Replace Standing Rigging

This is such a wonderfully British phenomenon, no other nation have this '10 years and your rigging is doomed' culture. I crossed the Atlantic with my current 15 year old rigging and just beat into a force 8 for 8 hours with total confidence in it. The rigging on my last boat was 35 years old and it held fine through many a 7, 8 and even a 9.

I met a few boats who broke stays this year, only 1 of them had rigging over 10 years old.

Until I see some real data proving that the chances of rigging failure is significantly higher after 10 years I'm going to assume some insurance underwriter pulled it out of his arse and it stuck.
 
When you look at some modern production boats... I would put twice the diameter on inland lake sailor, actually did in old times. This may be a reason :p
 
I'm going to assume some insurance underwriter pulled it out of his arse and it stuck.

That's the point though. So far as I was concerned my rigging was still fine but it could have been anywhere between 10 and 35 years old. If I had to make a claim for a lost mast my insurance would almost certainly not have paid out because the rigging was an unknown quantity. I replaced it all so I should be good for another 10 years. I've just got to get past the first season to prove (to myself) that the new is as good as the old.
 
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When you look at some modern production boats... I would put twice the diameter on inland lake sailor, actually did in old times. This may be a reason :p

I knew a delightful Swiss who did just that with the Lac Geneve boat he'd brought down to the Med.
He also beefed up many other items on the boat.
He wondered why he had a constant problem with a leak from the top of his rudder tube.
He was such a delightful person that I didn't have the heart to tell him why it was.
Do you think I should have?
 
While my boat was out of the water this winter I asked my engineer (British) in Spain to get me a quote to replace the 24 year old standing rigging. He looked at me as if I was mad. "There's nothing wrong with it and you're not planning on any hard racing are you?" Apparently, no-one out there applies the "10 year" rule so I'll just keep an eye on it for now.
 
Many thanks for the very interesting replies. I think it is a lottery regarding the interval to replace rigging. I have read some articles on the web. There is the case of someone having 25 year old rigging and still going strong and then there is the case of rigging being replaced and failing in a very short time. The critical issue is knowing the state of the various components. The problem with this is that all the parts would need to be tested using radiography and the cost of this would not be viable. Examining the various parts may show aging , cracking etc., but not all the potential failures are visible. The circumstance of rigging failure are many and varied and even rigging in good order can fail in extreme weather. It is fair to say that the regular replacement is a simple solution for the insurers to guarantee the rig has been examined.

I am familiar with the problem of galling with stainless steel but over many years and a number of boats have never had the problem .. yes I know there is always the first time! I believe the solution is to keep the threads well oiled and checked at least once a season when adjusting the tension on the rigging. Having said that I think my choice of new rigging screws will be for Chrome on Bronze.
 
It's called 'galling' and it is very...er...galling. Usually, both items are write-offs. Aluminium-on-aluminium and titanium-on-titanium (you should be so lucky) are also prone to it. The use of anti-seize materials reduces, but can't eliminate, the possibility of galling. Careful cleaning of threads also helps.
See such as: http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=13
On an industrial contract we were advised by a metallurgist to use a product containing lanolin to prevent galling as we had had problems with stainless steel fixings 'locking up' before they were fully tightened and being impossible to shift either way. We used Boots hand cream with lanolin - lots of it - the local branch was surprised that our hairy arsed fitters took so much care of their hands!
 
This is such a wonderfully British phenomenon, no other nation have this '10 years and your rigging is doomed' culture. I crossed the Atlantic with my current 15 year old rigging and just beat into a force 8 for 8 hours with total confidence in it. The rigging on my last boat was 35 years old and it held fine through many a 7, 8 and even a 9.

I met a few boats who broke stays this year, only 1 of them had rigging over 10 years old.

Until I see some real data proving that the chances of rigging failure is significantly higher after 10 years I'm going to assume some insurance underwriter pulled it out of his arse and it stuck.
I assume there must be some data on age of rigging at failure - as you say it would be interesting to see it. The 10 year yardstick must have come from somewhere although there are so many other factors involved, number of times stressed, maximum stress achieved for example. However, age is a simple factor to quantify, the others are almost impossible. It's up to each boat owner to assess the amount of use the rigging has suffered and replace when he feels happy. If I were intending to cross an ocean, I personally would replace in advance of the first crossing - mid Atlantic you're a long way from a rigger!
 
I knew a delightful Swiss who did just that with the Lac Geneve boat he'd brought down to the Med.
He also beefed up many other items on the boat.
He wondered why he had a constant problem with a leak from the top of his rudder tube.
He was such a delightful person that I didn't have the heart to tell him why it was.
Do you think I should have?
Well, no point in making the rig stronger then hull :) - but then with small diameters rig better to replace it after those 10 years, this I had in mind. Probably this is also the point of insurers. Strongly built boats usually have also rigs that will last.
 
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to drift this slightly, I plan to re-rig and was wondering if cutting wire with a grinder would affect the integrity of the termination (Staloc) given that the wire tends to "blue" when cut like this. The grinder is so much easier than a hacksaw.
 
This is such a wonderfully British phenomenon, no other nation have this '10 years and your rigging is doomed' culture. I crossed the Atlantic with my current 15 year old rigging and just beat into a force 8 for 8 hours with total confidence in it. The rigging on my last boat was 35 years old and it held fine through many a 7, 8 and even a 9.
This isn't a British phenomenon. I've been having a look at the cruisers forum and sailors on there report the same guidelines all over the world - New Zealand and USA.
 
>He does not think it necessary to replace the bottle screws as they all seem to be in good condition.

I'd suggest you get them X-rayed to ensure they are in good condition, you can't see internal cracks. Losing a rig is expensive.
 
to drift this slightly, I plan to re-rig and was wondering if cutting wire with a grinder would affect the integrity of the termination (Staloc) given that the wire tends to "blue" when cut like this. The grinder is so much easier than a hacksaw.

Felco wire cutters are the best on the market and make a clean cut without making a mess of the cable end. Can't afford them, too costly.. well have you thought how you would clear away the wreckage if the mast comes down? I have always carried a set in the locker! Having used them to carry out the rigging of Staloc terminal fittings. it seems a good plan to have a set handy!
 
Hi Tim,
I am currently looking to re-rig my M38 and have just been quoted Euro 4300 + VAT (no less). I'd appreciate a few more details of your job. Please can you let me know:-
When it was done?
Did it include fitting the new rig or just supply?
If fitting, was the mast taken off?
Did it include new rigging screws?
And VAT?
 
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