Removing/Replacing 'orrible vinyl

greggron

greggron

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The original 70s dark blue vinyl is peeling off itself from the inside of my hull in the cabin. The real challenge is getting the remains of the black, crumbling foam backing off. It still seems to be stuck firmly to the inside of the hull and doesn't want to come off. Any ideas/tips to get back to a firm base so I can begin considering a replacement?

Second part, once successful in achieving above, what would you recommend as a replacement?

All help gratefully received as ever.
 
I used an angle grinder fitted with a wire cup brush. It is very messy, so you need overalls with a hood, a decent dust mask, and means that the boat has to be emptied. Leaves a nice clean surface if you want to stick carpet to and avoids the use of volatile stuff like petrol:eek: or acetone.

For the sides of the hull I used cheap carpet stuck with B&Q spray adhesive (supplemented with No More Nails on a few difficult bits). For overhead surfaces I used vinyl stuck to 3mm ply and mounted to bonded wooden blocks with stainless screws and cap covers.
 
For years I put up with bare GRP in my boat. The condensation was awful, meaning I had to sleep with the hatch open, and on my swinging mooring it was, of course, the perfect rain and wind scoop. Joy.

I used van lining and spray adhesive. The van lining is slightly stretchy, so there are remarkably few panels in my finished fore cabin. I fitted it myself in about half a day total, total cost about £50. Absolutely kicking myself for not having done it before! Excuse the fit of the horizontal panel under the foredeck, at the time it was only held in with 2 screws.

It is now just so much quieter, cosier, and totally condensation free even with the hatch closed.

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7313151702_1cf41b3ab5.jpg
 
One of the worst jobs going

I found that any powered tool generated enough heat to soften the old adhesive and make matters even worse therefore relied upon scraping by hand!

Hawke House http://www.hawkehouse.co.uk/default.asp sell what they describe as "face off discs" See " glue remover" in the side bar. But I think it may be the same as the thing I tried.

Re the replacement lining Look at Veltrim and Velsoft vehicle linings http://harrisonstrimsupplies.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=4&Itemid=5

Also note Hawke House offer a self adhesive carpet lining

.
 
Iain C said:
I used van lining and spray adhesive. The van lining is slightly stretchy, so there are remarkably few panels in my finished fore cabin. I fitted it myself in about half a day total, total cost about £50. Absolutely kicking myself for not having done it before! Excuse the fit of the horizontal panel under the foredeck, at the time it was only held in with 2 screws.
Click to expand...
Impressive job, well done.
 
VicS said:
Hawke House http://www.hawkehouse.co.uk/default.asp sell what they describe as "face off discs" See " glue remover" in the side bar. But I think it may be the same as the thing I tried.
Click to expand...
I'll second those discs from Hawkehouse. Wire cup brushes go blunt every so quickly, those discs really do the job. Trick is to not press too hard.

I found I needed the overalls, modified with bits of Velcro to keep the collar tight round the neck, head covering, goggles and mask. Afterwards have a cool shower first to rinse of the glass fibres. Starting with a hot shower opens the pores and the strands of glass stick in the open pores, the itchiness remains.
 
Our old Colvic has bare insides and we are going to cover ours with some acustic carpet from Amazon. Stuck on with carpet spray type glue as mentioned above.
A lot of the fishing boys use this as its made from nylon and cleans easily enough.......will post a few before and after pics when we start.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/10m-Black-A...AO/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1338545476&sr=8-21

I have seen this stuff after it was fitted and must say it looks good!
 
The face off disks are terrible when used on a drill (there is a special drill version). But do seem to work well enough.
I'd recommend the double sided closed cell foam at Hawke house. It works out similar cost t glue etc when tools and glue etc are taken into account.
Cheers
Dave
 
The face off disks are terrible when used on a drill (there is a special drill version)
Click to expand...
That was my trouble probably. I did not own an angle grinder so used the drill version of the disc.
I ran it at slow speed too most likely, when high speed might have been better.
 
I've been researching this, and read in an old thread on the subject someone reporting good results removing old foam liner backing using just a paint scraper (with the corners ground off to avoid gouging). He said it didn't remove every last trace of the foam/glue, but that wasn't necessary to achieve a good finish once recovered.

Without the benefit of actual experience of this job, I can imagine power tools causing more mess and aggro (and nasty particles) than they're worth.
 
I used rough sandpaper, 60 grit because that was what I had in there box. It worked well. Vacuumed frequently with a Vax as I went along. The old foam tended to fall away as heavy particles and land directly below. When I used the sander the foam was all over the place.

I used foam backed vinyl to replace the old foam backed vinyl. I understand that the new foam stuff is stable and won't fall apart when it ages, so they say. I used spray on glue from an aerosol can, on the surface and the foam and found it quite easy to apply in situ. The aerosol cans have special nozzles that allow the width of the spray of glue to be adjusted and also the direction relevant to the can's axis. This is a useful feature as turning the aerosol can on its side or upside down prevents the glue from ejecting. The ability to place the glue exactly where its needed is very easy, even overhead and right up to the edge with say, a varnished bulkhead.
 
I can't coment much on removing the old carp other than that a wire brush on a battery drill wored OK for me on our Centaur Head and hanging locker. it was only a 2' space.

Our forecabin has been redone in sort of coffee brown cord carpet, and my previous jag 25 was relined in light grey cord carpet, all I can say is "don't do it". It seems like a nice warm finish, but it lasts about 3 years before it gets manky through Mildew or leaks or contamination from touching it.

On a boat, what you need is something which is wipe clean and can be bleached/Miltoned, and that leaves you with Vinyl. Back it with closed cell if you like, or use the normal foam backed and accept the 15/20 yr life.
 
That's a very smart looking job. I need to do the roof of the head and fore-cabin in my boat and am putting it off because a) it's v awkward and b) attaching plywood boards means losing precious headroom, which is limited up there. So my question is, is that lining applied straight to the roof grp? It looks it.
Iain C said:
For years I put up with bare GRP in my boat. The condensation was awful, meaning I had to sleep with the hatch open, and on my swinging mooring it was, of course, the perfect rain and wind scoop. Joy.

I used van lining and spray adhesive. The van lining is slightly stretchy, so there are remarkably few panels in my finished fore cabin. I fitted it myself in about half a day total, total cost about £50. Absolutely kicking myself for not having done it before! Excuse the fit of the horizontal panel under the foredeck, at the time it was only held in with 2 screws.

It is now just so much quieter, cosier, and totally condensation free even with the hatch closed.

7313152584_28afb354f2.jpg


7313151702_1cf41b3ab5.jpg
Click to expand...
 
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