Replace shift cable - KAD300

alt

alt

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I thought i'd start a new thread on this, as my previous thread 'Dead actuator' is specifically trying to find a UK seller of the actuator.

Next question... volvopaul mentioned I should change the shift cable too, and he's right!

Question is: Does the out-drive need to come off (bellows not due)? I have a KAD32 service manual, but not for KAD300 so have no idea where to start tackling this and whether it's a complicated job.

Also, I have no idea the length of the current cable. I'm not too sure if these were standard length (since they were only going to actuator)... is the sheath a standard length, I could then measure the length from sheath to the end of the cable. OR, if I pull the cable, is it likely to have part no / length on it?

Thanks all.
 
alt said:
I thought i'd start a new thread on this, as my previous thread 'Dead actuator' is specifically trying to find a UK seller of the actuator.

Next question... volvopaul mentioned I should change the shift cable too, and he's right!

Question is: Does the out-drive need to come off (bellows not due)? I have a KAD32 service manual, but not for KAD300 so have no idea where to start tackling this and whether it's a complicated job.

Also, I have no idea the length of the current cable. I'm not too sure if these were standard length (since they were only going to actuator)... is the sheath a standard length, I could then measure the length from sheath to the end of the cable. OR, if I pull the cable, is it likely to have part no / length on it?

Thanks all.
Click to expand...

It's almost identical to kad32 except you will probably have DP-G drive, cable should be marked with length, use teleflex 33c cable which are readily available (not supreme as wont fit through hole) can be fitted without removal of drive.
 
UPDATE: The cable came out no hassle once the obvious was done...
On outdrive: remove cotter pin, remove threaded head
Inside: Un-do everything.

Pulled out with ease.

The cable that came out is: 1140173 1.50M 0244
So 1.5m long and it's a brown cable. Anyone any ideas where I start shopping for a replacement? I'm paranoid i'll order a cable with in-correct attachments at the end (or are they standard?)

Finally, on re-assembly. I plan to lube up the black tube attached to the inside of the transom shield so it'll go down easier (ooh er!). Question is, when re-inserting to the out-drive, should I:
1) Remove the black gromites (if that's the right word... the black rubber shield at the end of the cables) before inserting to the black tube
2) Remove the black gomites before inserting to the out-drive
3) Neither

BTW, VolvoPaul was right as ever, there was resistance in the cable. So, thank you volvopaul as I wouldn't have thought of replacing the cable otherwise.
 
Hi Alt,

Did this once myself on a 290dp drive. trick is to use the old cable to pull the new on through. taped or a piece of string and a nut over the treaded bits.
Lubing the black tube is a good plan. Just had my to cables on the targa replaced last year as I was having issues with a fuse blowing on one of the actuators. Seems te be ok now.
 
scottie said:
33c is industry standard throttle and gear control cable which would make sense
Simple check is are both ends identical?
Click to expand...

From the pic they seem to be identical, but that's just a standard stock image on the chandler website, so was hoping to get confirmation!

rlw - I had to pull the old one out to check length, but I have a fish wire in there so hopefully that'll help along with lubing up the inside of the black pipe.
 
Not sure what's been answered or not but next time don't take out the old one before getting the new one, use the old one to pull the new one through the rubber stuff to the out drive and yes remove the rubber stuff on the cable or it will get stuck. Also make sure you sort of grease it all up, there are dry type anti friction stuff that works ok.
The xtreeme cabel was a huge improvement for me with 3.5 meter long cables and mechanical controls but might be overkill with the KAD300 and EDC and in general anyone with mechanical cables should change them at least every 10 years.
 
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I've ordered 2 x Teleflex 33c - hopefully they're the right fit (they're the correct length, anyway). I figured since I was replacing one, I may aswell replace the other while i'm at it.
 
OK so I did this yesterday. It was easy-peasy!

WARNING: The teleflex I got was 1.5m on the red shrouding/cover. My old cables were 1.5 from tip to tip. Meaning I had an extra 30cm of cable :( Panic stations started, thinking I couldn't move the actuators. I had a look in the engine bay and turns out I had loads of vertical space, and loads of spare electric cables. So, I just raised the actuators by about 20cm, job done. BUT, it was slow as space was tight and had to drill holes for the actuator mounts.

The cables themselves.... Once everything is un-done, just pop some watered down fairy liquid down the tube, and the old cables come out pretty easy. Before putting new cables in, again some fairy liquid and they slide down with ease.

Over-all, not a hard job, but a bit of a slow one (took most the afternoon)
 
Hi,

I know it is an old thread but I hope for your guidance as you have changed the shift cables.

You say 'WARNING: The teleflex I got was 1.5m on the red shrouding/cover. My old cables were 1.5 from tip to tip.'. The teleflex 33C is ordered in feet I see.... does it mean the correct order length is 4' (120cm red shrouding/ cover) PLUS the cable fittings of 15cm each end = 150cm ?
 
About Time said:
Hi,

I know it is an old thread but I hope for your guidance as you have changed the shift cables.

You say 'WARNING: The teleflex I got was 1.5m on the red shrouding/cover. My old cables were 1.5 from tip to tip.'. The teleflex 33C is ordered in feet I see.... does it mean the correct order length is 4' (120cm red shrouding/ cover) PLUS the cable fittings of 15cm each end = 150cm ?
Click to expand...

It's been 4 years so I have no clue, sorry I cannot be of more assistance.
 
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