Replacing Holly/Teak Sole board

[Sailfree]

I would suggest that you buy a sheet of 9mm mdf, and use this to make template boards as it cheap and easy to cut / replace if you mess up.

Once you have the MDF template boards ready, then lay them out on the plywood and mark round them for the boards you want. Then cut away from the line leaving 1cm or so all the way round. Finally clamp the new board and the template MDF together and use a bearing guided router bit to cut the board to the same size as the template.

Thanks good idea. It's only a few of the boards that I need to make bigger to achieve a better fit/appearance. I was going to add ply to u/s of existing to get perfect shape for use as template but I think your suggestion is better. I can do the straight long cut using the existing floor to get the holly strips to line up then use MDF template for important shaped edge. I was intending to leave a small gap but a consistent one! Not variable as at present! Other thought is to finally insert a cork edging sealing strip say 4mm thick. Any opinions on cork sealing strip?

Thanks.

I am sure on the next Cherbourg Scuttlebutt Cruise my efforts will be critically examined by other formites so no pressure there then!

 

[rob2]

Although the sole on my boat is solid timber, the lifting hatches to access the bilges are an exact fit and it suddenly occured to me that it could also be achieved with a ply board. The holes and the edges of the hatches are slightly bevelled such that the hatch settles to the right height and there is no gap. Can't advise on the merits of various makes of tools, but would advise that you take every oportunity to test them out on scrap ply. I've often found that the splintered bottom edge is no problem as it needs to be chamfered to prevent it hanging up in use and it's better for sealing that way. Even the top edge is better with the edge broken for better adhesion of he finish.

Rob.

 

[srp]

I'm very happy for you. While I have no doubt about your skills I still say that, no matter how accurately you cut and how perfect the finish, the end result will still be an imitation of the real thing. At the end of the day it's your money, your boat and your call. I only offered an opinion that you are free to disregard without causing me any anguish or sleepless nights.

There is absolutely no reason why someone with some decent tools and some skill can't replicate, or even improve upon, the standard of joinery found in a boat like a Jeanneau. How do you think it was done in the first place?

Sailfree - I suggest you look at the smallest Festool router (the OF1010) - along with a guide rail adaptor it will fit the existing guide rail you have for your saw to help with both the plain edges and the rebated cutouts. Some bearing guided cutters (I can recommend Wealden Tools, very high quality cutters for a good price) plus an mdf template or your existing floor panel to sort out the curves without splintering.

For the finish, I would use Osmo PolyX - extremely hard wearing and easy to maintain in the future. Easy to apply with a rag, and gives a nice satin sheen.

 

[northwind]

There is absolutely no reason why someone with some decent tools and some skill can't replicate, or even improve upon, the standard of joinery found in a boat like a Jeanneau. How do you think it was done in the first place?

Sailfree - I suggest you look at the smallest Festool router (the OF1010) - along with a guide rail adaptor it will fit the existing guide rail you have for your saw to help with both the plain edges and the rebated cutouts. Some bearing guided cutters (I can recommend Wealden Tools, very high quality cutters for a good price) plus an mdf template or your existing floor panel to sort out the curves without splintering.

For the finish, I would use Osmo PolyX - extremely hard wearing and easy to maintain in the future. Easy to apply with a rag, and gives a nice satin sheen.

+1 for Osmo and Wealden tools.

 

[vyv_cox]

I appreciate that the OP wants to have wooden sole boards but I feel I have to defend laminate ones. The previous owner of my boat replaced the original timber boards with laser cut laminate ones just before he sold the boat to me. They looked good then and still look just the same 20 years later, despite absolutely no maintenance. Eminently practical and hard wearing: my only criticism is that they are rather slippery when wet, solved with a couple of non-slip strips.

 

[Sailfree]

I appreciate that the OP wants to have wooden sole boards but I feel I have to defend laminate ones. The previous owner of my boat replaced the original timber boards with laser cut laminate ones just before he sold the boat to me. They looked good then and still look just the same 20 years later, despite absolutely no maintenance. Eminently practical and hard wearing: my only criticism is that they are rather slippery when wet, solved with a couple of non-slip strips.

Appreciate all the suggestions including yours - together they give me the best chance of achieving a good standard.

We looked at both the laminate and wood veneers at SIBS. The advantage with the laminate is that I could buy in as a veneer and just sand down existing - however once we compared them on the Robbins (Bristol) stand it had to be wood which cannot be bought as just a veneer has to be on backing ply.

 

[stav]

Did a similar job to my westerly but to replace the blue carpet! I started of with a CAD drawing made 6mm mdf templates, adjusted these to fit the boat how I wanted them to.

Cut the veneered ply with a jigsaw roughly to shape with the plywood face down so any chips would be underneath. Then used a flush trim router cutter with a top guide. For the bigger areas I was surprised to find how much the holly stripes varied on the sheet so split the area (run) in to two parts by cutting a teak strip and putting it in at 90 degrees to the rest so the slight mismatch of a few millimetres of the strip does not show.

Hope that makes sense. I did have a few pictures but cannot find them.

Good luck with it.

 

[GrahamM376]

What model number please and what blade eg laminate or one for wood veneers tpi?

Don't know the model no. as it's not here with me. The other one I have here and used for around 15 - 20 years is a 4300BV.

 

[Sailfree]

Did a similar job to my westerly but to replace the blue carpet! I started of with a CAD drawing made 6mm mdf templates, adjusted these to fit the boat how I wanted them to.

Cut the veneered ply with a jigsaw roughly to shape with the plywood face down so any chips would be underneath. Then used a flush trim router cutter with a top guide. For the bigger areas I was surprised to find how much the holly stripes varied on the sheet so split the area (run) in to two parts by cutting a teak strip and putting it in at 90 degrees to the rest so the slight mismatch of a few millimetres of the strip does not show.

Hope that makes sense. I did have a few pictures but cannot find them.

Good luck with it.

Where did you source your teal & holly sheets from please?

 

[stav]

Seem to recall they where from Robbins, but that was a few years ago. I would buy again as v helpful and willing to help get stuff to Jersey, when for many it is too much to ask.

 

[Sailfree]

Seem to recall they where from Robbins, but that was a few years ago. I would buy again as v helpful and willing to help get stuff to Jersey, when for many it is too much to ask.

Thanks I will buy all together - Probably 2 or 3 number of 20mm thick 2.4m veneered sheets. Will put them end on end to ensure holy strips line up as good as possible before collection

Advice on here is invaluable.

Thanks