Removing and rebedding windows etc

Hi
I removed and refurbished all the windows in my Konsort 3 years ago
Your windows look similar
Two man job to take out as they look like interscrews take a bundle of screw drivers that look about right as you need the biggest that fits as one or two will be a pig.
I would suggest that you take one out first of all and make the hole weather proof with polythene and gaffer tape.
You can the spend some time sourcing the correct rubber to fit inside the frame as this will need replacing if you want do the job properly, Trafalgar Yachts may have the correct ones, and sourcing correct size interscrews and you will have wrecked an number of the heads getting them off.
I would also consider replacing the acrylic whilst you are doing it (its amazing the difference it makes)
http://www.theplasticman.co.uk/index.php?gclid=CNT9tdu96soCFQtAGwodRYYD9w
laser cut new ones using an old one as a template
Clean off any sealant on hull and frames well before replacing
I used sikaflex 291 to bed mine (its a sealant don't use 292 its an adhesive)
I think the critical thing is to join each hole with an even bead of sealant and then put a ring around each hole, it probably does not matter what use if you do that.
Then refit windows and tighten up interscrews to get an even seal all the way round, remove excess and leave for a day. Once sealant has cured give each screw a 1/4 turn
Again putting the interscrews back is a two man job
Mine have been perfect ever since
 
Shearwater said:
Very timely ! I returned from my boat today with a note to rebed one window, did a search to find this discussion is currently live. My window is simply a sheet of tinted acrylic (Hunter Ranger 245) whereas I think OP's is metal framed. Does the advice re butyl or Scapa bedding tape to apply or is there a better alternative? My leaking window has been bodge repaired in the past with just a squeeze of goo which has decayed, so it's time for a proper job!! Thanks in advance .
Click to expand...

Yes, the advice about butyl tape still holds.
Here is my take on your situation, ie screwed on acrylic sheet. Mine have now done a couple of years and no signs of any leaks or other problems yet.
http://www.troppo.co.uk/odds/Flying%20Fox%20Windows.pdf
 
Very informative thread as I'm contemplating how to re bed my Marsh and Walters fixed glass side windows on a 1979 Westerly Conway. All four of them are dripping and it seems to enter from the now old and disintegrated rubber gasket between the glass and the metal frame.
Trafalgar yacht services said they have these gaskets in stock but I'm reading here in a different thread that these couldn't be fitted.
The rubber gaskets from Trafalgar are expensive and will take a while to ship and release, so I'm asking what do you think about alternatives to these gaskets.
Will butyl do the job between glass and metal frame as well? I will use butyl for the frame-hull sealing contact, probably outside as well as inside if required.
Will neoprene, cut to size and in the proper thickness, work?
Closed cell foam, with single sided adhesive, folded around the glass edge, do?
I wonder if any alternative to the 'original' rubber gasket worked for anyone else with these frames (aluminium? hybridy?).
Many thanks
 
I don't know what Marsh and Walters are like but i sealed mine successfully using pu40 for the glass to frame and butyl tape for frame to boat. Mine were aluminium h section frames.
 
+1 for Eagle Boat Windows. They resealed mine 2014 and I put them back in with some sort of grey double-sided foam tape which I got from the boatyard stores on yard advice (Halls yard Walton on the Naze) that "it's what the RNLI use for theirs" (half the yard staff are RNLI men). No leaks since even with some missing screws - s/s self tapers into grp sheared on removal. Thanks for the reference to milliput for hole filling.
Andy -Sadler 34
 
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