Replacement Engine Queries

gavin400

Well-Known Member
Joined
25 Aug 2009
Messages
426
Visit site
Am considering a replacement engine,

If the new engine turns in the opposite direction from the current one, would I need a new prop shaft?

Has anyone had any experience with MP engines?
 
Am considering a replacement engine,

If the new engine turns in the opposite direction from the current one, would I need a new prop shaft?

Has anyone had any experience with MP engines?

if you re engine you will almost certainly need a new shaft & prop + alter engine beds ( unless you have a beta engine who may be able to fabricate mountings).
the exhaust might be different as well may be the raw water intake size / position.
add a few £100s on for miscellaneous items
 
You won't necessarily need a new shaft, but you will need a new prop. However, the shaft may need replacing if it is old, and in the whole scheme of things is not a big expense, as you will discover when you do the sums.

Never heard of MP engines. Do you have a link?
 
You won't necessarily need a new shaft, but you will need a new prop. However, the shaft may need replacing if it is old, and in the whole scheme of things is not a big expense, as you will discover when you do the sums.

Never heard of MP engines. Do you have a link?
Looks like those Chinese engines again that Black Kipper nearly bought

http://marine-power-solutions.com/
 
When you do the sums, the base engine is about 65-70% of the total cost - less if you pay somebody to do it. Those engines are about £500 cheaper than the very well established competitors who have strong dealer networks and a good track record. You also get much more choice of equipment and gearbox ratios with the usual Beta and Nanni offerings. Hard work trying to break into the market here with an inknown product against strong opposition.
 
If you are going to replace the engine it makes sense to replace all the associated hard to get at bits whilst it's out like Sailorman says.
 
To stir it a little a few years ago it crossed my mind to import some of these engines long before the current importers thoght about it.For the 40hp model I was quoted by the manufacturer aprox.£1200 per unit delivered to Shanghai Docks for shipping.
They appear to be a well put together engine which if you can arrange your own shipping plus about 23%VAT and import duty is not a bad deal.
 
I re engined last winter.

I changed the prop shaft, prop and cutlass bearing while I was about it. The prop shaft is around £80-100, cutlass bearing around £40 so it's not a lot in the grand scheme of things.
 
To stir it a little a few years ago it crossed my mind to import some of these engines long before the current importers thoght about it.For the 40hp model I was quoted by the manufacturer aprox.£1200 per unit delivered to Shanghai Docks for shipping.
They appear to be a well put together engine which if you can arrange your own shipping plus about 23%VAT and import duty is not a bad deal.

Surely the potential drawback only surfaces a few years down the line, when spare parts might be needed? With Volvo Penta, Yanmar, etc, you can get parts rapidly almost anywhere in the world.
 
I replaced my old MD1b engine with the newer MD2010a 2 cylinder 7.5KW and have been very pleased with the unit. The only mechanical failing being the c--p engine hours register on the new instrument panel showing oil pressure water temp and rpm.
We fitted it ourselves and found it straightforward and saved a good few quid doing so. The first step was to get the old engine out and obtain the dimensions for the engine mounts,making up two new engine bearers with angle iron 3" 'L' shape and 6mm thick. The newer engine was smaller in dimensions than the original and more accessible too for oil changes and raw water cooling pump. We changed the cutless bearing and overhauled the sterngear as the new shaft was 25mm not a 1"diameter.
A new propellor was also obtained from Hamble Propellors to match the higher revs and gear ratio of the new gearbox(2.35 to 1) A new raw water strainer fitted gave good access for regular checking.
The engine noise and smoothness was greatly improved.
Doing the installation ourselves saved several pounds and was pretty straight forward, however, some items mounted on the starboard side of the engine compartment had to be re-routed to the port side and fuel lines modified. We fitted new exhaust hoses and water traps(Vetus) also paying particular attention to water level for efficient pumping of raw water for cooling. A mix of 50/50 antifreeze with distilled water was used for the heat exchanger. The engine cost almost £3500 6 years ago, so around £4500 with prop and shaft and cutless bearing and packing,and water filter. I got £800 for my old engine that was not working.
Plenty of Volvo 2010 sources for equivalent spares filters etc on the web at a fraction of Volvo agency prices.

ianat182
 
Last edited:
Top