Replacing Gate Valves

[Guest]

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Tip I was given was don't push it hard up against its stops - either open or closed . When open always back off a half turn. Seems to avoid getting jammed one way or another

[/ QUOTE ] Yes sound advice and standard practice on industrial installations with gate valves. either opening or closing just back off a fraction. Does not have to be as much as half a turn.

Gatevalves operated now and then should sieze up no more than seacocks or ball valves.

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On the older tankers with manual valves ... it was common that ab's cadets etc. would slam down and give that last jerk to the valve at closed ... thinking that made it secure and closed. In fact all it did was to mark the valve seat and mean the valve needed to be slammed shut all the time. Worst was on flexiseal valves .......... they were designed to replace "two valve" systems where different products are seperated by two valves. The flexiseal ... exactly as the name implies ... didn't take long to be destoyed by "gorillas" ...

Full open valves ... standard practice to back of from the stop - for emergency closing if nothing else ...

 

[Spyro]

No. They look fine. Just all the scaremongers got me worried.
My boat does have Blakes seacock for the heads inlet and outlet and also cockpit drains. I would agree that they are the dogs b&%$^&"$. and after almost 30 years service they are still going strong.
My philosophy is that I could replace ball valves (that need no maintenance) ten times over for the price of Blakes valves.

 

[PIGLETSDREAM]

Hi John, still using the Neptune planner you sold me. Where would I get these ball valves from?

 

[john_morris_uk]

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Hi John, still using the Neptune planner you sold me. Where would I get these ball valves from?

[/ QUOTE ]ASAP Supplies or a good chandler?