Replacement masthead light

Regarding the cable size

If I am reading the electrical installation instructions correctly they seen to advise using cable which is 8 to 10 mm diameter

TRICOLOR “QUICFITS”, COMB. TRICOLOR / ANCHOR “QUICFITS”, MASTHEAD “QUICFITS”, COMB. MASTHEAD / ANCHOR “QUICFITS” The electrical connection of these lights is only made in the “quicfits” base. Use round cable of about 8- 10mm dia. with adequate cross-section. Loosen the cable clamp. Dismantle about 35mm of the cable according to ill. (9) Feed cable through cable entry and cable clamp parts. Arrange electrical connection according to ill. (5) and fasten cable clamp with two screws. The installation should be done according to this instruction in order to ensure a watertight closure of the cable gland. Electrical connection of light and “quicfits” base is obtained by pushing the light onto the

Presumably to suit the cable entry gland ??

3 core Ocean flex 1.5mm² is smaller than this . 5.9mm according to FR
 
skipmac said:
Of course you know that LEDs only conduct in one direction. So tie the leads of the Aquasignal together but reversed IE red to anchor light tied to black of nav light, etc. Then feed the light with one 12V supply but use a DPDT switch to reverse polarity of the power to the masthead. So one way the anchor light works and the nav light doesn't. Reverse power and the nav light works, the anchor is off.
Click to expand...
That’s how NASA do their tri white.
 
VicS said:
Regarding the cable size

If I am reading the electrical installation instructions correctly they seen to advise using cable which is 8 to 10 mm diameter

TRICOLOR “QUICFITS”, COMB. TRICOLOR / ANCHOR “QUICFITS”, MASTHEAD “QUICFITS”, COMB. MASTHEAD / ANCHOR “QUICFITS” The electrical connection of these lights is only made in the “quicfits” base. Use round cable of about 8- 10mm dia. with adequate cross-section. Loosen the cable clamp. Dismantle about 35mm of the cable according to ill. (9) Feed cable through cable entry and cable clamp parts. Arrange electrical connection according to ill. (5) and fasten cable clamp with two screws. The installation should be done according to this instruction in order to ensure a watertight closure of the cable gland. Electrical connection of light and “quicfits” base is obtained by pushing the light onto the

Presumably to suit the cable entry gland ??

3 core Ocean flex 1.5mm² is smaller than this . 5.9mm according to FR
Click to expand...

I suppose looking up the installation instructions for everything and cross referencing them against any advise in the thread is better than watching soaps on TV, but only just.

So, what's you solution then ?
 
VicS said:
Regarding the cable size

If I am reading the electrical installation instructions correctly they seen to advise using cable which is 8 to 10 mm diameter

TRICOLOR “QUICFITS”, COMB. TRICOLOR / ANCHOR “QUICFITS”, MASTHEAD “QUICFITS”, COMB. MASTHEAD / ANCHOR “QUICFITS” The electrical connection of these lights is only made in the “quicfits” base. Use round cable of about 8- 10mm dia. with adequate cross-section. Loosen the cable clamp. Dismantle about 35mm of the cable according to ill. (9) Feed cable through cable entry and cable clamp parts. Arrange electrical connection according to ill. (5) and fasten cable clamp with two screws. The installation should be done according to this instruction in order to ensure a watertight closure of the cable gland. Electrical connection of light and “quicfits” base is obtained by pushing the light onto the

Presumably to suit the cable entry gland ??

3 core Ocean flex 1.5mm² is smaller than this . 5.9mm according to FR
Click to expand...
Good spot....I missed that as the font on the instructions is so small.
 
skipmac said:
Here's the wiring logic. In practice there are a few ways to do this. Use a 3-way crimp in the 12V DC +/- feeds to the switch to make Ys to the switch OR use short jumpers between the connectors on the switch. The one I used has male spade connectors so crimped two jumpers with two female spades to wire the DC. Also use a three position switch with
Click to expand...
Have you read the installation instructions ?

I don't think your suggested wiring scheme
1612399027082.png
can be used with the Aquasignal 34 because the lantern is pre-wired and sealed with pins that plug into the terminal block in the base.
ITYWF that you are presented with terminals for a common negative and two positive connections.
 
mrangry said:
I have purchased an Aqua signal 34 masthead tri colour and anchor light to replace the old existing unit when the mast comes down next week. Whilst down I also intend to run a new tinned 3 core cable, but in a quandary over cable sizing for this job. The cable run from battery to masthead is around 26 metres, the lamp unit is rated at 1.5 watts and the boat`s dc voltage is 12v. I have had a search online but seem to be having a mental block on working this out.....any input appreciated.
Click to expand...

Just for the hell of it then

( Taking the power consumption as 1.9 watts because thats what I have read in the instruction leaflet

1.9W at 12 volts is 0.16amps

Take the usual 3% permissible volts drop as a basis for calculation
3% of 12 volts is 0,36 volt

It will take 0.36 / 0.16 = 2.25 ohms, to cause this much volts drop

You total wiring length, positive + negative, is 52 metres
If 52 metres has a resistance of 2.25 ohms the resistance per 1000 metres is 2.25 x 1000 / 52 = 43 ohms /1000m

43 ohms/ 1000m lies between AWG 22 ( 0.33mm² ) and AWG 20 ( 0.50 mm² ) in the table I refer to
0.5mm² cable is 3 amp

Conclusion any sensible size of cable will be more than adequate for the current of your new lamp.
 
There are a million voltage drop tables on the internet or even as apps on your phone, the one at 12v Planet is a particularly nice one for us: Cable sizing and selection 12 volt planet

Fill the fields in and you have your answer in a second, no need for the ridiculous calculations above, 1.5mm cable gives a voltage drop of 0.883%

It is worth noting that current regs, the current ISO and good practice dictate that we use a minimum of 1mm cable, for robustness. Personally, i don't use anything less than 1.5mm. That's a very convenient size as it will probably do about 2/3rds of the low current wiring on the typical boat, with 2.5mm doing most of the rest. There is usually some 4mm/6mm/10mm, plus the usual battery cables, but for anyone doing DIY wiring on their boat some rolls of 1.5mm and 2.5 mm will do almost everything and it's cheaper to buy by the roll.
 
VicS said:
Have you read the installation instructions ?

I don't think your suggested wiring scheme
View attachment 108506
can be used with the Aquasignal 34 because the lantern is pre-wired and sealed with pins that plug into the terminal block in the base.
ITYWF that you are presented with terminals for a common negative and two positive connections.
Click to expand...
Don't have an Aquasignal 34 and the short bit of instructions I saw on this thread I didn't notice a mention of sealed with a common ground. If that is the case then clearly this technique in inapplicable. As noted in my first post, it requires cross wiring the leads to both lights.
 
pvb said:
You're replying to, and quoting, my post which said "Few electrical factors in the UK sell 3-core tinned cable." Furneaux Riddall aren't a "local electrical factor", they're a marine/leisure specialist.
Click to expand...

Ok now I'm back from traveling and sailing I again don't see the issue or are you just trying to prove a point

To be frank my dear I just don't give a dam. ( as the quote goes ) and your comments are just like the film it comes from ( gone with the wind).

It just shows that if Furneaux Riddall are a marine/leisure specialist may still be over priced ad most marine specialist are generally these days.

This is where the PRACTRICAL in the PBO is for finding and making buying a suitable produce for the job.

I avoided buying from marine specialist when ever I can and try to recommend the same where possible no being a cheque book sailor.
 
Rogershaw said:
Ok now I'm back from traveling and sailing I again don't see the issue or are you just trying to prove a point

To be frank my dear I just don't give a dam. ( as the quote goes ) and your comments are just like the film it comes from ( gone with the wind).

It just shows that if Furneaux Riddall are a marine/leisure specialist may still be over priced ad most marine specialist are generally these days.

This is where the PRACTRICAL in the PBO is for finding and making buying a suitable produce for the job.

I avoided buying from marine specialist when ever I can and try to recommend the same where possible no being a cheque book sailor.
Click to expand...

Welcome back! Your post is a bit confusing as you actually suggested buying from Furneaux Riddall... :rolleyes:
 
pvb said:
Welcome back! Your post is a bit confusing as you actually suggested buying from Furneaux Riddall... :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Yes I did as Furneaux Riddal were the cheapest of the internet suppliers. That is not tp say there could be other cheaper suppliers who only sell direct or don't have an extensive internet presence.

RS Components is another potential supplier with an internet presence. I have not checked if RS do supply or at what cost.

To me a supplier is just that and as long as he has the product I need at an acceptable price I just don't care how that supplier or any one else classifies them selves.

Again I don't really give a dam about you input as I was really making suggestions to the OP and NOT YOU.
 
pvb said:
So only the OP should respond to you? I'm not sure you've fully grasped this internet forum idea...
Click to expand...

That is not what I said you again put you own misinterpretations on what I say in an attempt to discredit me.

I said " I was really making suggestions to the OP " Any one can make constructive suggestions but I have no interest in yours as they are just no constructive in my view.
 
Rogershaw said:
That is not what I said you again put you own misinterpretations on what I say in an attempt to discredit me.

I said " I was really making suggestions to the OP " Any one can make constructive suggestions but I have no interest in yours as they are just no constructive in my view.
Click to expand...

Now that's much more polite! Still rude, but not as offensive as your reply yesterday which the moderators deleted. ;)
 
pvb said:
Now that's much more polite! Still rude, but not as offensive as your reply yesterday which the moderators deleted. ;)
Click to expand...



So it was you who reported. You have this talent to aggravating people you disagree with. I still think you act as a troll where I am concerned.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top