Removing "pressed in" pin from rigging toggle

C

chrisclaydon

Active Member
Joined
31 Jan 2008
Messages
43
Visit site
I have some stainless rigging toggles where the pin is a tight fit in the eye and held in by friction only (this is a fairly standard system where rigging fittings come with the toggle ready attached). These are big - 19mm diameter pins.

I need to swap 2 toggles of different lengths, which means removing the pins and then reinserting them. I imagine they probably make these fittings by pressing a very cold pin into a very hot hole but now they are together I doubt I could create much heat differential. I could put the pins back in that way afterwards though.

Does anyone know the correct technique for doing this (preferably with only the basic tools I have on the boat)? I'm concerned that hammering it, even with a punch, might distort the pin and make it impossible to remove. It's such a tight fit that the tiniest distortion would be a problem. I guess some sort of hydraulic press might do it but I don't have one. Any suggestions?

Thanks!
 
If you can get access to a large engineering vice, you might be able to press it out using a short length of steel rod of slightly less diameter than the pin and a short length of thick-walled tubing to receive it.

But you have to be able to recognise when a job requires skills or equipment that you don't have. Then you have to pay someone who has to do it. This may be one such instance.
 
This doesn't sound like a suitable job for amateur improvisation.
If I succeeded in pressing out something like that I would be concerned of its security in future.
It might be very easyto damage the toggles and weaken them.
 
I'm not looking for an amateur improvisation, I asked if anyone knows the correct technique! I'm a competent professional and can do most basic rigging jobs. I just don't know the correct technique for this particular job having never done it, because usually these particular fittings come ready made so it's not often necessary. I'd like to know how a professional rigger would do it if they were working on site without their hydraulic press (assuming that's what they use in the workshop). There shouldn't be any job on the boat which i can't do myself in an emergency at sea offshore, I can't call a rigger then. I'm sure I could improvise something which would work but I'm asking here because I want to use the "correct" (accepted, standard, tried and tested) technique, which is probably also way easier. Thanks!
 
Last edited:
I think OP might realise the answer to his question is that there is no answer. In other words in professional circles they just replace the whole thing. ie once the pin is in it stays in. olewill
 
Possibly Chris would like to know how it is done professionally - and then he can decide if he has the skills (and equipment) to do it himself.

I'm sorry - I cannot help - but am intrigued (from an academic perspective).

Jonathan
 
Best ask the manufacturer then.
I'd say it probably wants a hydraulic press with the correct dies to press the pin cleanly.
But it's serious kit to take advice on from some random on a forum who could be talking at cross purposes.
 
Depending on how tight a fit the pin is you may be able to press it out using a heavy duty G clamp and 2 sockets. One with the inside sir of the socket a little larger than the pin diameter and the other with the outside diameter of the socket a little smaller than the pin.

It this arrangement won't shift it the a hydraulic press or hydraulic jack and a steel frame will be needed.

Or something like this

https://www.google.co.za/search?q=r...WX0ozcAhXID8AKHUCQAyoQsAQIQg&biw=1898&bih=920
 
chrisclaydon said:
I'm not looking for an amateur improvisation, I asked if anyone knows the correct technique! I'm a competent professional and can do most basic rigging jobs. I just don't know the correct technique for this particular job having never done it, because usually these particular fittings come ready made so it's not often necessary. I'd like to know how a professional rigger would do it if they were working on site without their hydraulic press (assuming that's what they use in the workshop). There shouldn't be any job on the boat which i can't do myself in an emergency at sea offshore, I can't call a rigger then. I'm sure I could improvise something which would work but I'm asking here because I want to use the "correct" (accepted, standard, tried and tested) technique, which is probably also way easier. Thanks!
Click to expand...

As a competent professional you will be aware that engineering fits come in different levels of tightness. At the tightest end, H7/u6 for example, the parts are designed never to come apart & the components will be destroyed before they do - think railway wheel to axle. You will have absolutely no chance of disassembling that kind of assembly at sea with G-clamps or a hammer. If you want to proceed contact the manufacturer & find out what specification the engineering fit was assembled to. That will give you a clue as to whether it's worth trying. I suspect it isn't.
 
Last edited:
thanks for the more constructive, if speculative, responses. I'm 99% sure these pins are designed to be removeable. You do not replace the whole stay just because the toggle fails. You just replace the toggle.
I worked with a rigger to overhaul a rig a few years ago and he identified a hairline crack in a toggle and did exactly that. In that case it was a huge toggle, pin about 32mm diameter, and he said something along the lines of "this is so big I'll have to do it in the workshop", so he took it off and I didn't see how it was done. The implication as I recall was that smaller ones could be done on site. I have found instructions saying soak it in oil then knock out with a wooden drift but the author is an amateur not a rigger. I was hoping there would be a rigger on the forum with a definitive answer, I won't be messing with it based on a speculative answer.

Roger's idea with the G cramp and sockets seems like it's worth a try though, doubtful it would work but unlikely to do any harm so I might give it a go on an old spare toggle first. I think Roger is on the right lines with the rod end remover link. I have a bearing puller but it's not quite right for this job, unfortunately where I am it's not easy to obtain tools or parts so I have to make do with what I've got.
 
Last edited:
19mm is big stuff for a yacht. My feeling if I had to do it at sea, would be to drill it out and replace it with a clearance clevis pin that could be held with a split pin. At that size, you will be well into hydraulic press territory and a rigger would have a portable kit.
As for soaking in oil and knocking out with a wooden drift, if that was possible, I would not have it anyway near a mast.
I have done rigging, but only up to 12mm and not using toggles with interference fit pins. In most cases, it is not the toggles or turnbuckles that fail, but the wire.

I suggest you carry some spares, so you don't have to try it.
 
Thanks guys. I had a go with a G cramp, the thread on it is too course to put enough pressure on. Cranked it up as hard as I could and applied some heat to the eye but to no avail. Also tried a small vice, the thread is fine enough but it's a toy, it bends before the thing moves. I guess I'm lacking the right tool for this on board, must require a proper vice or a portable hydraulic press as Downwest suggests. I think drilling out a 19mm stainless pin without damaging the surrounding eye would be virtually impossible without a precision bench drill and the price of a suitable 19mm drill bit would be prohibitive. Seems like finding/borrowing/building the right tool to press it out would be a better option.

This is only 12mm rigging, 19mm pins are standard for 12mm rigging. It's nothing unusual.

Agree a removeable clearance clevis pin would be a better option when reinstalling, shame they don't use them as standard but riggers do like to use stuff that only riggers can fix easily, keeps them in work!
 
Last edited:
Can you post a pic.

The toggle on my back stay has a pin held in with a small grub screw in the screw eye of the bottle screw. worth a check.
 
When I suggested drilling the pin out, I meant to go up from a pilot hole via several sizes to about 16mm which would weaken the pin's grip, without damaging the eye. Perhaps careful use of a hacksaw blade to cut a slot towards the surrounding metal, then tap out what's left of the shell.
Bearing in mind SS's tendency to pick up, even if you managed to push it out, the second time would not have such a tight fit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

zoidberg
Rigging Checklist
Replies
0
Views
124
zoidberg
zoidberg

Share this page

Top