Removing surface corrosion from stainless

sarabande

sarabande

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I have a number of fiddly stainless bits which have been in the boat store for a while, e.g.

6wCVrdm.jpg



What's the best product to restore them to (nearly) shiny, but more importantly, smoothly functional hinges, swivels, and pistons please ?

Toothpaste / sink cleaner / WD40, or that chandler's favourite, gold-impregnated clay, or ....?

TIA
 
I have used a product "Spotless Stainless" which is very good at removing superficial rust stains, especially around awkward edges. You just brush it on leave for 20 mins and wash off with water. Not cheap, but effective.
 
I use any metal polish I can get hold of. They all seem to work. I am coming to the end of a tube of 3Ms which is handy but I quite like the idea of a liquid wash-off product. Dismantling the parts before treatment gives a better cosmetic result with ordinary polishes.
 
I have some pickling solution here, it should be fine to use as not used it for a while, maybe 12 months, but it does leave a dull finish and needs to be buffed up. It buffs up easy though.

I will send you some if you want, just PM me your details, no charge ;)

It is what i used when i made my SS rails.

Wayne
 
Hi
A touch of inside info from a long past career in marine engineering.
Years ago, as a 4th, 3rd and 2nd engineer I used to take pride in overhauling the main engines diesel injectors by hand and insight.
I used to avoid the need for brand new injectors every 1000hrs by lapping in the plates and sealing surfaces. Used a compound comically and fondly known as rocket polish. More commonly known as a fine grit valve lapping compound. That will do the job.
 
I've heard that Bar keepers friend is very successful applied with a toothbrush. We used some kind of pickling paste on site but I can't remember the name of the product except that it was obtained from a welding supplies store.
 
Forum magic !

I dug o ut an ancient tin (20 years old at least) of Tcut and a manky toothbrush, and, lo ! one minute's polishing and already a major improvement not only in the surface but in the action of the piston.

kSyhVTe.jpg


I suspect there's a couple of hour's work ahead of me on all the other boaty bits.

Thanks everyone. :)
 
I've always used a solution of Oxalic Acid in a bucket - chuck all the bits in, leave overnight and then rinse in fresh water. All the bits of stainless come out shiny! (no effort)
 
waynes world said:
I have some pickling solution here, it should be fine to use as not used it for a while, maybe 12 months, but it does leave a dull finish and needs to be buffed up. It buffs up easy though.

I will send you some if you want, just PM me your details, no charge ;)

It is what i used when i made my SS rails.

Wayne
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ghostlymoron said:
We used some kind of pickling paste on site but I can't remember the name of the product except that it was obtained from a welding supplies store.
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Please be aware that pickling paste used to clean stainless steel post welding contains both Nitric Acid and Hydrofluoric Acid which is especially nasty stuff to get on your skin. Treat it with the utmost care.

I believe that there are pickling surface cleaners that do not contain this acid.

Info: http://www.hse.gov.uk/welding/post-weld-cleaning.htm
 
captainboo said:
Please be aware that pickling paste used to clean stainless steel post welding contains both Nitric Acid and Hydrofluoric Acid which is especially nasty stuff to get on your skin. Treat it with the utmost care.

I believe that there are pickling surface cleaners that do not contain this acid.

Info: http://www.hse.gov.uk/welding/post-weld-cleaning.htm
Click to expand...

I was astonished to read in YM a couple of years ago that a cleaning product they tested contained hydrofluoric acid. This is perhaps the nastiest chemical, as it burns into flesh and just keeps going. It has the highest PPE requirement in refineries and intensive training is required before staff can use it.
 
vyv_cox said:
I was astonished to read in YM a couple of years ago that a cleaning product they tested contained hydrofluoric acid. This is perhaps the nastiest chemical, as it burns into flesh and just keeps going. It has the highest PPE requirement in refineries and intensive training is required before staff can use it.
Click to expand...

Picked this up in a chandlers at Dunkirk last year:
http://www.accastillage-diffusion.com/catalog/500-ml,1198097.html#tabs-1
The major component is hydrofluoric acid.
 
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