Replacing a monoblock sink tap

[Skylark]

For the second time in a little over a year, a sink tap in the heads has developed a drip/leak. I've been told by the Spares Supplier I used last time that replacement cartridges are no longer available.

It therefore seems that my only option is to replace the tap. I'll either need to rent a small child or enrol upon a contortionist course.

This is the tap; it takes a 25mm diameter cartridge.

This is a view from the underside

Before I look for a new tap, I have a couple of questions for anyone with relevant experience.........

Assuming that I can find a similar, 32mm outside diameter, tap, is it likely to have a "standard" method of fitting to the sink? Any special tools required to remove the old one and refit a new one?

The tap braded hose is 10mm dia and has 17mm AF fittings. These seem to thread into the blue plastic connectors which in turn connect into the white fittings. Anyone recognise this assembly, how are they disassembled?

Any relevant, more general information would be appreciated, too

 

[pvb]

I'd start by hunting around for a cartridge!

If you really can't find one and have to replace the whole tap, it's a fairly easy job. They almost all use the same method of fitting. The tap is held tight to the worktop by a single bolt, with a horseshoe-shaped clamp underneath. It looks like yours might have an O-ring under the clamp to stop it slipping.

The braided hoses screw into the tap body and have O-ring seals. It's important not to over-tighten them. You should be able to unclip the white fittings from the main hot and cold supply, unscrew the hoses from the old tap, screw them into the new tap, and re-attach the white fittings.

But I would really search for a replacement cartridge, because it's much easier and cheaper. Try a Google search for single lever ceramic mixer tap cartridge 25mm - you'll find lots of possible products.

 

[wrr]

The tap unit is held down by the horseshoe-like metal bracket. There should be a nut on the threaded stud that extends downwards from the tap unit. This is undone using a long box spanner, usually sold as a monobloc spanner set! I am not familiar with the blue/white connectors but they look like push-fit connectors which can be released by pressure on the lower part of the fitting. A caravan accessory shop might be the best bet for a tap unit of similar diameter, which will be fitted using the stud and horseshoe arrangement. Make sure to fit the appropriate seals on the new unit to prevent drips coming though from the sink surface. Good luck!

 

[lw395]

Some of those ceramic valve taps are only any good for high pressure systems, they are prone to dripping more with lower pressure, as it's the supply pressure that makes them seal. Read the small print and choose carefully.

 

[pvb]

Some of those ceramic valve taps are only any good for high pressure systems, they are prone to dripping more with lower pressure, as it's the supply pressure that makes them seal. Read the small print and choose carefully.

Almost all ceramic valve taps are designed for mains water pressure, which in the UK is typically 2-3 bar - exactly the same as most popular boat water pressure pumps.

 

[Daverw]

When we changed ours, similar awkward location, the long flex hoses were fitted to the tap and then pushed down, made at loads easier, the tap fitted with a long stud, also fitted before tap pushed down had an extended nut which helped reach but had to do it tight blind by feel. The hot and cold pipes then fitted easily as they were lower down.

I would try and find a tap both tap washers rather than ceramic as already said the low pressure does not help

 

[scotty123]

For the second time in a little over a year, a sink tap in the heads has developed a drip/leak. I've been told by the Spares Supplier I used last time that replacement cartridges are no longer available.

It therefore seems that my only option is to replace the tap. I'll either need to rent a small child or enrol upon a contortionist course.

This is the tap; it takes a 25mm diameter cartridge.

This is a view from the underside

Before I look for a new tap, I have a couple of questions for anyone with relevant experience.........

Assuming that I can find a similar, 32mm outside diameter, tap, is it likely to have a "standard" method of fitting to the sink? Any special tools required to remove the old one and refit a new one?

The tap braded hose is 10mm dia and has 17mm AF fittings. These seem to thread into the blue plastic connectors which in turn connect into the white fittings. Anyone recognise this assembly, how are they disassembled?

Any relevant, more general information would be appreciated, too

Try Screwfix.

 

[Yngmar]

Standard household tap with standard household connectors (watch out, they come in two sizes, yours appears to be the smaller one, whichever that is). Then some adapters to the Whale Quickconnect couplings on the boat. Single nut on a threaded rod holds the assembly thing, easy to replace with one hand by feel only, no need to jam your head in there. A small shaving mirror or mobile phone with camera can be helpful.

Our taps are from Lidl, who do various types a few times a year and have been troublefree for several years of continuous liveaboard use now.

 

[Skylark]

Many thanks for the replies.

These are the cartridges. The correct version is the darker plastic. I've bought a "new" replacement, which doesn't fit, as it has a different bottom seal shape. Note that they both have a top o-ring seal, too. Not many of those shown from a Google search have the top seal.

The boat water pressure is not the problem. The boat has a galley monobloc tap, 2 x heads sink and 2 x shower monoblocks.

I don't know how tightly these cartridges should be installed. I don't have, cant find, a 2-pin, C spanner to tighten the top nut. I've been using a pair of external circlip pliers but these tend to slip a lot so the leak could be operator error! I bought a C spanner to change disc on an angle grinder but the lugs were too large and/or pins not long enough. I've looked at a watch back removal tool but I don't think the length of pins is enough. Any ideas as to where I can buy a suitable C spanner?

I've looked at Screwfix site but cant see a 25mm cartridge with correct shape bottom seal and a top o-ring seal.

I haven't yet found anything similar/suitable from a caravan assessory shop/website but I'll keep looking.

 

[lw395]

Almost all ceramic valve taps are designed for mains water pressure, which in the UK is typically 2-3 bar - exactly the same as most popular boat water pressure pumps.

But boats frequently have the pumps switched off, which is when the rot sets in.

 

[MoodySabre]

Find an old fashioned independent plumbing supplies place. These kind of shops seem to have all sorts of stuff squirreled away.

 

[pvb]

But boats frequently have the pumps switched off, which is when the rot sets in.

Really? If the pump is switched off, there's not going to be a serious leak.

 

[lw395]

Really? If the pump is switched off, there's not going to be a serious leak.

The fact is that the tap has failed in a year.
Maybe it was attacked by tap washer fairies. Maybe it just isn't the right thing.

 

[pvb]

Maybe it was attacked by tap washer fairies.

Yes, I'm sure that's a logical conclusion....

 

[RichardS]

The cartridges look like those in my boat taps. Penguin Engineering supply mine but I didn't buy new ones but stripped the old ones down and applied silicon grease and they've been fine for the last 4 years.

The pipes are standard domestic Pushfit like mine. The trick with Pushfits is to hold the fitting with one hand and then, whilst holding the fitting, pull down on the grey collar with the thumb and forefinger of the same hand so that it retracts into the fitting. Then, whilst it is held in, hold the pipe with the other hand, push that towards the grey collar as if you were inserting it. This will loosen the jaws and then you can immediately pull the pipe out of the fitting whilst still holding the collar in.

If it doesn't pull out easily it's because you have either not pushed the grey collar in far enough or you have not done the initial push in to release the jaws. It's usually the "push in to release" that people forget.

When inserting the pipe just push it in. The trick here is to make sure that you push it all the way home or it will start to leak. I usually mark mine with a pencil or felt pen against the collar before I pull them out so you can be 100% sure that you replace it all the way home. It is is easy to misjudge just how far they have to go in.

Richard

 

[Skylark]

Thanks, Richard,

Penguin have been helpful, they have supplied 2 different replacement cartridges but neither fit. The tap is made by Barka, Italy. These guys appears to be saying that mine is no longer available, seems very odd.

Thanks also for the guidance as to how the push fittings are removed.