Replacement Aluminium Water Tank for an S28

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The latest update is that the damage to tank is looking terminal, so I'm looking to source a replacement water tank for a Sealine S28.
Tank is 170litres.

Where would be a good starting point?

I'm awaiting a callback from BritBoatParts, and Oval Tanks in Poole seem to have been bought out.
 
Hi FP

I realise you have a leaking water tank but may I ask which part of it is leaking - there is a reason why I am asking may be able to help but no promises!
 
Hi FP

I realise you have a leaking water tank but may I ask which part of it is leaking - there is a reason why I am asking may be able to help but no promises!

The official verdict from my tame Aluminium welder was "This tank is knackered".
 
The official verdict from my tame Aluminium welder was "This tank is knackered".

knackered is an engineering term for many things though :rolleyes:

is it corroded, ripped, holed?

I'd be very impressed if a decent welder wouldn't be able to patch it up, or cut a piece and replace it. Of course don't know what costs would be involved in that...

cheers

V.
 
I understand that sort of wording!

Now I am afraid I have another question, regarding the type of leak, are we talking about pin prick holes or areas of corrosion giving thin metal?
 
Its a stupid design. they fit in a GRP Tray.. Good
Any leakage is contained.. Good
Condensation builds up in the tray, and eventually corrodes the tank from the outside.. Bad..
Try Whitland Engineering.. £315 00 They did one for me in 2010.. They make tanks for the dairy industry mainly
They did it from drawings that I made of my tank
01994 240442
 
Its a stupid design. they fit in a GRP Tray..

Almost, but not quite.
It looks as if the initial corrosion was from the inside, where the baffles are bonded to the tank plate. This minor leak has allowed some water to soak the squishy foam tape underneath, which then corroded the base.

I'm not sure why the bottom foam tape is needed at all (other than maybe 1 strip at the rear), as the tank is rigidly mounted by the side plates. If it wasn't for the tape, any leak would drip harmlessly into the bilge.
 
I understand that sort of wording!

Now I am afraid I have another question, regarding the type of leak, are we talking about pin prick holes or areas of corrosion giving thin metal?

There are two large strips of bubbling on the front face, and the bottom is "knackered"... major bubbling and thin metal, that turned into holes when rubbed down a bit.

.
 
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Almost, but not quite.
It looks as if the initial corrosion was from the inside, where the baffles are bonded to the tank plate. This minor leak has allowed some water to soak the squishy foam tape underneath, which then corroded the base.

I'm not sure why the bottom foam tape is needed at all (other than maybe 1 strip at the rear), as the tank is rigidly mounted by the side plates. If it wasn't for the tape, any leak would drip harmlessly into the bilge.

That's a curious design. Why would anyone use any kind of foam under a tank that's going to absorb and retain condensation etc? If the tank is sitting on a flat GRP surface (unsure of that bit as your comment about side plates suggest it could be suspended?) - then I would have thought that if you replace with similar metal tank, using semi-circular profiled rubber strips to stand on would be better? Same effect on vibration, rubbing etc but non-absorbent and minimal contact surface with the tank. (i.e flat edge to GRP and tank sat on the curved bit)
 
Tek tanks, it is.
Order taken by a very nice lady :)

Thanks to those that suggested Plastic: on reflection, it's a better material for the job.

I might have to get a replacement tank for our boat as well.. Wondering what they charged for a replacement tank.. Would you mind sharing? (PM if you prefer).. Thanks..
 
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