnaker. We attached to the original components used for the stainless steel lifelines using a halyard knot and simply tightening using the bottle screw.

I would agree that dyneema does not 'feel' as robust as stainless and certainly not as robust as stainless tube. But we largely sail flat and if its boisterous I demand that visits to the foredeck are accomplished on hands and knees with a lifeline and harness being used.

Lifelines, to my mind, are not a Zimmer frame, nor a fence to hang onto nor climb over, but a net to catch you (along with your tether) if you are flung or washed along the deck. If you want hand holds - install dedicated hand holds (or solid guard rails) in the appropriate places. I thus reject the idea that one can call them 'guard rails'. Roger has guard rails, hollow stainless tube - I would never class either stainless steel wire nor dyneema in this application as a 'rail', line yes. I'm quite happy to be criticised as being pedantic and incorrect

Jonathan

 

[rogerthebodger]

What I omitted to say was that I feel that without this high tension loading on the s/s rigging rod used as a guardwire, it will very quickly be bent into ugly looking shapes due to its not having the flexibility of the wire it is replacing.

I'm not saying that the rod has no tension but not the high tension that rod rigging needs.

For the rod to have a permanent bend the force must cause the stress to exceed the yield stress point but each to his own.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

I Must admit I hate wire or rope lifelines.

This is because when you grab then to climb over or brace yourself the lifelines wobble about to make me feel safe. They are also generally too low so then to tip you over.

You're not supposed to grab the lifelines/guardrails as this compromises the integrity of the stanchion-to-deck joint. The correct place to find support is at the shrouds.

 

[rogerthebodger]

You're not supposed to grab the lifelines/guardrails as this compromises the integrity of the stanchion-to-deck joint. The correct place to find support is at the shrouds.

I agree with that but how many people climb aboard or worse fend off a bot by using the life lines. It the first thing people see and the closest to hand.

My stanchion bases are welded to a steel deck but the flexing cracks the paint which starts to rust which I have to keep up with.

My boat was designed with high life lines and a chain access gate and step so the use of the life lines to get on board is discouraged. Maybe I should attach and electric fence energizer to discourage fending off by the life lines. Then the boat will just crash into the dock while everyone just watches.

 

[dansaskip]

To avoid chafing of lines and sheets I don't know why more people don't fit shroud rollers - they work on lifelines as well as shrouds.

 

[peter gibbs]

I gave up with metal lines a long time ago- I now use flat webbing from Jimmy Green which I replace every several years. Biggest benefit is your feet don’t roll on the wire - when things get lively not slipping is important. I like the dyneema idea too.

Quite right. Metal jack stays have no advantages over webbing whose condition is immediately verifiable. Whilst setting up safety lines why not ensure anchorage for the harness at the mast and a line under the boom as a hand hold when going forward.

PWG