Replacing acoustic engine-space lining

R

RichardPerou

Well-Known Member
Joined
6 Mar 2002
Messages
638
Visit site
The old black eggbox lining has given up the ghost and cannot be tolerated any more.

Please would someone with experience of this job advise me;-

1. What to use.

2. How to do it.
 
Use the best you can afford from suppliers such as Halyard Marine or Vetus. There is a huge amount of work in fitting so don't skimp on materials. Best to take the engine out, strip everything off the bulkheads and panels and stick the new insulation on with impact adhesive - the contract stuff, not the one in the sheds. Messy, horrible, smelly job and you need to get all the joins well sealed, but worth it.

Realise taking the engine out is a big job, but you will find it difficult to fit around existing bits, and surfaces have to be clean for the adhesive to work properly.
 
did this a few years ago one tip, do not use gaffer tape but the real silver stuff.
I used gaffer tape and it slowly gave up the ghost and I had to remove and clean down and stick joints with the proper tape.
 
I got mine from Elessar of this parish.

There are two basic types of soundproofing, blocking and absorbing.

Blocking stuff blocks the sound and usually has lead in it to stop the sound going any further. It's heavy and expensive, but works well.

Absorbing stuff soaks up the sound, so there is less sound bouncing around. This is the eggbox foam, it's a lot cheaper and will let sound pass through it (albeit at a lower lever)

Use the lead lined stuff where the engine compartment is next to the living space, use absorbing where it isn't.

Around the engine get faced soundproofing so any oil etc can be wiped off. I went for the Noisekiller self adhesive stuff.
 
I used Vetus stuff which is great and used an automotive spray adhesive, which again was great - cheaper than anything with 'marine' on the label and very simple and quick.
 
Thank you

Thank you for the response.

To nag on, the job that concerns me most is preparation. Underneath the old stuff is lots of yellow, old adhesive. What is the easiest way to remove it, hot air gun, a magic fluid.

Practical advice please
 
ASAP

Did mine a few years ago using Quietlife products.

Used their spray adhesive. Note what they say about mechanical fixing - I found it OK on verticals but needed to use their fixings on overheads.

Details here.
 
RichardPerou said:
What is the easiest way to remove it, hot air gun, a magic fluid.

Practical advice please
Click to expand...

An old chisel, a wire brush, a cushion and some calming music:)

My old insulation pulled off in chunks, then I used a chisel on the flat bits, and a wire brush to get the bits and old adhesive off.

Get an old cushion for your knees, you'll be on them a long time.

It also depends on what you're going to put on afterwards.
 
I did most of my engine compartment with a material 25mm thick, silver foil with fabric overlay on one side, two laminations of a dense black foam and a lead 'sandwich' in the middle. The difference in the sound levels is remarkable!

Well worth the effort. I didn't take out the engine but worked where I could around fittings and fixings.
 
RichardPerou said:
Thank you for the response.

To nag on, the job that concerns me most is preparation. Underneath the old stuff is lots of yellow, old adhesive. What is the easiest way to remove it, hot air gun, a magic fluid.

Practical advice please
Click to expand...

Use one of these:http://www.axminster.co.uk/fein-fein-fmm-250q-multimaster-select-plus-prod829124/

I think Bosch have a film showing their version lifting old stuck down carpet online somewhere.

The Fein is expensive but Bosch do a "Green" for around £60

Martin
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top