Replacement Rubbing Strake For Early Orkney Longliner

[HarryFlashman]

Hi,
My name is Morgan, from near Welshpool in Mid Wales. Always been interested in boats and this year obtained a very sorry looking Longliner, but fortunately with a sound hull.

I found my way to this interesting forum when looking into sourcing a replacement rubbing strake for an early 16ft Orkney Longliner. I was hoping to buy one direct from Orkney, but on closer inspection the factory strake they sell, is designed to fit over a lip, where the top and bottom sections of the boat meet.

My boat is definately a Longliner, but does not have this lip - instead it has a cutaway into the hull. I don't think the lip has been ground away by a previous owner. Scanning the net for Longliner images I have seen another like this too. Mine currently has a rotten wooden strake - perhaps I should just go for another wooden strake ?

If I use a commercial aftermarket Pvc or rubber strake, will any of these bend around the bow and the transom corner, without having to use end caps - as these are quite pricey and it would look a smarter job.

If I go for wood - what would you recommend - I might be able to get hold of some Western Red Cedar - or would you suggest a hardwood. I would have thought it needs to be about 50mm wide, but how thick would you go ?

Many Thanks

 

[Tranona]

www.wilks.co.uk for rubber and plastic rubbing strakes. Biggest supplier in UK and supply most boat builders. You should find a suitable section there.

For wood best is teak, second best iroko. Western red cedar not suitable as too soft. www.kjhowells.com have 50*22mm machined rubbing strake in teak. Not cheap.

 

[lw395]

Is this a 'working boat' rubbing strake that is there to get rubbed? Or is it a bit of flashy brightwork on a pleasure boat?
Working rubbing strakes are there to get rubbed, and to protect anything else. A lot to be said for using fairly cheap timber and not being too precious about it, if your boat is going to have an active life.
OTOH a good job done in nice hardwood will look nice for as long as you look after it.

Regarding size, you probably don't want to add too much weight or spend silly amounts on wood. Thinner wood will bend more easily.
When you say '50mm wide' did you mean projecting from the hull 50mm or 50mm in the vertical dimension?
More projection from the hull is more protection for the hull, but needs more strength, which comes from height.

 

[HarryFlashman]

Is this a 'working boat' rubbing strake that is there to get rubbed? Or is it a bit of flashy brightwork on a pleasure boat?
Working rubbing strakes are there to get rubbed, and to protect anything else. A lot to be said for using fairly cheap timber and not being too precious about it, if your boat is going to have an active life.
OTOH a good job done in nice hardwood will look nice for as long as you look after it.

Regarding size, you probably don't want to add too much weight or spend silly amounts on wood. Thinner wood will bend more easily.
When you say '50mm wide' did you mean projecting from the hull 50mm or 50mm in the vertical dimension?
More projection from the hull is more protection for the hull, but needs more strength, which comes from height.

Hi,
Thank you for the replies. Its a working boat which no doubt will receive its fair share of hammer.
The existing one is 50mm in the vertical dimension and about 20mm deep. Quality needs to be such that you wouldn't need to keep drilling holes in the hull every few years.

I was wondering about western red cedar, as have used it for construction in the past and it has a straight grain and bends readily. Thought you go thicker with it. What I don't want to be doing is buying an expensive bit of hardwood and then damaging it fitting it, as would imagine you might need a professional steaming device to bend teak.

I see on the excellent Aran boats website, they use a rubber or pvc strake, but have cappings that go round the bow and transom corners - which is a much smarter job - but I can't find these for sale anywhere - does anyone happen to know of a supplier >

Best Regards

 

[Aja]

I would also look at http://https://www.coh-baines.co.uk COH-Baines website. They do all manner of rubbing strips, sell by the metre and are very helpful if contacted direct. Check their hollow 'd' section rubber which I think would be suitable.

Regards
Donald

 

[Seajet]

There are some very handy - new - plastic / rubber rubbing strakes on E-bay; I found the ideal stuff for my boat there when all normal suppliers like Wilkes could not supply it.

 

[Tranona]

Hi,
Thank you for the replies. Its a working boat which no doubt will receive its fair share of hammer.
The existing one is 50mm in the vertical dimension and about 20mm deep. Quality needs to be such that you wouldn't need to keep drilling holes in the hull every few years.

I was wondering about western red cedar, as have used it for construction in the past and it has a straight grain and bends readily. Thought you go thicker with it. What I don't want to be doing is buying an expensive bit of hardwood and then damaging it fitting it, as would imagine you might need a professional steaming device to bend teak.

I see on the excellent Aran boats website, they use a rubber or pvc strake, but have cappings that go round the bow and transom corners - which is a much smarter job - but I can't find these for sale anywhere - does anyone happen to know of a supplier >

Best Regards

Have you tried Wilks that I suggested earlier? They would have supplied Orkney originally and have all the fittings for end caps etc. They will probably know the section they originally supplied.

If you want to go teak then the section from Howells that I suggested will probably bend without too much steaming. 22mm is not that thick. As I said Cedar is not good if you expect it to stand up to fending off. It may bend easily and is durable but is very soft, dents easily and won't withstand any scuffing. So pretty useless for the job (but excellent for other uses!).