Markandvictoria
New Member
Brought a yacht, the prop shaft is a wreck, it needs removing, we have quotes for new shaft, but no idea where to start with getting it out!! Any help would be gratefully recieved
Removing propshaft from perkins 4108 with aquadrive
- Thread starter Markandvictoria
- Start date
yoda
Well-Known Member
All depends on which way it has to go. If you are lucky it will come out from the back but tue rudder can often be the problem. That said if it is all disconnected inside and the cutlass bearing removed it will often come out slightly to one side of the skeg / rudder. Of course getting the cutlass bearing out may also be difficult. Removal in 2 pieces (cut in 2) may be an option which then makes removing the cutlass bearing easy and then replace new shaft and cutlass bearing after. Of course it is all dependant on boat configuration. Pictures and or boat type will help us to help you!
Yoda
Yoda
yoda
Well-Known Member
Also forgot to say that you need to get the instructions from Halyard who make the Aquadrive on how to release the shaft and then do it up again when finished. Easy if you follow the instructions.
Yoda
Yoda
srm
Well-Known Member
On my aquadrive the shaft is held by a collar clamp at the back of the thrust bearing (which is bolted to a frame aft of the flexible couplings). Loosening the bolts in the collar will free the shaft and allow it to be pulled out. There are a number of models though, so yours may be different.
Markandvictoria
New Member
Thanks for all your responses, we have successfully got the Volvo seal off one end and will be eventually be replacing with a pss one. The end of the shaft attached to the aqua drive is proving the issue, cannot get the Allen bolts out, they are corroded. Have wd40d them etc, and still not coming loose, is there a knack to this at all?!
Keith-i
Well-Known Member
I don't know about the Aquadrive, but I have a competitors version in my boat. The shaft is held by friction with a pair of conical sleeves. The Allen bolts are torqued up and require quite a big of shifting to loosen. You then screw the Allen bolts into the adjacent holes which drives the two parts of the clamp apart to release it. In my version the bolts are meant to be lightly oiled on assembly so they shouldn't really seize in place.
Hadenough
Well-Known Member
WD40 is not good as a penetrating oil, you need something like Plusgas and then probably heat.
Honey
Well-Known Member
My Aquadrive was impossible to remove and in the end I cut the shaft to get it all out !!
Tranona
Well-Known Member
Not sure why you would want to replace the Volvo seal. Simple and will have an easy life in an installation like yours where there is no movement in the shaft other than rotating.
Markandvictoria
New Member
We have to replace the Volvo seal, with something than can be serviced whilst in the water. And the rubber was cracking etc! We have successfully got off 4 of the 6 bolts now but the other two seem to rounded out, assuming by the previous owners attempt to do this job! Any suggestions with the rounded out ones? Thanks again for everyone's advice!
Markandvictoria
New Member
That's what I'm afraid of!! 4 bolts out now...!
Tranona
Well-Known Member
What is it that you want to "service" when it is in the water? All the Volvo needs is grease once a year and possibly "burping" when first launched - this can be avoided by buying the Radice version which has a vent and easier greasing. Direct replacement for a Volvo and half the price of the type you are suggesting, which has no advantages in either function or maintenance.
yoda
Well-Known Member
Speak to Halyard but I suspect that a high quality 'easy out' and good quality drill is probably the only way forward. You may get away with driving in an oversize Allen key (best to use the ones fitted into a socket drive).
Yoda