Replacement clutches

[Channel Sailor]

Approx 22 squ metre each Genoa and mainsail, 28 ft yacht, club racing. My old XA halyard clutches are completely worn out. Currently on 10mm cruiser dyneema but might swap to 8mm Sk78 or similar. Should I go for XAS or XTS? The theory says XAS would do the job. But I suspect there could more to it that just what one reads in the specifications.

 

[PetiteFleur]

I like Lewmar clutches as they don't damage the rope as much as others. PBO did a test some time ago and Lewmar clutches came out on top. You would have to check if dyneema ropes are OK, as all my ropes are double braided polyester.

 

[Channel Sailor]

I fitted the XAS in the end. One of many reasons being the bolt holes are the same place so it was easy to replace. I played safe with the halyard and chose a 10mm Marlow D2 club for the genoa and kept the recent 10mm Liros Dynamic Plus for the main halyard. I plan on both of them to stitch through the cover to the core for a short length where they each go through the clutches. Only enough stitching to try to hold the cover to the core but not too much that it stiffens up the line so that it does not crush nicely under clutch jaws. I am uncertain how effective the stitching will be to reduce cover to core slip. I also will continue to use bowlines instead of splices. I will try and remember to report back on how I get on.

 

[flaming]

I fitted the XAS in the end. One of many reasons being the bolt holes are the same place so it was easy to replace. I played safe with the halyard and chose a 10mm Marlow D2 club for the genoa and kept the recent 10mm Liros Dynamic Plus for the main halyard. I plan on both of them to stitch through the cover to the core for a short length where they each go through the clutches. Only enough stitching to try to hold the cover to the core but not too much that it stiffens up the line so that it does not crush nicely under clutch jaws. I am uncertain how effective the stitching will be to reduce cover to core slip. I also will continue to use bowlines instead of splices. I will try and remember to report back on how I get on.

Why bowlines?

 

[Channel Sailor]

Cheaper, easy to cut a few inches off the end (or reverse it) to move a wearer point, strength of the line not an issue with 10mm. So why not use a bowline. I have not mastered how to splice D2 club or Dynamic plus. I do not have to select a line from the larger stockist, then wait, then have to drive back to stockist to pick it up after the splice has been made. My crew can mostly tie a bowline reliably and if not then it is a good knot they should be able to tie reliably. Soft shackles are £10 unless I make then myself. If I had gone with 8mm then maybe a splice end probably would be wise. But with 8mm there was increased risk of the clutches slipping. d2 club has a slightly softer feel to it compared to the D2 Racing, so is easer on the hands and probably better in the clutches (grip v longevity of the jaws matters). Though my gut feel comparing to the D2 Racing to the D2 Club, it feels like Club could do with the core and outer being stitched were it is gripped on the clutch. I have D2 Racing on board already so I know what it is like to use, light, no stretch, hard on the hands and does not absorb water.

BTW, the genoa halyard is on a furler, it has a relatively short loose end on the blow line knot, it does not have to be undone very often, so I sticky tape the loose end of a bowline knot to the standing part this reduces the risk of it shaking undone until it jams itself tight, if I had a splice then the thicker part of the line would go into the mast turning block which possibly could be an issue I would have to check with 10mm, with 8mm this would not be an issue.

if I had to change foresails more often then maybe I would have a splice and a shackle (soft or SS captive depending on what the crew can get used to reliably).