Removing volvo MD11C flywheel

PembrokeshirePromise

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Just trying to do this - but having a spot of bother - not least probably as I'm not quite sure what I'm doing - and the photos in the workshop manual don't make it entirely clear - to me at least.

I've removed the 4 allen screws OK - there is a large (c. 2 inch nut in the centre - but with no room to get a socket round the edges (unless it was a very thin socket)

I also see the manual refers to puller 880478 which used 500Nm to remove the flywheel. Of course I don't have one of these...

I assume it locks into the 4 holes vacated by the allen screws and then pushes against the centre of the 2" hex nut to lever the whole thing off.

Does anyone know a way of achiveing this without the volvo magic tool - or am I stuck without it....

In which case anyoen know where I can beg, borrow, hire steal - or as a last resort buy one !

I'm just trying to prepare the engine to get it out of the boat - but am a little fearful that is rather tight on the exit with flywheel still attached.

Mnay Thanks
James
 
We have done quite a lot of work on the MD11 but not had to remove the flywheel. However it seems pretty staightforward in theory.

On ours the socket headed screws hold the pulley assembly for the alternator(I think), which is not shown in the workshop manual, but you are correct that the puller bolts on there once this is removed and the central nut removed

the manual says:

17. Bend out the lock washer and unscrew the central
nut. Pull off the flywheel using the puller
884078. Take care of the key. NOTE! The nut is
pulled using 500 Nm (50 kpm = 369 lbf.ft.)


The big problem is going to be undoing the central nut! It is that which is done up to 396 lb.ft. That is TIGHT! Somehow, and the manual does not say how, you will have to prevent the flywheel turning. You will need a very heavy duty socket set, 3/4" square drive I suggest, with lot of leverage. You will bend or break a 1/2" drive set.
Any puller that will bolt onto the flywheel will do once you get that centre nut undone. It may not need a lot of effort to pull the flyweel off. It does not appear to be on a taper. The flywheel is going to be very heavy so watch out for that.

As I said straightforward in theory but in practice nearly impossible.

If you do succeed please get back to us and tell us how you managed it. You never know the nut might not be as tight as it should be.

Picture 72 on p25 seems to show plenty of space around the cntral nut for a big socket but it looks a though it is being tightened with something special. You might have a job finding a torque wrench that goes up to that sort of torque.
 
Not an easy task I am afraid to say. The 500 Nm is referring to the torque to tighten up the nut and that is quite a torque.

I did this on my MD2B engine which is similar ot your MDIIC . As mentioned the main problem is stopping the flywheel turning. In my case I was able to fit some wooden blocks into the crankshaft area via the crankshaft inspection hatched.

I cannot remember if the flywheel is on a taper as it is about 12 years since I did this exercise. But I do recall having to borrow three legged puller.

You first need to get the two inch nut off. In my case I got it off with a standard 3/4" socket and a very long extension. I am sure I then had to use the puller to get the flywheel off the crankshaft but cannot be sure.

Having got it off, you will then be faced with getting back on and torqued back up. Again I my case I was able to get a suitable torque wrench (it was over 4 feet long) and two able bodied guys to hang on the end of the torque wrench with the crankshaft locked by wooden blocks as mentioned earlier.

If you cannot get a torque wrench then you need to some simple proportion such the weight appied is equal to 395 lbs feet. Say a 14 stone guy with his full weight on a two foot socket lever.

Perhaps time to look at alternatives!
 
Thank you both - as is suggested - perhaps time to look at alternatives.

A large hammer liberated the allternator pulley from the rest of the flywheel - it had all been painted in situ and I had wrongly assumed it was all one unit. Hopefully that combined with taking a few additional bits off the back of the engine will I hope just allow room to lift it out (the aim of the overall excercise). I think we now have almost 1cm to spare - fingers crossed.

The idea of trying to wield 4 foot torque wrench in the confines of the cabin - does not fill me with enthusiasm !
 
Incidentally I have a suitable 3/4" drive socket plus a 3/4 - 1/2" drive converter if you need it.

I seem to remember jamming a LARGE screwdriver into the teeth of the starter ring. And a 3-leg puller to get the flywheel off. But I did all that in the garage after getting the engine out & back home. Good Luck, Steve K
 
Have recently removed flywheel from my MD1B. Put a length of 2 x 2 timber thro the flywheel and jammed under sump. Then used 3/4 socket and 4 foot length of scaffold tube over the socket bar to undo the nut. It was tight!!! Used any ordinary 2 hole puller to pull flywheel from tapered shaft. You can hire pullers. Be careful to leave the nut on the shaft, loose, so the flywheel comes of in a controlled manner. It's heavy. Hope this helps, good luck.
 
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